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CVA Mountain Rifle

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I know there are several threads dealing with certain aspects of these critters, but I just got mine 5 days ago and I wanted to give a general report on how it is coming. I hope others will join in with their experiences/thoughts/dreams about these rifles as well.

My first day of shooting was frustrating, but mainly because I was in a hurry to shoot it and not really prepared as well as I could have been. I shot a total of 5 shots with different loads and got the cleaning jag stuck in the barrel so I had to come home to my vise and workbench rather than risk tearing up the ramrod with my pliers. I gave it a good scrubbing after removing the jag and tried again today.

I fired my first shot and realized the sun was on my sights too much to hold very well, so I moved my portable bench into the shade. Then I shot the first ever group with this new-to-me rifle, 3 shots using 80 grains of FFFG Goex. I was astounded and pleased, with a 3/4" group. I couldn't see any reason to change loads after that. I was using a bench, but only with a rest for the forend, no sandbags or butt rest, and my eyes are not what they used to be.

The group was several inches low, however, and I fired a few more shots while I played with the adjustable rear site. I begin to have problems with the hammer binding on the way down, and it was getting worse. I ended up having to loosen a lock screw before I could finish. It slowed down my shooting and I only shot one more three shot group at the bull after I was sighted in. It measured 2 3/8". The barrel was getting fouled pretty good by then, or maybe I was getting tired of pulling the trigger and not having it go boom, but that really wasn't a bad group at all, two of the shots were in the 2" bull.

Anyway, I had to share this. Now I need to clean it and try to shim that lock somehow before I shoot it again.

I think I forgot to mention I was shooting at 50 yards.
 
Wife hunts with a Mountain Stalker and loves it.. She shoots all my other rifles but the MS is hers and she loves it,,
 
NA - You fail to mention what caliber your MR is and what projectile you are using (and patch material if shooting RB) . . . That would be helpful info IF you are looking for any "help" and/or guidance. That said . . . the CVA Mountain Rifle is a pretty good ML. I have a 4-screw patch box, .45 cal version I picked up at a pawn shop about 10 years ago. I cleaned it up, refinished the stock, replaced the powder drum and went shooting. .440 ball, 45 gr 3f BP and .015 300 tpi cotton patch material (cut at the muzzle) using spit for the lube and it shoots about 2" 3-shot groups off-hand at 25 yards.

Good luck with yours and have fun with it.

pic of my rifle
 
Pick up a free spinning T handled range rod in case you get something stuck in the bore next time out. The T handle is easy to hook into the crook of a tree branch or even the rood beams of the range you're at. Then pull on the rifle instead of the handle and you'll get much more leverage. That's the great thing about range rods, you don't have to tear up your wooden ram rod. I'd also try swabbing the bore after each shot using a cleaning patch that is barely dampened with 91% rubbing alcohol. That will remove a whole lot of fouling and cut down on your cleaning time at home.
 
I was using a .490 Hornady ball with a .015 patch lubed with Coconut Oil, and swabbing between shots with damp patches with TC #13 plus bore cleaner.

That's a pretty one you've got. Mine has nice figure in the wood, with some fiddleback, but the finish doesn't display it well. I think I may try refinishing it after I've shot it a bit.
 
Thanks for the idea on the range rod. It's just one of those things I need to get and have with me. Like I said, that first day I shot it, I was just in a hurry and wasn't really prepared. I'll try and get more prepared each day. I had the TC Bore cleaner already, it hadn't dried out even though it is something like 17-18 years old. I was amazed at that. I have bore butter too, but I thought I would give the Coconut oil a shot, since we have been using it in place of Crisco lately.
 
Native Arizonan said:
I hope others will join in with their experiences/thoughts/dreams about these rifles as well.

I have built and used several CVA's over the last few decades. I don't recall a single one that didn't shoot pretty well. Most can be tuned up to shoot cloverleaf groups at fifty yds from a rest.

Things that have helped my shooters:

Taking the lock apart, and polishing the rough spots off the internals. I found that a fair percent of the locks, both percussion and flint, will have problems with binding. Many shooters resort to oil to keep things moving, which thickens in the cold, to the point the hammer will not drop fast enough to spark on the frizzen, or reliably set a cap off. I disassemble locks and triggers on a white bath towel to prevent small parts from escaping. I use 1200grit Emory on the flat surfaces, and a Dremel with buffing compound on the curved surfaces. If you understand the lock function, the sear and tumbler can be cleaned up for a first class trigger feel.

I recut the crown on my own rifles to smooth the rifling, and recently I coned the muzzle on a couple rifles to make seating a ball easier. It has no measurable effect on accuracy +/-, but seating a ball is much easier, and faster. I also worked the snags out of the bore with several passes of JB on a tight denim patch to make seating a ball less challenging. Rough spots seem to hold fouling more.

Recently, I fabricated a single trigger for my .54 Mtn Rifle, following Peter Alexander's map. I used a Leman trigger from Track, and reformed the trigger slightly with a bit of a bend. The trigger plate was formed from 1/8"x1/2" tool steel. It's a 2lb single trigger with very little creep. I was most happy.

I also refitted a 3/8" ramrod from Track. I mounted a .54 Jag with a ball pulled under the jag, also from track. The TOTW hickory rods are way tougher than the "whatever wood" rod that came with the kit. The extra diameter helps when pushing a sticky PRB home after a few shots.

Keep an eye ouot for a T handle short starter. Mine is threaded 10-32, and fits in the end on my ramrod. A big help if a ball hangs up in the woods. When hunting, I place a .54 felt wad, greased with lube under the jag. I punch a hole in the wad to fit under the jag. When reloading, a quick pass with the greased wad in place makes a world if difference. Simply swab it up and down a couple times, and refill. Without breaking a sweat, or even swearing at the PRB, everything seats MUCH easier. At the range, I have a nylon brush on the range rod to remove the charcoal and cinders.

T/C Bore Butter works OK as a patch lube, but don't even think it prevents rust for more than a day or so. Or, at least it never did in any rifle I used it in. And in the woods, deer can smell it a mile out. If Crisco has any advantages, odor would likely top the list. I use Track Mink Oil lube for my pre-lubed hunting patches.
 
Thanks T-man, those were some good, helpful comments. I only have one question, on the acronym JB that you ran down the bore to smooth it down. I'm new to the forum and haven't caught up on all the acronyms yet. Track of the Wolf (TOTW), Lead Round Ball (PRB), I got those; but I am saying to myself, "surely he isn't putting J-B Weld down the barrel of his muzzleloader?"

My lock is rough, as you can feel the roughness when you pull the hammer back. I was thinking about maybe doing exactly what you are doing.
 
PRB,, Patched Round Ball,, sometimes referred to as the PRB combo.
PRB combo,, also infers to the lubricate aspect of the patch,, very important.
 
JB is J-B Bore Paste. a paste containin' a very fine abrasive used to polish & smooth-up the bore just a bit.
 
IMHO you might be using too much powder for target shooting. I would cut it back to 60 grains and try again. I use. 85 grains for hunting loads. :2
 
Once you've got your load and materials all set where you want them, consider my dry patch lube. I mix a 1 part castor oil to 5 parts Deantured Alcohol (cocoanut oil and olive oil should also work).

Soak your patches in this mix, and let the alcohol evaporate. There is sufficient oil in the patch to lubricate it, yet int enough to leave any significant oil in the bore to accumulate fouling.

With my old favorite tallow + beeswax patch lube, I had to swab every 3 - 5 rounds fired. With the new Castor oil mix, I still didn't need to swab after 20+ rounds fired, and when I finally did, there was enough fouling to just darken a patch. There was no change in accuracy.

When you have opportunity, try it and see what you think.
 
The Mountain Rifles really are gems. They are still putting tasty venison on the table and poking tiny holes in paper even after all these years. That is if you can find one that was taken care of.

I have a .58 that is a wonderful shooter with 90grs, pillow ticking patch, 50/50 olive oil and beeswax lube, and a .570" round ball.
 
It is my personal opinion that the Mountain Rifle(with the Made in USA barrel) was by far the best traditional rifle CVA or Traditions has ever sold. And later versions with the Spanish made barrels were second best! :idunno: :idunno:
 
Native Arizonan said:
That sounds worth a try. Does the Castor oil mix well with the alcohol, or do you just shake it up real good before dumping the patches in there?

It mixes really well with DA - better than olive oil, but I think I'll try some soon anyway.
 
I made some up with grape seed oil and soaked a strip of my patch material in it, and hung it out to dry. It was too windy to shoot for groups this afternoon, though, so I put off trying it for another day.
 
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