Convince me not to buy this 1860 old silver army

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Candymancan

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Okay... Im addicted to muzzleloaders.. and revolvers in particular. I just started owning guns 8 months ago. Got a modern handgun... love it.. but i dont shoot it much.. ammo prices were too expensive but now theyre 25$ a box so not too bad.

Anyway.. i got two 1851 44cal navy 5 months ago.. brass and steel.. Love them, in fact theyre so accurate and so reliable i carry them sometimes for self defense. Ive had more malfunctions with my modern stuff than my navy... my navy has had 1 cap missfire in 3400 rounds now. I shoot them weekly. Clean them and eveb polish them. I keep them in great shape and lubed.

As time went on i got a flintlock, hawkins rifle, a howdah pistol..

I just got two 1858 remingtons 3 weeks ago. Both brass. One is a 8 inch the other the sheriff model. I know ppl frown on brass.. but i use 30 grains and with thousands of rounds in my 1851 brass.. i still have no imprints on the ring or lose or worn anything.. im sure the remingtons will be fine.. but honestly.. i dont like them as much as thr colts. The hammer spring is too stiff.. even when you losen the screw. And overall it just feels meh, the guns also gunk up quicker than the colts. Still like em and polished with mothers polish theyre beautiful

Anyway. Sorry i talk alot.

Cabelas has a 1860 army polished steel. (Old silver) as pietta calls it. $350.. 1860 army isnt much diff from an 1851 so i never gave much thought on getting one.

but lemme tell ya the more i look the nore i want that pretty polished old silver 1860. other guns i want though are modern, or a 1847 walker. None are in stock anywhere though. But the walker online.


Should i just bite the bullet and get the 1860 today.. or get something else ? Or not get anything.

i just finally paid off my cabelas credit card.. and here i am wanting to buy more lol. But ill be honest. Ive been eyeing guns for 2 years and i havent seen a polished 1860 in store in the last maybe 16 months.

When i got those 1851 navy.. it took cabelas 6 months to get anything back in stock as far as black powder. Oh another reason to get the 1860 is i already have black powder of course.. 1200 caps.. and 454 and 457 round balls. If i get a 1875 or 1873 etc.. id have to buy yet another caliber of ammo.. and 45 colt and 357 is like 60$ a box.... id probly never shoot them

Anyway im writing a book.. ill shut up. Thanks. Here is my revilver collection.. soo purdy.. and here is the polished 1860
Screenshot_20211019-225755_Messages.jpg


20211011_191625.jpg
 
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Candymancan

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Whatever. Read a book.. its a bad habbit since i read so much all my life i tend to write alot now too..

Anyway at cabelas now..

Now im torn betwern this and the polished steel 1860 army.
 
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CaptainKirk

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Actually, there are more differences between the 1851 and the 1860 than you might think. A quick list:

Caliber-correct 1851 cal is .36, and the Army is .44 although most of the 51 repros are in .44
Grip- Totally different feel. Army "plow handle" is generous and doesn't squeeze you out of finger room
Sight- Navy is a brass post, Army is a brass blade
Loading lever-Navy is the loosie-goosie rattly thing we all know and love. Army is a creeping loading lever, tight as a miser's purse and quiet as well.
Barrel- round, tapered and countoured as compared to the Navy's slab-sided octagon
Cylinder-roll engraved with Indian fighting scene as opposed to the Navy's sea battle scene. Army has safety pins on the back for the hammer slot while original Navys had none.
I'm sure there are more if I think it through.

As far as the Old Silver, I've heard nothing but good about it. I'd say go for it.
 

necchi

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1860 army isn't much diff from an 1851 so i never gave much thought on getting one.
There is a significant difference in the grip, feel and balance of the two.
You should find an 1860 somewhere and handle it, you'll either like it or ya won't.
 

SDSmlf

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If you like how the 1851 handles and shoots, you will like the 1860.

And if what to save even more on ammo, consider casting your own roundballs. For the cost of few boxes of roundballs you can buy your equipment (although molds are difficult to find right now) and be in business. If you pay attention, lead can be had for $1 to $3 per pound, and sometimes even free. Figure about 50 roundballs (.454”) per pound of lead….
 
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Michiganmuzzy

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Did i miss something? Of course you should buy it. There's no down side to buying that beauty. If you pass on it there is only regret. If on the very miniscule possibilty that you dont like it(lol) im certain you can get your $ back reselling it.
 

Bob McBride

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I would never convince a man not to buy a gun. I might convince him not to shoot it, in the case of an Indian wall hanger, but I’d never convince him not to buy…..
 

Candymancan

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Well done. Wow. Could you elaborate on what you feel are the main reasons for your excellent results?

Im not sure if your bring a smartass? Can never tell online lol sorry.

But i have no idea. I use the RWS 1075 caps. Never had a missfire with them. I pinch them and i cock and decock th3 hammer and push it on the cap hard to seat it more fully. Make sure there is no oil in the nipples before hand and it always fires.

The only malfunctions i get are after the guns get grimey from say 3-4 cylinders worth they start to cap jam and the cylinder starts to bind. the brass 1851 seems to be able to go the longest at about 6 cylinders worth before it jams and binds and needs a quick relube and wipe down. The steel 1851 gets jammed and binds after 3 or 4.

The remingtons though get bound up and jammed after the 2nd cylinder. Im nit a fan of those guns and if i had to choose between the two for a self defense situation it would deff not be remington. The action feels rough, hammer is rough feeling, spring tension is too much even when you losen That screw.


Anyway i got the 1860 old silver.

I found out they also have a old silver 1851 in 36 caliber ( mine are 44 btw) I almost want that too... lol but i have two 1851 already so i probly wont get it.

The 1860 grip is deff much nicer on the grip than the 1851 my pinky finger doesnt run under the grip. But the 1860 doesnt feel better balenced. It feels heavier in the front maybe im wrong ? however just like my two 1851 that action is so buttery smooth and apring tension is just so nice compared to those 1858s.

I wish i could go in the back of the cabelas to see what they have back there. they dont put their black lowder guns on display which i guess is a good thing.. so they dont damage then noving them back n forth everyday.

Here it is after i polisjed it with mothers mag polish. I need to get sone 2000 or 3000 grit sand paper and polish th3 barrel better though. Where th3 wedge is on both sides its got millions of scratchs.. it wasnt sand polished properly there

20211020_184844.jpg
20211020_184820.jpg
 
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Newtire

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Did i miss something? Of course you should buy it. There's no down side to buying that beauty. If you pass on it there is only regret. If on the very miniscule possibilty that you dont like it(lol) im certain you can get your $ back reselling it.
Do like I sometimes do, buy them both. Just put some newspaper in the bottoms of those shoes.
 

CaptainKirk

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I pinch them and i cock and decock th3 hammer and push it on the cap hard to seat it more fully.
Here's a better idea; use a short piece of dowel rod to seat the caps rather than the hammer. On the (very) rare chance you set one off with the hammer, the blowback from the hammer can do some damage to your thumb, and generally you have little, if any, muzzle control when doing it that way. With the dowel, you are able to hold the gun pointing downrange and no metal contact is going on.

The only malfunctions i get are after the guns get grimey from say 3-4 cylinders worth they start to cap jam and the cylinder starts to bind. the brass 1851 seems to be able to go the longest at about 6 cylinders worth before it jams and binds and needs a quick relube and wipe down. The steel 1851 gets jammed and binds after 3 or 4.
Brass is a better bearing surface than steel, which is why brassers usually have slicker action out of the box.

The remingtons though get bound up and jammed after the 2nd cylinder. Im nit a fan of those guns and if i had to choose between the two for a self defense situation it would deff not be remington.
Why? In a defense situation you're pretty much limited to what's in the chamber. If 5 aren't enough, carry your 1911 and an extra mag. You are not gonna be reloading a BP revolver of any ilk in a defense situation.

The action feels rough, hammer is rough feeling, spring tension is too much even when you losen That screw.
True; some Remingtons are just rougher than others. I suggest you try the Wolff reduced tension mainspring on yours. You might be surprised.
 

Candymancan

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Here's a better idea; use a short piece of dowel rod to seat the caps rather than the hammer. On the (very) rare chance you set one off with the hammer, the blowback from the hammer can do some damage to your thumb, and generally you have little, if any, muzzle control when doing it that way. With the dowel, you are able to hold the gun pointing downrange and no metal contact is going on.



Brass is a better bearing surface than steel, which is why brassers usually have slicker action out of the box.

Why? In a defense situation you're pretty much limited to what's in the chamber.

True; some Remingtons are just rougher than others. I suggest you try the Wolff reduced tension mainspring on yours. You might be surprised.
I just also dont want cap missfires with a lighter spring. But maybe ill try that.. the renington spring just feels unnecessarilly tense compared to colt.

IF i had to chose between remington and my 1851 colts.. Id easily chose the colts

I actually do carry them sometimes. I dont do 5 i do 6 btw. Percussion caps arent like primers with a pin sitting on them. It would be impossible to set a cap off by smacking your hand on the hammer. It really needs full spring force. Ive tested this and there isa video on youtube of a guy testing this. He even smacked his hammer hard multiple times with a rubber mallet.. and did half cock on the caps and all it did was dent them.

Then need a swift and very hard impact to go off.

Anyway. Ill try out the spring you mentioned. Also youre right i figured brass was a better metal for slickness/bearing. It explains probly why when i spin the cylinder by hand in half cock it spins for like 5 seconds before it stops. The steel just spins like 1 seconds and its done.

I dunno whu the reningtons jam and bind up so much though. I really think theyre inferior to the colts. The colt having grooves in the arbor to hold grease. And riding on that ring. Is better than no grooves and th3 front of the cylinder touching that pin face on the frame of the remington. And the entire cylinder face sitting on the back frane gives more surface area for gunk to jam it.

The remingtons though werent machined as well as my colts from pietta. I had to take a file and file inside where the hammer slides against. You know th3 brass framing on both sides if the hammer. It was so rough this is what was causing the hammer to feel rough and gritty.

That helped alot.. but still
 
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