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Disassembly of a T/C Renegade lock

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MTGUNNER

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Anyone have any suggestions on how to deal with the coil mainspring for taking the lock apart? I'm afraid I will have to do that if I want to get this thing fixed. It has a sheared-off hammer screw and I think I'm just making it worse by trying to drill it out.
>> Jan <<
 
Thanks so much Zonie, I really didn't think it would be THAT easy!!!

>> Jan <<
 
Any suggestions for getting the screw out of the tumbler after it has been sheared off and somewhat drilled out? I'm afraid I will TOTALLY bugger it up if I keep drilling on it.
>> Jan <<
 
Buy a new tumbler would probably be the best thing... if you can find one.

Place an add in the Classified’s here, someone probably has one lying around..
 
Welcome. You need to call them though and tell them what you want as everything is not listed in their catalog. Forgot to mention that. Good luck.

Dave
 
They had it listed. Ordered. Thanks again. (and it was almost half the price of one on ebay)
 
Any suggestions for getting the screw out of the tumbler after it has been sheared off and somewhat drilled out? I'm afraid I will TOTALLY bugger it up if I keep drilling on it.
>> Jan <<
You really need a drill press if you are not using one. A drill press will give you accuracy for dead on the screw and leverage to drill it out. If that does not work, you can soften the tumbler by heating to cherry red and let it room cool. Now, with the tumbler soft, you can drill a few thousands larger, removing the screw and some of the threads. You will then need to re tap to a larger size screw. The soft tumbler will need to be hardened and tempered. The boys here can tell you how to do that if that is the direction you go.
Flintlocklar🇺🇲
 
Yeah, I guess I need to clear a path to my drill press and try it that way. I now have the tumbler out of the lock (thanks, Zonie), so that should make it a bit easier. :>))
>> Jan <<
 
Sorry, I didn't even know they existed.
It's off topic but, left hand drill bits have been around for over 100 years. They drill holes when they are "run backwards".
The reason they exist is they are made to be used in multi-spindle drill machines that have many different drill bit's drilling holes close together all at the same time. In a gear train that provides the power for the drills, a gear that engages another gear turns in the opposite direction so if one gear is turning the right way, the next gear in the train will be turning backwards. In order to make this second gear useful, if the drill it is driving is a "left hand drill" it will work fine even though it's running backwards.
The only thing that's bad about left hand drill bits is, unless your buying from a major business that supplies big companies with cutting tools, they can be hard to find. Although some of them do, most local hardware stores won't have them and the sales clerk will give you that "deer in the headlight" look at you when you ask for one of them.
 
Harbor Freight sells a set of left hand bits. I've used them to remove broken bolts in automotive stuff. They work well and often the offending bolt or screw will come out as you are drilling it out. Of course you need a good reversible drill.
 
Thanks Zonie. Always learning. I saw those at Harbor Freight, Jake, and saw a lot of them on a search. I think I'll need a #42 bit.
>> Jan <<
 
Always had left hand drill bits in the tool box when I worked in the tool room. Major use was to ‘loan out’ when someone wanted to borrow a bit. Folks couldn’t figure out why it wouldn’t work for them. They could see they were sharp/brand new when they got them and were all messed up when they were done. Would look at them and the bit(s) until they offered to replace. They learned not to borrow stuff pretty quick. Only remember one guy figuring out what he had before starting to drill. He was a shop forman soon after finishing his apprenticeship.
 
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