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Forsyth thought that slower rates of twist with shallow rifling stabilized large caliber balls better.
I've only had the jaeger for about 6 months and haven't fired it much. The previous owner recommended that using a wad improved accuracy, it seems to work.
Due to the large powder charge in a rifle like this it may keep from burning up the patch.
 

Rock Home Isle

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One of the reasons I haven't shot it much is because it is a thumper and has a fierce recoil.
I get that totally…my .54 calibre Tennessee Mountain Rifle is a joy to shoot…with target loads…hunting loads ring my bell after about 6 or 7 shots. I just don’t do well with heavy recoil from the bench…out hunting, I don’t even feel it.

I could not even imagine tge recoil out of a .75 calibre Jaeger….AWESOME DrainBramage
 

Old Hawkeye

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Conicals are horrible in deep rifling…why would you even suggest such a thing as a solution?

Slow twist, deep rifling is ideal for PRB

Fast twist, shallow rifling is ideal for conical projectiles.
I wasn't suggesting a solution. I was suggesting you open your mind. Why did the original Hawken rifles having rifling with a 48 twist (which you call a fast twist) shoot PRBs & Civil War rifles having rifling with 60 or even 70+ twist (which you call slow twist) shoot Minie' conicals? Like I said, things aren't as simple as some think. Your conclusions about twist rates are based on modern changes in rifling & projectile types developed in the last 50 or 60 years & are not absolute doctrine by any means & shouldn't be applied to all circumstances as you imply. Repeating what others tell you doesn't make it true. Give post #11 another read & do some more research on this subject & you may modify your views. Just food for thought.
 

Rock Home Isle

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I wasn't suggesting a solution. I was suggesting you open your mind. Why did the original Hawken rifles having rifling with a 48 twist (which you call a fast twist) shoot PRBs & Civil War rifles having rifling with 60 or even 70+ twist (which you call slow twist) shoot Minie' conicals? Like I said, things aren't as simple as some think. Your conclusions about twist rates are based on modern changes in rifling & projectile types developed in the last 50 or 60 years & are not absolute doctrine by any means & shouldn't be applied to all circumstances as you imply. Repeating what others tell you doesn't make it true. Give post #11 another read & do some more research on this subject & you may modify your views. Just food for thought.
Asking me to open my mind?…Wow, if that’s not the Pot calling the Kettle Black…

1:48 is not a fast twist…it’s middle ground. Work on reading comprehension.

I would say that you just accept the fact we both enjoy black powder, but we have different views and beliefs. And thank god we live in a free country where we are allowed to express those views, without persecution.

So enjoy the site, and stop persecuting me everytime you think you disagree with me. You had an over the top disagreement with me now on several different threads…and now you’re turning into a stalker.

Not appreciated…
 
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I use leather scraps, I get from a harness shop. I prefer soft leather .025 over bore size about 1/8 inch thick, If I use a stiffer hard leather I soak them over night in a 50/50 mixture of alcohol and olive oil , then spread them out to dry for a day.
No harness shops around here but I heard of a Tandy Leather goods...I can also check the local fabric shop but may not have real leather. Thanks for the info!!
 

stikshooter

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Great question.

The 1:48 twist is a compromise twist: not really a RB twist, not really a conical bullet twist. It generally worked well and there are countless examples of individual rifles that had tremendous accuracy with RBs or awesome accuracy with conicals.

The addition of the un-lubricated patch adds another un-needed step to the loading process, and the un-lubricated patch could be a fire hazard, if range conditions are very dry.

I’d develop loads using traditional RB as the projectile, and look into Maxi-Balls and other conical bullets and do some load development there as well.

They are great guns.
A well known by many here and on Modern Muzzle loading shows you should go back to school and get some learnin before spouting such trash . I believe YouTube still has video's Showing Idaho Lewis shooting (STOCK) TC Renegade 1-48 barrels with round balls and conicals to extreme yardage , (800yds) plus with conicals ! Both projectiles sitting on a Felt wad TOO!
 

Mike in FL

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This sort of got out of hand. I sure didn't mean to create discord. My Pedersoli GPR has a 1:48. I wish it didn't. But I'm sort of glad it has shallow rifling


because the deep cut rifling of long barrel custom guns I used to have were so very difficult to get completely clean and I'm serious about that last cleaning patch coming out snow white. I haven't shot the gun yet and was just wondering about an over powder wad beneath the patched ball, something I never did before with the slow deep twist rifles.
From what you knowledgeable folks say, it is not unlike chicken soup for a sick person: not necessary but it can't hurt. Thanks to all.
 

Rock Home Isle

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This sort of got out of hand. I sure didn't mean to create discord. My Pedersoli GPR has a 1:48. I wish it didn't. But I'm sort of glad it has shallow rifling


because the deep cut rifling of long barrel custom guns I used to have were so very difficult to get completely clean and I'm serious about that last cleaning patch coming out snow white. I haven't shot the gun yet and was just wondering about an over powder wad beneath the patched ball, something I never did before with the slow deep twist rifles.
From what you knowledgeable folks say, it is not unlike chicken soup for a sick person: not necessary but it can't hurt. Thanks to all.
Welcome to the forum. Not out of hand. Snowflakes upset by the word “Compromise”….and then proceeding to give evidence in support of the rest of my statement….I don’t get it.

The 1:48 rifling is fine, it’s a compromise rifling that will work well with both PRBs and conicals…shoot the gun, develop loads…you will have an awesome time.

I would lubricate your patches…unlubricated patches tend to smolder, and are fire hazards.
 
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Rock Home Isle , The leather wads work as well as thicker cushion wads I first tried cutting down the shotgun wads I had, then realized that I had a pile of leather scraps So I made some and liked them. Since I have an unlimited supply of leather scraps they are all I use now, both for the rifles and shotguns. A simple test to see if over powder wads will help is to take a cleaning patch and wad it up and use it as an over powder wad. I have seen people on trail walks that swab between shots use their used cleaning patches as wads.
 

Rock Home Isle

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Rock Home Isle , The leather wads work as well as thicker cushion wads I first tried cutting down the shotgun wads I had, then realized that I had a pile of leather scraps So I made some and liked them. Since I have an unlimited supply of leather scraps they are all I use now, both for the rifles and shotguns. A simple test to see if over powder wads will help is to take a cleaning patch and wad it up and use it as an over powder wad. I have seen people on trail walks that swab between shots use their used cleaning patches as wads.
When you posted about using leather as wadding…OMG, you grabbed my attention. I’ve noted a difference in patterns when shooting the fibre wads (Cushion Wads)…if I cut the thickness in half, my patterns seem to improve quite a bit. I lube the fibre wads with moose milk…

I get my best patterns if I use only the heavy Nitro-Cards as wadding over the powder. I use a thin, card stock as an over the shot wad, on all my loads.

Do you lube them or shoot them dry?
 
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I use them dry if I have softer leather, I I have stiffer leather I soak them over night in a 50/50 mix of alcohol and olive oil. Then spread them out to dry.For the shotguns I use paper shot cartridges made from newspaper tied shut with kite string with the paper cartridge serving as over shot card.
 

Rock Home Isle

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I use them dry if I have softer leather, I I have stiffer leather I soak them over night in a 50/50 mix of alcohol and olive oil. Then spread them out to dry.For the shotguns I use paper shot cartridges made from newspaper tied shut with kite string with the paper cartridge serving as over shot card.
That is so fricken cool. What distances are your most consistent when shooting?
 

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