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Could someone tell me what they think this is?

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My main concern about taking the barrel off isn't that I don't know how to do it, it is that I don't really have anything to put underneath the barrel to prevent rusting and the like.

Here are the direct words of the builder of my gun (Context: I was asking how to remove the barrel for cleaning/oiling the underside, since I had seen videos where that was referenced)

"Please don't ever take the barrel out of the stock. I sealed the wood and coated the barrel. You won't have an issue with it. The only thing you will ever need to remove is the lock to clean it."

I don't really have anything to re-coat the underside of the barrel with, if I were to take it off.
Again I would have had that barrel off in no time. There’s Boeing Shield nice and thin that after it cures leaves a film you will never know is there or LPS3 a preservative; for if you want to never remove again. Both are available on Amazon. I personally was very impressed with the boeing shield after being brought up on LPS 3 which is thick . Either will leave long term protection. You don’t have to do it now maybe in the future. This is basically about whether you got a colleran or other. If you are happy with the function of the rifle then leave it be don’t torture your self. I’m assuming the barrel is pinned?
 
Again I would have had that barrel off in no time. There’s Boeing Shield nice and thin that after it cures leaves a film you will never know is there or LPS3 a preservative; for if you want to never remove again. Both are available on Amazon. I personally was very impressed with the boeing shield after being brought up on LPS 3 which is thick . Either will leave long term protection. You don’t have to do it now maybe in the future. This is basically about whether you got a colleran or other. If you are happy with the function of the rifle then leave it be don’t torture your self. I’m assuming the barrel is pinned?

Yes, the barrel is pinned
 
Otherwise, im gonna hit the bpre again with some more steel wool. It might just be wishful thinking and different lighting, but I think there is a difference in the "rust" between the first and second photos.

According to the great Zonie, using fine steel.wool to polish a bore wont do much to hurt said bore. And my gun doesnt even have any rifling to worry about.

Some people apparently take steel wool to new barrels as a matter of course.

Cant hurt. And according to the instructions on my barrel of Barricade, the removal of rust in that fashion is even a "legitimate" use of Barricade

Ill give it a shot in the next few days. 25 strokes or so

I would think that 25 strokes is a minimal warm up exercise before the 150 to 200 strokes needed to have an effect on the spots in your barrel and the milling marks.

Even if you have your honing rod chucked up in a hand drill, 50 passes through the targeted area won't hurt the bore and might be needed to take out the rust spots and mill marks.
 
I would think that 25 strokes is a minimal warm up exercise before the 150 to 200 strokes needed to have an effect on the spots in your barrel and the milling marks.

Even if you have your honing rod chucked up in a hand drill, 50 passes through the targeted area won't hurt the bore and might be needed to take out the rust spots and mill marks.
Most Definitely requires a lot of time and if you watch the dualest den video I think he’s commented he spent well over an hour and his barrel didn’t have machine marks. I would think taking the barrel off the stock which should be no big deal the best way to hone it muzzle to breach.
 
The builder of the gun advised me to never remove the barrel. They even used "please".

...

If you are new to muzzleloading and don't have all the tools such as screwdrivers that precisely fit in the slots or pin punches that match the pins in your stock, it is very easy to split out the wood in your stock as you take the gun apart or put it back together. I am sure that is the reason for the cautionary advisory that the builder provided. Sometimes, you just have to remove the barrel from the stock. At this time, I don't think that is necessary. You should have a secure vise with padded jaws to hold the gun and a rest on the bench to locate the barrel before you do a lot of the bore polishing.
 
Advising you to never remove the barrel from the stock is absurd! Its not a big deal, unless they did something equally absurd enough to make that recommendation in the first place.
Robby
 
If you are new to muzzleloading and don't have all the tools such as screwdrivers that precisely fit in the slots or pin punches that match the pins in your stock, it is very easy to split out the wood in your stock as you take the gun apart or put it back together. I am sure that is the reason for the cautionary advisory that the builder provided. Sometimes, you just have to remove the barrel from the stock. At this time, I don't think that is necessary. You should have a secure vise with padded jaws to hold the gun and a rest on the bench to locate the barrel before you do a lot of the bore polishing.
W
Advising you to never remove the barrel from the stock is absurd! Its not a big deal, unless they did something equally absurd enough to make that recommendation in the first place.
Robby
i agree 100 percent if that’s a Colleran barrel I’ll eat my hat. If it is they screwed up in the manufacture process. Then I send it back to the builder and tell him to replace it
 
Advising you to never remove the barrel from the stock is absurd! Its not a big deal, unless they did something equally absurd enough to make that recommendation in the first place.
Robby
Good man I’m thinking we all spent enough on this post no disrespect to the original poster clearly something is not right hence he raised a valid question that turns out to be more than his original concern. This gent could be my brother who is very hard to convince too. You shell out a lot of money and you want to believe I get that.
 
I'll head out to Ace Hardware today and pick up some of the metal-polishing scotch-brite pads and some 0000 steel wool, to try polishing and burnishing the bore.

I'll use this video as a guide



Any thoughts?

My thoughts are to do just what you are doing by going to that video by Mike. He's forgotten more about this sort of thing than most of us know,, and especially me!! I thought from the first that this is just a stain in a smooth bore that is being retained because the barrel is so rough, probably from machining. The first thing to do is remove those machining marks and then see what you have! My thought!!
 
Yes, the barrel is pinned
Boston, you're getting some real savvy advice that you should inform the builder of your gun about both the stain and the machine/mill marks. The mill marks are definitely a sign of a faulty barrel. I would expect the builder to solve this problem for you, and especially since he/she/it asked you "please" not to remove the barrel. That statement raises a lot of questions in my mind, the first one being "Why?"
 
Are you sure someone didn’t build this with an Indian musket barrel? A colerain barrel should be very well finished.
 
I have this bore-brush. Would it be suitable?
View attachment 92024

I dont have any Evaporust. Ive got Ballistol, Barricade, RemOil, and some WD-40.

Could I dunk the above brush in any of the above substances and clean out the bore that way?

The brass bristles of my brush wont scratch-up the steel of the barrel, im assuming. Since steel is harder than brass...
No, it is not suitable for a muzzleloading barrel, only breechloaders. The brass bristles are designed to be pushed only. When you push this type of brush down to the breech and then reverse it to pull it out, the bristles can jamb it fast or damage the bore. Instead use OOOO steel wool on a cleaning jag just as you would a piece of tow.
 
Alright, I wrapped some #0000 steel wool around my cleaning jag, squirted some Barricade on the mess, and ran it up and down about 40-50 times. I can no longer see the "rust" with my naked eyes, and the bore itself is much shinier now.

As for the tool-marks and under-the-barrel stuff, there is a gunsmith that lives literally 5 minutes away from me. About - The Village Gunsmith, North Dartmouth MA

I'll give him a call tomorrow, see what he thinks and says.

Otherwise.... so long as it is safe to shoot, I am comfortable with it. I have already put 20 or so 0.600 roundballs downrange with it, and I still have both my hands and eyes. Any actual work can wait until after December, I suppose...
 
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