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Disassembly of a T/C Renegade lock

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Left hand drill bits (cut in a counter-clockwise rotation) are wonderful for fasteners that have been over tightened in a blind hole and the head broken off. If the screw/bolt has the head broken off when one was trying to unscrew it (rusted/binding) they help but success is less likely. If you can get to the backside (bottom end of hole) drill with a right hand bit from the back side. Most drill presses will only run clockwise, use a smaller right-hand bit to drill a centered pilot hole then a left hand bit close to the minor diameter of the screw in a reversible drill. The pilot hole will allow the cutting edges of the left-hand bit to easily bite the broken screw, and when enough of the screw is removed to ease it's grip in the threaded hole , the lefty-loosey rotation will back the broken end out. Only press down hard enough for the drill to bite but still back out easily.
 
Left hand drill bits (cut in a counter-clockwise rotation) are wonderful for fasteners that have been over tightened in a blind hole and the head broken off. If the screw/bolt has the head broken off when one was trying to unscrew it (rusted/binding) they help but success is less likely. If you can get to the backside (bottom end of hole) drill with a right hand bit from the back side. Most drill presses will only run clockwise, use a smaller right-hand bit to drill a centered pilot hole then a left hand bit close to the minor diameter of the screw in a reversible drill. The pilot hole will allow the cutting edges of the left-hand bit to easily bite the broken screw, and when enough of the screw is removed to ease it's grip in the threaded hole , the lefty-loosey rotation will back the broken end out. Only press down hard enough for the drill to bite but still back out easily.
Thanks Ontario47. I'll have to give it a try when I can get to my drill press.
 
Well, that didn't work. The Gun Works only had a left-hand tumbler. Talked (e-mail) with Suzi and she is fixing me up with a Lyman Tumbler and a hammer screw (the tumbler is the same, but the Lyman Hammer screw is metric). We'll see what happens.

By the way, the left-hand drill bits didn't take the screw out. Just made the hole a little bigger :>)).
>> Jan <<
 
OK, Update. I sent back the left hand tumbler to gun works and they sent me a Lyman one that's supposed to work in the T/C. Long story shorter, it LOOKS the same, but the dimensions are a bit different. With the T/C tumbler, I found I could do just like the video as far as getting the mainspring in and out. Not so with the Lyman. I guess my old weak hands just aren't up to the task. :>(( I am currently trying to make the Lyman more closely resemble the T/C tumbler in dimensions. It's working, but I still can't get the mainspring back in with the needle-nose pliers yet like I could with the T/C.
 
OK, Update. I sent back the left hand tumbler to gun works and they sent me a Lyman one that's supposed to work in the T/C. Long story shorter, it LOOKS the same, but the dimensions are a bit different. With the T/C tumbler, I found I could do just like the video as far as getting the mainspring in and out. Not so with the Lyman. I guess my old weak hands just aren't up to the task. :>(( I am currently trying to make the Lyman more closely resemble the T/C tumbler in dimensions. It's working, but I still can't get the mainspring back in with the needle-nose pliers yet like I could with the T/C.

I’ve used Lyman tumblers in TC locks and they worked okay but took some doin’ to file the square shank down to get the hammer on.
 
Yep, had to do that too, except I filed the hammer instead of the tumbler. I figured since I couldn't get a T/C one anyway, it left more metal on the square shaft of the tumbler. I cut 2 coils off the mainspring and was then able to get the mainspring back in place. I also noticed that the diameter of the hole for the fly was larger on the Lyman tumbler, but now that it's back together, it seems to work alright.
 
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