Today I took my 58 Remington by Navy Arms out and fired it for the first time, (by me, it is a used gun) it fired 5 or 6, the cap went on the last one but no joy, I recapped the cylinder and fired again. Still no joy, the caps went as they should but it failed to set the main charge off. What is the best way to unload the cylinder that did not fire.
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Did not fire
- Thread starter larry58v
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Remove any caps. Remove cylinder. Run a ball screw in to them and pull out
In absence of a ball screw a wood screw can be used. You can pull it with a pair of players, they won’t have to take much force.
In absence of a ball screw a wood screw can be used. You can pull it with a pair of players, they won’t have to take much force.
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Poke a paper clip or something through the nipple to make sure the channel is clear, re-cap and try again. If that doesn’t work, unscrew the nipple and drop a small load of black powder in and try again. Or, unscrew the nipple, get an appropriate sized punch and push the ball out.
Ok, the method that worked is number 3, took the powder out as best I could after removing the nipple, then tried to used a screw (not very good at hitting the middle it seems) then took a number 1 easy out, reversed it and pushed the ball and felt pad out. Thanks for the help.. There was no way I could put more powder in the cylinder chamber but I guess I could have pulled part and tried a new cap. Instead I did the complete removal and weighed the charge, it was just .3 grains less than I installed to start, so I think that was spillage from the unload.
Larry
A drywall screw into the ball and a pair of pliers is all you need. Before you load for the first time at each session and after cleaning snap a cap on each chamber to burn out the oil and to dry it.
I'm sure you already did but I would suggest checking that particular nipple. Could have been clogged?
Either that or your powder got damp so kinda way.
Either that or your powder got damp so kinda way.
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BRASS OR ALUMINUM punch and do it with care. The best and safest way is uncap and pull the ball. Those nipple threads are very fine and can me mucked up resulting in a five shooter or the expensive purchase of a one time use metric tap.
I suggest a wood screw or a sheet rock screw and pliers.
Bunk
The Remington nipples enter the chamber from an angle and because of that it's very easy to strike the cylinder wall with the punch and possibly score it. It's better not to use a punch to drive the ball out. Colt nipples are in line with the cylinder bore and it isn't a problem there.
Last edited:
J.Campbell63
32 Cal
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I’ve had several over the years (nipples on cylinder) that weren’t bored through. My newest ‘58NMA had one that wasn’t. I always check after cleaning or after disassembly to be able to see light. My 2 cents.
Be safe have fun!
Be safe have fun!
What kind of powder are you using? With my ROA and Pyrodex I could not get ignition no way/no how. Stick with genuine black. Synthetics will cause trouble.
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I very likely don't have the same round count with my revolvers as you do with yours, but I have yet to have Pyrodex P, the easiest thing to get when I first got into black powder revolvers, fail to ignite.
I imagine that under a percussion cap, the stuff should be as reliable as holy black. From what I've been reading here, though, the stuff does have a tendency to absorb moisture more quickly than black powder, and it apparently can't be dried out as black powder can be.
So, it would seem that properly stored Pyrodex, ignited under a percussion cap, with mechanically sound components, should be just fine from a functionality standpoint.
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Same here. Pyrodex RS NEEDS some heat to ignite and some breech plug designs don’t seEm especially friendly towards the stuff. I can get hundred percent ignition from it with good fresh caps and a,VERY CLEAN fire channel unless it’s below zero or so. Then I will get hang-fires.
