Continual trouble inserting Uberti 1858 cylinder

I have a new Uberti 1858. It's easy to remove the cylinder but real tricky getting it back into the frame. The hammer is at the half cock position, with the bolt completely down in it's slot and I'm inserting the cylinder on the right side of the frame. The problem appears to be the hand protrudes a fairly good distance out from it's slot and prevents the cylinder from easily being inserted back into the frame. I've tried the trick of inserting the cylinder and slightly rotating it clockwise but the hand is very hard to depress in it's slot. Could this be because the hand spring is overly tension-ed because it's a new part? Also, the hand has a very sharp point. Could this sharp point on the hand be contributing to the problem? I'm not about to tinker around with the hand unless someone in the forum has any experience in possibly modifying the hand to alleviate this problem. Any suggested mods or techniques that I haven't tried to insert the cylinder from forum members would be appreciated.

 

I put the cylinder into the frame from the right side. You want to just start to pull the hammer so the bolt falls but the hand is not yet coming out of the frame then roll the cylinder into place.

 

Hold the revolver with the barrel pointing straight up to help keep the cylinder from falling too far into the frame and hanging up. It is easier to control the cylinder this way for me while you rotate it into position.

 

jdn262: also have a new-ish '58 uberti with the same "pointy" hand. Same problem inserting the cylinder the conventional way. See the pic? A probe is pointing to the opening of a notch on the rear of the cylinder. What I do is insert the cylinder from the left side of the frame. Don't pull back on the hammer yet. Wiggle the cylinder until the pointy end of the hand slides into that notch and then pull the hammer back before the half cock. The cylinder can then be "rolled" into place. The gun locks up tighter than any revolver I have or have owned (except a colt diamondback) so I don't feel the need to "fix" it.

 

I also have a Uberti 1858 that I purchased about a year and a half ago. Same problem as above. It never goes back into the frame without a fight. Has the same sharp pointed hand that seems to catch the rear of the cylinder. This 1858 has been a problem child from new. Loading lever link broke loading the second cylinder full. Have a loading press but with the PIA getting cylinder back in not inclined to use it. I much prefer the ease of removing and replacing the cylinders on the Colts. This particular revolver has ruined me on the Remington.

 

Yeah, I thought about giving up my Uberti 1858 as I described the cylinder-to-frame hassle in my thread. I'll probably will keep it as I got it at a gun shop at a close out price when the owner retired. Zonie and Tobee described their method of inserting the cylinder in my thread and either method does make a difference. It's just getting accustomed to the trick of inserting the cylinder. Like you, I have a cylinder loading press. Interestingly, I have absolutely no problem dropping out or re-inserting the cylinder in my Ruger Old Army.

 

Have what I guess are the older Uberti 1858s (plus Piettas and original Remingtons) and have no issues swapping cylinders. One thing I will comment on is when pointing the gun straight up it may allow the cylinder pin to drop into place while the cylinder is out of the frame. Better to keep gun nearer to level.

And here is Clint showing us how he does it with his Hollywood 1858 prop gun (disregard the conversion cylinders that we don’t discuss here).

 

I hold it with left hand right side down on half cock then roll the cylinder clockwise as it's put in. Best thing to do is practice at it. It's one of those things that once you get the right feel for it it's easy.

 

You are correct about practicing. I got it out and spent some time practicing and have it mastered finally I think. Took my problematic 1858 to range today. Did not take press so used .451 ball for ease of loading. Only problem was #11 CCI caps were to big. Fired first shot and the other 5 fell off. Switched to Remington # 10 and they would not seat far enough to go off on first hammer fall.

 

Use a piece of dowel rod to push the primer down to seat it.
Most all pistols other than walker and some Dragoons use #11. My Uberti Dragoon happens to use #10.
Rifles typically use #11.

 

Pietta/Traditions specify #10 in the manual. Note that #10 primer physical size will vary among manufacturers.

 

I agree.

The Colt’s is such a superior design, I oft wonder why the Remington is even still produced. The Colt’s handles fouling perfectly, has a strong loading lever, cylinders go on and off with no fuss, look 100x better, the list goes on and on.

Ditch the ugly stupid Remington trash and pick up a Colt’s. You won’t be going back!

 

I have a Uberti 1858 and I had trouble replacing the cylinder in my first few attempts. After finding a "how to" on the internet regarding replacing the cylinder, it is no longer an issue for me. While inserting the cylinder give it a slight clockwise turn as it contacts the hand and it will slip right in. It works for me.

 

I own shoot and have no problems with my three ugly stupid non colt trash 1858's.

Dave

 

I shoot both colts and 58's. I have an early stainless Uberti 1858 that had a problem with the cylinder axle passing through the cylinder and not seating in the frame. The cylinder operated free after it was installed. The axle had micro burrs on the frame end and a touch with a jewelers file with a smite of lithium grease solved the problem. Yes the cylinder is tight, the way I prefer it. I never load my pistols with the loading lever unless I am in the field. I have a loading stand (homemade) that loads the cylinder off the weapon. A lot of early brass framed revolvers got loose cylinders. I always contributed the fact with the pressure of the loading lever pressure on the frame, and not the actual shooting.