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Do you typically remove lock for cleaning?

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joe4702

32 Cal.
Joined
May 5, 2012
Messages
51
Reaction score
3
Location
San Diego, CA
Hi,

I just got my first BP rifle - a Lyman .54 Trade.

I've been shooting cap and ball revolvers for about 6 months and am used to doing a detail strip after every range session to get all the fouling out.

Just wondering if I need to remove the lock on the rifle after each range session? The Lyman manual doesn't mention it - just says to remove and clean the barrel. Seems like fouling shouldn't normally get under the lock plate, but I wanted to ask the experts.

Thanks,
Joe
 
junkman_01 said:
I have always removed and cleaned the lock from all my BP rifles and muskets.

Me too! It just takes a few minutes to scrub it under the faucet with a toothbrush and dish detergent, dry it with a paper towel then a hair dryer (or set it in the sun). After I finish cleaning barrel, spray lock with Ballistol, wipe off excess, and everything's good to go.
 
Most of the time I do. My reproduction Tryon .45 cal has the lock behind the breach and is far less subject to fouling than the standard Hawken or GPR design.
 
For me it depends on a couple of factors. Generally if I have the time I will remove the lock after every shoot. However, I don't always have the time so if I've not fired a whole lot of rounds out of it I do sometimes fudge and just squirt some Rem-oil into the lock area whilst the barrel is off. I've had this rifle for almost 2 decades and the lock still looks brand new inside so I don't think I've done her wrong.
 
I'm FAR from an expert, but I will add that I always remove the lock and clean it. I shoot a TC Hawken, so I just use a toothbrush and warm soapy water. Then it's clean, rinse in cold water and pat dry with soft cotten cloth. Then use my wifes hair dryer until it's thoroughly dry. Spray some G96 on it. Wipe off any excess and reinstall.
 
BrownBear said:
Yup. It's worth cleaning and lubing the innards as well as the hide, just for longer life and sure function.
+1
I shoot a bunch during the Rendezvous season, a BUNCH.
So I might not pull it after every session or shoot but they comes out frequently.
The idea is to know the condition of the lock and trigger and you can't do that without lookin, :wink:
It's only a few extra screws, so it's defenately worth doin
 
Well, I was afraid that's what everyone would say. :) Since it'll be 2 weeks before I shoot her again, guess I'd better get the TR back out of the safe and clean the lock. I'll also add that to my normal cleaning regimen as well. Thanks for the information even if it wasn't what I wanted to hear. :grin:
 
Good deal,
hang out for awhile Joe, you'll pick up a bunch of neat info.
You might be suprised how many guy's never ask what you just did then come back later with lock or ignition trouble and are shocked to find out they have to take the gun apart !!
 
I always clean my lock after shooting my rifle whether it is a caplock or flintlock. I use spray brake cleaner to remove the heavy crud first. Next, I use compressed air to blow it out. Then I spray WD-40 into the lock and blow it out with compressed air. Lastly, I apply a light coat of Barricade, replace the lock and am done with that part of the cleaning.
 
Thanks. Yep, I plan to stick around. I'm finiding BP shooting is satisfying and a lot of fun.

I just pulled the lock and sure enough found a little fouling had wormed it's way in there. Cleaned it up with a little Ballisol and water and finished with straight Ballistol. Took me a minute to realize I needed to push the trigger forward to allow the lock to seat correctly, but other than that it was cake. Overall much simpler than stripping and cleaning an 1851 Navy.
 
While you are cleaning the inside of the lock plate, look for rub marks on the plate, or bridle. Those indicate that something is not working right, and is causing drag to your lock's functions. Usually its only burrs on cast parts, but the parts should be removed and the burrs removed from the parts. When re-installed, you should see a bit of "daylight" between the plate and the moving parts. The parts should move FREELY when the springs are removed from the lock- NO RUBBING!

Make sure all screws are snug, but don't crush the threads trying to tighten screws more than that. Screws should not stick out past the outside surface of the lock plate. :hmm: :idunno: :doh: :wink:

I recommend that you put witness marks on the large head lock plate bolts that hold the plate in the stock to mark the position of the screw heads when the lock plate is properly positioned. Use an awl or scriber to mark the bottom of the screw slot, and the bolster/sideplate next to it in the stock. :hmm: :idunno:
 
necchi said:
Good deal,
hang out for awhile Joe, you'll pick up a bunch of neat info.
You might be suprised how many guy's never ask what you just did then come back later with lock or ignition trouble and are shocked to find out they have to take the gun apart !!

Guess i too just learned something new! Time to get the ole girl out and take care of this. I thought I did a pretty good job of getting my new to me rifle clean before the first time i took her to the range. Guess not.
 
joe4702 said:
Just wondering if I need to remove the lock on the rifle after each range session?

It could probably be argued whether or not a lock "NEEDS" to be removed/cleaned but I always do...even after only one shot while out deer hunting, I like to keep my MLs in showroom ready condition before I put them back in their case.

My approach is that if I put one away without a 100% cleaning job, then get an interest in shooting a different one for a few weeks, I don't want to risk forgetting to go back and deal with the first one.
IMO, there's never a better time to do a 100% cleaning job than while in the middle of the cleaning job and be completely done with it, but that's just me...
 
Dixie Flinter said:
junkman_01 said:
I have always removed and cleaned the lock from all my BP rifles and muskets.

Me too! It just takes a few minutes to scrub it under the faucet with a toothbrush and dish detergent, dry it with a paper towel then a hair dryer (or set it in the sun). After I finish cleaning barrel, spray lock with Ballistol, wipe off excess, and everything's good to go.

Except for the Ballistol, that is my technique.
 
On my percussion shotguns, I only remove the locks occasionally, and they have always been in good shape when I do. I then clean and re-lubricate.

It would appear that more than one method works.
 
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