I may have posted this before, if so I apologize.
Getting older and have accumulated way too many injuries from my youthful rough and tumble life, I can no longer drag a deer and would have trouble packing out the parts. Faced with the possibility of giving up hunting. I came up with another solution, I call it tongue and cheek my Deer Drag-A-Matic 2000.
I used a cheap eBay 2000# boat winch, 100ft of 3/4" mule tape, a couple of /3/4" nuts on the drive shaft and a 20V drill driver with two batteries to power it. I made a bracket to keep the winch spool off the tree. I have a strap to fasten it to a tree loosely so it can pull in the direction of the downed deer.
Before deer season I gave it a test, pulling all my lead collection and two cans of diesel up a hill, piece of cake. With the winch loose and a foot or so from the tree it is easy to swing it side to side on a pull to spool the mule tape back on evenly.
I pulled this buck out of a steep hollow with the Drag a couple of weeks ago and a huge doe (no pic, modern kill) out of a similar deep hollow yesterday all on one battery each. The land I hunt is often too steep to get a 4 wheeler into, my winch gets them to a point I can tie them off to the 4 wheeler.
If any of you other decrepit folk out there like me might need a little assistance recovering deer, here is the parts list I copied from one of my posts on another site. With my drill on low speed my contraption pulls a deer at about 1 ft every 3 seconds and will pull at least 150 ft up a steep hill on one battery.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2500LBS-2-GEAR-Hand-Winch-Hand-Crank- Gear-Tool-Fit-Heavy-Duty-ATV-Trailer-Boat/123338190729? hash=item1cb7876f89:g:8XYAAOSw3EpbhaCG
Mule tape, the winch will hold 100 ft easily but you have to spool it on under load because it stretches at first and won't go on right if you spool it on loose. Be sure to spool on the mule tape so drill will tighten the drive nuts instead of loosen them.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-4-x-100-2500-tensile-polyester-pull- tape-mule-tape-webbing/153299816092? hash=item23b1618e9c:g:zpMAAOSwEW9aVkyA:rk:2f:0
The metal and bolt I bought a Home Depot.The metal was a 1 1/4"X 3/16" piece about 3' long. I cut a piece to form the U to keep the winch spool off the tree. I got it uneven on my first try so I bent another piece and got it right the second time with the holes lining up with the spool shaft. You could do a bunch of variations on attaching the winch to a tree and not need the brackett. I was sure I needed the winch strapped tightly to the but found out that is not the case as it tightens itself to the tree when you start pulling.
The nuts for the crank are metric but have close to american threads. I don't remember the shaft size but a 3/4" head size fits just fine. I put one nut on the 2000 lb winch drive and added a second to have more surface area for the deep well socket to fit on. I had to file the inside of the second nut to get the flats to line up just right on both nuts.
I bought a grade 8 bolt 1/2" longer than the one used as the spool axle. I bought a nut as well so I didn't have to go metric.
I left the 600# drive empty and carry my crank handle and an extra nut in case I end up in a jammed position and need to unlock the winch one way or another.
Getting older and have accumulated way too many injuries from my youthful rough and tumble life, I can no longer drag a deer and would have trouble packing out the parts. Faced with the possibility of giving up hunting. I came up with another solution, I call it tongue and cheek my Deer Drag-A-Matic 2000.
I used a cheap eBay 2000# boat winch, 100ft of 3/4" mule tape, a couple of /3/4" nuts on the drive shaft and a 20V drill driver with two batteries to power it. I made a bracket to keep the winch spool off the tree. I have a strap to fasten it to a tree loosely so it can pull in the direction of the downed deer.
Before deer season I gave it a test, pulling all my lead collection and two cans of diesel up a hill, piece of cake. With the winch loose and a foot or so from the tree it is easy to swing it side to side on a pull to spool the mule tape back on evenly.
I pulled this buck out of a steep hollow with the Drag a couple of weeks ago and a huge doe (no pic, modern kill) out of a similar deep hollow yesterday all on one battery each. The land I hunt is often too steep to get a 4 wheeler into, my winch gets them to a point I can tie them off to the 4 wheeler.
If any of you other decrepit folk out there like me might need a little assistance recovering deer, here is the parts list I copied from one of my posts on another site. With my drill on low speed my contraption pulls a deer at about 1 ft every 3 seconds and will pull at least 150 ft up a steep hill on one battery.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2500LBS-2-GEAR-Hand-Winch-Hand-Crank- Gear-Tool-Fit-Heavy-Duty-ATV-Trailer-Boat/123338190729? hash=item1cb7876f89:g:8XYAAOSw3EpbhaCG
Mule tape, the winch will hold 100 ft easily but you have to spool it on under load because it stretches at first and won't go on right if you spool it on loose. Be sure to spool on the mule tape so drill will tighten the drive nuts instead of loosen them.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-4-x-100-2500-tensile-polyester-pull- tape-mule-tape-webbing/153299816092? hash=item23b1618e9c:g:zpMAAOSwEW9aVkyA:rk:2f:0
The metal and bolt I bought a Home Depot.The metal was a 1 1/4"X 3/16" piece about 3' long. I cut a piece to form the U to keep the winch spool off the tree. I got it uneven on my first try so I bent another piece and got it right the second time with the holes lining up with the spool shaft. You could do a bunch of variations on attaching the winch to a tree and not need the brackett. I was sure I needed the winch strapped tightly to the but found out that is not the case as it tightens itself to the tree when you start pulling.
The nuts for the crank are metric but have close to american threads. I don't remember the shaft size but a 3/4" head size fits just fine. I put one nut on the 2000 lb winch drive and added a second to have more surface area for the deep well socket to fit on. I had to file the inside of the second nut to get the flats to line up just right on both nuts.
I bought a grade 8 bolt 1/2" longer than the one used as the spool axle. I bought a nut as well so I didn't have to go metric.
I left the 600# drive empty and carry my crank handle and an extra nut in case I end up in a jammed position and need to unlock the winch one way or another.
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