Could someone tell me what they think this is?

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Jaeger

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I can tell you what *I* think it is: surface rust.

I just dont know how it is getting there. I keep the gun well-oiled with Barricade.

You can only see these spots when viewed at an angle (like in the picture), not when looking down the bore. In addition, any patches I send down the bore dont pick up any brown (from rust)
View attachment 92011
How should I go about removing this?. I've got some Ballistol, and I've been reading about how it can "get under" surface rust and make it easier to remove. Should I soak a patch in the Ballistol and run it down the bore a few times?
PATINA!
 

Joemolf

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They have a contact page. I reach out to them maybe you can upload the original picture you posted here and ask them if this is their barrel. At this point I think it’s a little bit more then it being safe but what you paid for. Safe to me is at max loads. Good luck
 

Boston123

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They have a contact page. I reach out to them maybe you can upload the original picture you posted here and ask them if this is their barrel. At this point I think it’s a little bit more then it being safe but what you paid for. Safe to me is at max loads. Good luck
I've actually contacted them before, regarding powder charges. They told me 100 grains of 2Fg was the max they would put down the pipe, and I have shot 90 grains without any issue.

Regardless, Im going to stick to 60-70 grains from now on. Not really out of any fear of blowing the gun up, but because powder can be expensive and the recoil with 90 grains was unpleasant.
 

Boston123

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If you are new to muzzleloading and don't have all the tools such as screwdrivers that precisely fit in the slots or pin punches that match the pins in your stock, it is very easy to split out the wood in your stock as you take the gun apart or put it back together. I am sure that is the reason for the cautionary advisory that the builder provided. Sometimes, you just have to remove the barrel from the stock. At this time, I don't think that is necessary. You should have a secure vise with padded jaws to hold the gun and a rest on the bench to locate the barrel before you do a lot of the bore polishing.
Yeah, I found the email where we (the builder and I) were discussing how to remove the barrel. On my end I was asking about removing it for routine cleaning. His advice (that I posted above) was to not remove the barrel.

After looking up other examples of removing the barrel on this forum, I get the sense that many long-time users on this forum prefer to not remove pinned barrels from the stock.

I'll see what the gunsmith near me recommends/wants to do. I slept in this morning and missed his "office hours"

My main issue with all of this is that I lack the facilities to do much of this. I don't have a workbench with a vise, for example
 

Grenadier1758

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Yeah, I found the email where we (the builder and I) were discussing how to remove the barrel. On my end I was asking about removing it for routine cleaning. His advice (that I posted above) was to not remove the barrel.

After looking up other examples of removing the barrel on this forum, I get the sense that many long-time users on this forum prefer to not remove pinned barrels from the stock.
...
My main issue with all of this is that I lack the facilities to do much of this. I don't have a workbench with a vise, for example
I agree with the builder. Removing the barrel for routine cleaning is not necessary. I am one of the many on the forum that prefers to leave the barrel n the stock for cleaning. Once in a great while it may be necessary to remove the barrel. Right now, leave the barrel in the stock.

Look at @davec2's thread on his new way of cleaning using a magnet to close the touch hole if you are using a flintlock. Then at the end he has made a flushing adapter for cleaning. No need to remove the barrel for a thorough cleaning.
My new way of cleaning......with a magnet !!! | The Muzzleloading Forum
 

11th corps

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Have you tried Kroil? that stuff is great for things like lead removal. According to the can it creeps under materials. Not saying you have lead buildup, but Kroil is useful for a lot of things, including unsticking rusted bolts and nuts etc.
Kroil.jpg
 

Boston123

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Look at @davec2's thread on his new way of cleaning using a magnet to close the touch hole if you are using a flintlock
I saw that, good idea! I had just smooshed a glob of beeswax onto/into the touchhole when I was cleaning with water before, but a magnet sounds even easier than that.
 

Joemolf

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I've actually contacted them before, regarding powder charges. They told me 100 grains of 2Fg was the max they would put down the pipe, and I have shot 90 grains without any issue.

Regardless, Im going to stick to 60-70 grains from now on. Not really out of any fear of blowing the gun up, but because powder can be expensive and the recoil with 90 grains was unpleasant.
Excellent! LOL that’s the one thing you really notice when using the larger caliber smooth bores is the powder you go through. I have a Brown Bess 75 caliber; when I went to paper cartridges I went to 100 grains of 1FG and 1.5FG from 80 of 2FG. Main reason was to get the paper cartridges to look like they had powder in them. Man oh man does a pound of powder go fast when you are filling those paper cartridges LOL. So much fun using paper cartridges though!
Good luck and have fun and remember we all have your best interest at heart I think I can safely say. We just don’t want you being taken advantage of. I think i told you earlier on if your happy that’s the important thing. The last I’d want is to return something I’m infatuated with. Heck I’ve been talking about getting my lock lightened up for last several months but I don’t want it apart LOL in the meantime I have other flintlocks I can shoot I’m just strange that way. One day I’ll send the lock out.
 
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