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Decent nipples

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Scota@4570

54 Cal.
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I got a set of Track nipples for a Pedersoli 1858. They sere too soft. After about 200 shots the nipples were riveted enough that capping became a struggle. The top edges were distorted and uneven. I did not dry fire. I ruined one while filing the cone to the more correct contour.

Who makes quality replacement nipples, size 6mm x.75?
 
The Track of the Wolf nipples (stainless) I bought for my ROA almost a decade ago have been fantastic. And they were cheaper than Tressos (the savings about paid shipping).
 
Guessing the replacements were to long and got peened by the hammer. If setup correctly the hammer should NOT touch the nipple, just crush the percussion cap between it and the nipple. When I shot SASS I put untold numbers of rounds through my 58s. A lot of things broke, however, the nipples were the least of my worries and typically only needed replacement when one was lost.
 
Sounds like I need to do some work. All of the nipples, the original ones, hold the hammer up to varying degrees. Sounds like I need to make a piloted reamer to correct the nipple seats to be the same for all. Next modify the hammer face to just clear the nipples.

Question? How much clearance is the goal between the hammer face and the nipples?

Thanks,
Scot
 
If you get the proper per the gun nipple you shouldn't have to do anything. Brfore you do any alterations tell TOW what happened with the pertenant gun info and I'm sure they can fix you up.
 
Sounds like I need to do some work. All of the nipples, the original ones, hold the hammer up to varying degrees. Sounds like I need to make a piloted reamer to correct the nipple seats to be the same for all. Next modify the hammer face to just clear the nipples.

Question? How much clearance is the goal between the hammer face and the nipples?

Thanks,
Scot
I’d be talking to Pedersoli. None of that is right. The depth of the countersink for the nipples should be the same within a thousandth or so, and the nipples should not make contact with the hammer face. The Pedersoli is supposed to be one of the best Remington repops available. Not a kit gun.
 
I mis-spoke, it is a pietta. IT is an older gun. I own it, I need to fix it.

The original factory nipples are much harder that the track ones. I trimmed them down to be the same but shorter protrusion. They all held the hammer up too. They also varied by 0.040" on the amount they stick up above the seat.

Can anyone tell me how to measure the amount the hammer is being held up due to the nipple? I need to know this to trim to the correct length.
 
I've been using Butler-Creek nipples in a few revolvers over the years with nary a hitch. Right now there's a set in my ROA where they've been for the last five years - and this is a gun that gets shot maybe a hundred or more shots per month in guest days and with me.

AFAIR there are TWO distinct versions of the Pietta nipples, but right now I can't recall the details.
 
I just received a set of Track's regular steel nipples for a Pietta remington repro. I had called to order some other stuff along with the nipples and needed to visit with them about the other items. They also have stainless nipples. The staff person advised me the stainless nipples tended to be a bit softer than the steel nipples. I've had good luck with steel over the years so went with them. I have not had a chance to try them out yet. The old nipples had been buggered up by a previous owner and would not fire reliably.
 
I mis-spoke, it is a pietta. IT is an older gun. I own it, I need to fix it.

The original factory nipples are much harder that the track ones. I trimmed them down to be the same but shorter protrusion. They all held the hammer up too. They also varied by 0.040" on the amount they stick up above the seat.

Can anyone tell me how to measure the amount the hammer is being held up due to the nipple? I need to know this to trim to the correct length.
You might mount the revolver in a fixture and use a dial indicator to measure the position of the hammer relative to each of the six nipples and also with the
cylinder removed
 
You might mount the revolver in a fixture and use a dial indicator to measure the position of the hammer relative to each of the six nipples and also with the
cylinder removed

That is exactly what I did. Strangely, one chamber gave a false reading. The hammer must have been catching on something. I cut that nipple too short. I used one of the soft track nipples and shortened it to the correct length. I made a fixture with hole in to measure the nipples using a dial indicator. Calipers did not give consistent readings.
 
I mis-spoke, it is a pietta. IT is an older gun. I own it, I need to fix it.

The original factory nipples are much harder that the track ones. I trimmed them down to be the same but shorter protrusion. They all held the hammer up too. They also varied by 0.040" on the amount they stick up above the seat.

Can anyone tell me how to measure the amount the hammer is being held up due to the nipple? I need to know this to trim to the correct length.
I have measured the distance between the hammer and the frame using shim stock, both two narrow pieces and a single piece with a slot cut to fit around hammer nose. Another method is to use pin gauges if you have a set of smaller ones (mine go from .011” to .060”). I still have a couple of sets from my toolmaker days.
upload_2020-3-19_19-38-37.jpeg

Here is a 58 hammer flush and tight to the frame.
upload_2020-3-19_19-40-42.jpeg

And here is one .040” off the frame, measured with a .040” gauge pin.
upload_2020-3-19_19-42-12.jpeg

Both are common measurement methods used by toolmakers and machinists.
 
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