Cork wads for revolvers, and behind conicals

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Billy Boy

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Have any of you gents used or experimented with cork wads? I use them on shotguns but nothing else. I have a good supply of cork and made som punches recently. Does cork take lube? I would think it would scrub well. Any history or suggestions?

Thnx
 

arcticap

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IMO I wouldn't try to have the cork itself absorb any lube.
But I do remember someone saying how they went to an agricultural supply store and bought a large livestock syringe or feeding syringe
to dispense lube with.
That device would enable a person to easily dispense lube either under or over the ball whether using cork or another type of wad.
Some prefer lube under the ball because it's not as messy or affected by the flame and heat.
Petroleum jelly is also a popular revolver lube with some folks.
The plastic livestock/feeding syringes can be very inexpensive in price [maybe $5] and some even come with attachments that fit down into the chambers.
But they don't actually have needles on them.
I found some available on eBay & online using Google.
A cork wad is a good idea.
Whether you need lube or not is another issue.
But if you do, a lube that can be easily dispensed may help to make the cork
more applicable for use with revolvers, at least for the powders that need lube.
Probably only a very small dab of lube would be needed in a chamber if at all.
That's my 2 cents.
 
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Tom A Hawk

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I have a die that extrudes a thin ribbon of SPG lube, from which grease cookies are cut, for use with paper patched Sharps bullets. The grease cookies work great in .44 cap and ball revolvers. They're easy to carry with less mess and press easily into the chamber mouth.
 

arcticap

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I've also seem some grease cookie reports made from different recipes.
One thing that stands out is sometimes they hit the target or stick to the ball.
That was reported by a cowboy shooter I think.
It may depend on how much wax they contain.
Either too hard or too soft of a recipe and they can either stick or travel.
Revolver targets are often a relatively close distance to the shooter.
 
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I've also seem some grease cookie reports made from different recipes.
One thing that stands out is sometimes they hit the target or stick to the ball.
That was reported by a cowboy shooter I think.
It may depend on how much wax they contain.
Either too hard or too soft of a recipe and they can either stick or travel.
Revolver targets are often a relatively close distance to the shooter.
I have had the same experience (wad hitting downrange target), especially if a card wad is used on top of the powder. These are not wool wads, just the card wad/lube cookie. I have used the "Gatofeo # 1" for my under ball wads. Not criticizing this lube as it works well in many applications, but I too have come to suspect that it may contain just a bit too much wax. As soon as weather permits--too cold and too much rain/snow--I intend to experiment with both castor oil and neatsfoot oil added to the mix. Hopefully this softens things up and helps "disperse" the lube upon firing.
 

Rat

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About a month ago I started to experiment with a wax "biscuit". Got busy and haven't had a chance to continue, but initial tries gave good result. I heated pure bees wax, got it good and hot, then dropped in wonder wads, one at a time and fished them out with a tooth pick. The six or so shots fired, they did not stick to the ball. So, I'm not too sure that "too much" wax is causing problems, if a pure/all wax wafer does not stick to the ball. ???
 

Eutycus

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Oh also , this cork material isnt petroleum based is it? I dont know for sure but I somehow doubt we're talking about real cork are we?I'm guessing we're referring to the stuff gaskets are made from.Is that stuff real cork?
 

Rat

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Take a match to it, and see if it chars, or melts.
 

Stony Broke

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I've been using wasp nest material for years between the powder and patch with a smoothbore load. It seems to not soak up the lube and has worked well for me. If wasp nest can do it, I see no reason that cork would not work just fine for the same purpose.
 

arcticap

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Oh also , this cork material isnt petroleum based is it? I dont know for sure but I somehow doubt we're talking about real cork are we?I'm guessing we're referring to the stuff gaskets are made from.Is that stuff real cork?
There's a variety of rolls of real cork for sale on eBay that have different thicknesses.
I'm quite surprised how reasonably priced it is including the free shipping.

Billy Boy, about how thick is the cork that you use for wads?
 
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Billy Boy

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There's a variety of rolls of real cork for sale on eBay that have different thicknesses.
I'm quite surprised how reasonably priced it is including the free shipping.

Billy Boy, about how thick is the cork that you use for wads?
The cork sheet is about 3/16 thick. It is real cork. Itis gasket material and i got it at an auto supply store. Itcomein different thicknesses. I’m thinking it would plump up a 12 gr charge in my 1849 pocket revolver chambers and a 15 gr charge in my ‘62 police. Two of them might work for lighter loads in my 44. Whada ya think? It’s so cold in the garage I just can’t get out there and putz, slipping into geezerhood was bad enough, now wimphood.....
 

Billy Boy

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Would a cork wad absorb the lube or would it just be coated with it?
Finally got to work in the garage/shop, treated (soaked) some 31, 36, and 62 cal cork wads in 5:1 castor oil - alcohol. Turned out fine. Lube penetrated thru wads and they are less “crumbly” after the dunking. I hope it gets above zero before I forget to try them.
 

AZbpBurner

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I used felt "Wonder Wads" long ago, but found that a square of 2 ply toiletpaper with a tiny dab of rifle patch lube (2/3 tallow + 1/3 bees wax) folded up inside it works equally well. As you compress the TP wad between powder & ball, the lube distributes throughout the paper, so only a tiny amount is needed.
 

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