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Counter sink drill guide

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I struggle with getting my screw hole perfectly centered through a countersunk hole in a butt plate. Sometimes I hit it perfectly but most of the time I am a little askew with a slightly tilted screw head. I always start over, plug the hole and make another attempt. I have used gimlets, hand drills, power drills and can still get the screw hole slightly off. Of course I can file the screw head to make it look perfectly centered but I would rather have the hole centered in the first place.

Anybody make a drilling jig to make a pilot hole for the screw?

Of course it sounds like a nutty idea but I am thinking about drilling a perfectly centered hole through a countersunk screw head and partially cut off shank, hot melting the screw head perfectly aligned in the countersink and drilling my pilot hole through it. Sometimes my nutty ideas actually work, we will see on this one.

I am working on Kibler kit and have one of the buttplate return holes drilled perfectly and am on my 4th plugging and redrilling of the other one.
 
Drill the screw hole first then countersink after. The countersink on metal parts can be adjusted to center the head more easily. It's easier to plug a hole in wood (i.e. adjust the screw angle) than in metal...
 
Ok that makes way more sense I was wondering why you were attempting to do that backwards. Can you drill your holes then clean up with a matching countersink? I see how that would be tough.
 
Eric, I have a set of "tapered" drills with countersinks attached. They are for drilling holes meant to be plugged to hide the screw but also can just be counter sunk. Sorry, I don't remember where I got them (probably a wood working outlet) and I don't know if they would stand up to metal...............Daniel
 
Transfer punch set?
https://i.pinimg.com/736x/2e/a3/68/2ea36863a37c4e90ff3da231bfcd93b9.jpg

Harbor freight has these. The drill bit is inside a spring loaded sleeve. Plan ahead and drill the first hole in the butt plated to fit the sleeve. Once you have a straight centered hole in the plate and the wood increase the size as needed.

I make piloted countersinks. Turn what you want then grind half of it away. File some relief so it will cut. Harden and draw. The non piloted countersinks are sketchy. Besides if you only make a cone the screw will not fit properly. The edge of the screw is not razor sharp.

When drilling a hole ina metal part, work up the size you want in smaller increments and measure for center as you go. Make corrections if need with a small round file or Dremmil bur. Once it is right the larger bit will follow the hole.

"These holes are already drilled and countersunk as the kit comes from Kibler. The fact that are already drilled makes hitting the exact center for a pilot hole hard for me."

Me too. Jim does not see why it is an issue. He probably has some special trick. I have a couple of his kits coming. I'll probably make some bushings to use as drill guides this time.

He also pre drills butplate screw holes, they never line up for me.
 
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Use a transfer punch that is the size of the shank hole and set the angle to match the way you want the head to set. Then drill the pilot hole.
 
Eric Krewson said:
I struggle with getting my screw hole perfectly centered through a countersunk hole in a butt plate. Sometimes I hit it perfectly but most of the time I am a little askew with a slightly tilted screw head. I always start over, plug the hole and make another attempt. I have used gimlets, hand drills, power drills and can still get the screw hole slightly off. Of course I can file the screw head to make it look perfectly centered but I would rather have the hole centered in the first place.

Anybody make a drilling jig to make a pilot hole for the screw?

Of course it sounds like a nutty idea but I am thinking about drilling a perfectly centered hole through a countersunk screw head and partially cut off shank, hot melting the screw head perfectly aligned in the countersink and drilling my pilot hole through it. Sometimes my nutty ideas actually work, we will see on this one.

I am working on Kibler kit and have one of the buttplate return holes drilled perfectly and am on my 4th plugging and redrilling of the other one.
Try one of these
 
I made one of my drill guides, it worked perfectly once I figured out how to keep it from shifting in the countersink.

I am going deer hunting in a little bit, pictures to follow when I get back.
 
I just did the buttplate of my TVM early virginia kit the other night.

I used the door hinge pilot drill just like the one in a few posts up.

Some of those old fashioned cast screws just do not spin on center.
 
Also the door hinge drills could be made fatter with brass tubing. Real hobby shops sell telescoping brass tubing. It comes in increments of nominal sizes. That will get you super close. After that a layer of tape would take care of in between sizes. Using those you could bush the drill for a snug fit in any hole size.

Another idea would be to turn a tapered bushing to go over the hinge drill. I have not done it but I may try it next time.
 
I finally took time to pull up the pictures, the drill picture is staged, one hand on the dril and one on the camera so the drill isn't straight.

I found a phillips head screw would perfectly center a bit for drilling a guide. In this picture the drill guide has been hot melt glued into the countesink.

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Bottom side;

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Drilling the pilot hole;

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Almost perfect screw placement after drilling the pilot hole;

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Here's what I use (bosch, screw pilot drill set) and it does a great job. You can get them @ walmart online or Menards if you have one where you live.
 
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Eric,
I use gimlets for my pilot holes. Because they are hand turned, it's pretty easy to keep,them aligned and plumb. Use a small square to help keep them while turning.
They come out almost perfect, every time.
 
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