Crack in stock? tips?

[Jimmyflashpan]

hey y'all.. shot the flinter and noticed while cleaning this little guy

I was thinking wood glue to keep it from cracking more but I'm not sure. thoughts, suggestions?

 

[Grimord]

From inside the lock mortise you could inject some epoxy glue using a syringe to stop the crack from spreading.

 

[SDSmlf]

Those kinds of cracks many times propagate from the lock screw hole. Suggest figuring out why and where the crack started and fix that. Just glue or epoxy the visible crack and it will likely appear again. If you happened to have used glue, second time repair could be difficult, as most glues don’t adhere well to themselves once cured, like Acraglas or some other epoxies will.

 

[oldwood]

Mix a little epoxie and smear it in from the big end of the crack toward the small end of the crack. Since the rifle is finished , wipe off the excess , and should be , ok.

 

[Scota@4570]

Determine what caused the crack and address it too

 

[ohio ramrod]

As stated you want to determine why it cracked. Then I reccomend you drill a small hole just past the end of the crack to relieve any stress and prevent the crack from continuing, Then inject either an expanding glue (such as gorila glue) or super glue into the crack.

 

[Freedom]

It has been my experience that this kind of crack is caused from a build style that uses a wood screw for a tang bolt. Instead of a machine bolt that goes from the tang and threads into the trigger group.

Until the design flaw is addressed, no amount of glue will stop the cracks from returning and growing..

 

[Jimmyflashpan]

This was a production rifle and didn't use wood screws. The tang bolt is a machine bolt that threads into the trigger guard. I used JB quick weld this AM and let it cure for the required hour. Shot it in the afternoon and the crack hasn't traveled. I took out the lock and checked the mortise. The crack was superficial in depth and didn't go further than 1-2mm. so far the JB weld is doing what its intended to do. I had planned to remove the factory lacquer and re-finish the stock after next deer season so I'm not to bothered by it as long as it stays put!

 

[Jimmyflashpan]

And She shot okay. 100 yards standing in some pretty gnarly wind. wish it wasn't on steel (the splatter doesn't give the best visual of hits) but it was so windy that my target stand kept falling over

 

[Eric Krewson]

I would remove the lock, stand the gun on it's butt put painters tape over the crack tightly and fill the crack from the lock mortise with superglue until it won't hold anymore and let it set up. Remove the tape, you might have scrape off a little glue residue and add a touch more finish.

Next I would relieve a little wood from the lock mortis where the back of the lock sits.

I had a TC lock that I had to knock out from the opposite side, it was TIGHT. I used one of those finger nail emery boards, cut the end square and ran it around the inlet until the lock would fall out on it's own and still have no gaps.

I ended up with this fit.

 

[Jimmyflashpan]

I would remove the lock, stand the gun on it's butt put painters tape over the crack tightly and fill the crack from the lock mortise with superglue until it won't hold anymore and let it set up. Remove the tape, you might have scrape off a little glue residue and add a touch more finish.

Next I would relieve a little wood from the lock mortis where the back of the lock sits.

I had a TC lock that I had to knock out from the opposite side, it was TIGHT. I used one of those finger nail emery boards, cut the end square and ran it around the inlet until the lock would fall out on it's own and still have no gaps.

I ended up with this fit.View attachment 129901

some would relief sounds like a good idea. I'll don't that for sure! thanks.

 

[Flintandsteel]

Fixing the crack is cosmetic, more important that you fix the cause.
The lock is moving rearward under recoil. I would guess that the barrel is not properly inlet at the rear of barrel, or recoil lug. If you don’t fix it, it’ll just keep coming back, or get worse.
At this point, you can’t move the barrel back, but you could bed the recoil area. Also, it would help to enlarge the hole where the rear lock bolt ( if it has two) goes through the recoil lug.

 

[Sidney Smith]

Epoxy won't penetrate deep enough into the crack, unless it's real thin, which most Epoxy isn't, to do any good. Believe it or not, super glue is the better choice for hairline cracks. I've repaired many a milsurp crack with plain old crazy glue. Use a fine tipped bottle and drizzle enough into the crack so it seeps in deep. Try not to get any glue on the outside of the stock, for if you ever have to refinish the stock the glued area will not take stain.

 

[Eric Krewson]

I forgot to mention; I did blacken the lock plate edge with soot from my coal oil lamp and put the plate in the inlet to identify the areas that need wood removed, I didn't randomly sand.

 

[LME]

It has been my experience that this kind of crack is caused from a build style that uses a wood screw for a tang bolt. Instead of a machine bolt that goes from the tang and threads into the trigger group.

Until the design flaw is addressed, no amount of glue will stop the cracks from returning and growing..

Let the rifle slip through your hands and the butt hit a hard surface it you want a crack where that one is?

 

[Robby]

I would remove the lock, see if the origin of the crack can be determined and proceed from there.
Robby

 

[rich pierce]

I believe if folks read the posts above, it’s been repaired.