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Considering a Double

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White Oak

40 Cal.
Joined
Dec 27, 2012
Messages
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Location
E. Nebraska
I have been looking at the Pedersoli doubles for a while now. I especially like the waterfowl 10 ga.
A couple of questions for you guys that have them. Are the early models safe for steel shot? Oh yeah, I know about steel and the lack of velocity necessary for clean kills. I currently shoot a single barrel and have killed ducks and geese at in your face ranges around 15yds. BBBs at that range will do the job. Just requires patience and letting those outside of 20 fly for next time. All part of the fun. Also, are the chrome lined barrels a big deal?
This is general to any double .Do you guys experience load creep in the unfired barrel? Have you had the shot move away from the powder in the second barrel after firing the first? If so what is the fix? I don't see many advantages to a double gun if you have to stop and check the second barrel before shooting as is recommended in a manual that I read.
The max load for these seems to be 1 1/2 oz. of shot and 109 grains of powder. This is not a heavy load for a 10ga. My 12 gauge max is1 3/8 and 100gr. I am really surprised that the waterfowl model wasn't built with a little extra heft to absorb some recoil. My unmentionable 10ga double that has been retired since steel shot was pushing 2oz. but weighs around 13lbs. Seems that the Pedersolis are about 7 1/2.
Appreciate your opinions guys.
Ed
 
Lore is that the older, non chrome lined barrels require a plastic shot cup to protect them when using steel. The newer chrome-lined not so much. Doesn’t make a lot of sense to me. Pedersoli said directly that the chrome-lining was for anti-corrosion purposes, is a thin coating and is nearly the same harness as the steel. I’ve shot some regular Copper coated BB gun BB’s out of my chrome-lined and don’t see any indication of a scarring. I did switch to Bismuth after made 25-shots with the steel BBs.

I have 3 Pedersolis and one other brand. 3 different . I typically use one over-shot thin card. Never had the second charge move. I make sure I get or make a diameter that is slightly tight going down, I can feel rubbing and resistance. When waterfowl hunting I sometimes use the thicker over-powder card but I put it over the shot. It’s less likely to move and should be able to resist a heavier load. My main reason is because I think it will do a better job of keeping any water from being past.
 
The older Pedersoli guns, 70's and early 80's manufacture, didn't have choke systems, maybe an improved cylinder in one bore.

I don't have a Pedersoli...I have a Pieta...late 70's manufacture, no choke on either bore and its been great on geese. I shoot Steel "T" shot in my goose loads. And I have taken geese out to 30, 35 yrds. You'll want to foul the bores when hunting for that first shot.

As a firearm, the 10 gauge can be loaded down and used effectively for doves & quail; a little stouter load and it works great on Pheasants. Anything that you can hunt with a smoothbore I've hunted with my 10 gauge. I think mine weighs about as much as my Ruger Red label...to give you some comparative perspective.

I bought my 10 gauge in the mid 90's, as strictly a waterfowl gun. I intended to pick up a 12 gauge later for everything else...After hunting with my 10 gauge for several years, and experiencing the versatility of the gun; I just never felt the need to get the 12 gauge, I still don't have one.

I do have a 20 gauge Pedersoli Upland Game, English Stocked Double Barrel that is a simple pleasure to take out in the field and hunt Quail, Doves, Rabbits and Squirrels etc. It is very light, with light loads being the rule for this gun. The gun is very maneuverable, and handles better than any shotgun I own, modern or BlackPowder. The gun is a mid 70's manufacture, I would say if you come across one of those in good to excellent condition...BUY IT.
 
With regard to the second barrel's shot load moving after shooting the first barrel, use a bigger diameter card or use two or three of the overshot cards you already have & see if that helps. Most shooters are using wads & cards that are too small, IMHO. I like my cards to be .030" larger than the "actual bore size", but most of the store bought standard gauge cards or only .010". Need to measure the bore on shotguns as a 10 ga. could actually be closer to an 11 or 9 gauge, depending on the maker & when it was made.
 
There's little shooting habits that you'll develop when shooting a double barrel. I worried about the load shifting in the un-shot bore, so I always tamped that bore as I was loading the spent bore...Loading two bores and not making a mistake....takes practice and developing a system.
 
I bought a Pedersoli 10 gauge SxS a couple of months ago. Mine is a waterfowl edition and has a full fixed choke and a modified fixed choke.
I haven’t seen any shot creep yet while working up turkey loads and informal range shooting.

My full choke barrel is too tight for a nitro card so I use four overshot cards over the powder and a wool wad for the overshot. Throws a great turkey pattern at 25 yards.

I hope to work up some goose loads before next season. I’m thinking about using Bismuth though. Good luck and let us know how it patterns.
 
Thanks for the info so far. You guys are not helping me keep my money in my pocket but I asked.
I have heard that the bore diameters are closer to 11ga. For those that have used shot cups is there any issue in getting a standard 10 gauge cup into the barrels? How about past the improved cylinder or modified choked barrel? Also what are your feelings about an older guns quality versus new? In some cases older is better. Just ask us old guys. I have heard of POI problems with the Pedersoli doubles. I believe this is more of an issue with screw in chokes tubes which the guns I am looking at are fixed chokes Might be able to resolve that issue with a new gun. Not so much with used. Are you satisfied with the locks and triggers?
To further complicate matters I am still looking at the Mortimer flinter in 12 ga. But I really love the big 10s.
Take care,
Ed
 
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I gave up using shot-cups a long time ago. I took a month during the summer and developed loads that pattern nicely at 35 to 45 yrds…for geese. They hit hard, they pound you a bit…but they work very nice. After 15 years of use…I see no damage in my bores. But my guns do not have chokes…I would not run my loads through a gun that has choked barrels.
 
As long as your overshot card creates a vacuum seal, pushes back some, the vacuum works both ways. Hard to push down and hard to dislodge.
if your cards are too small to feel the vacuum push back, just shove a 1/2 inch lubed fiber wad on top, that’s snug enough to hold.
 
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My Pedersoli is a 12 gauge from 1996 with the chrome bores and choke tubes. I haven't hunted waterfowl with it so all my experience has been with lead shot. Good ignition with good patterns that arrive at the point of aim.

No problems with charges moving in the unfired barrel. I believe the heaviest charges I've used are 80-90 grs. FFg by volume with 1 1/4 oz. of whatever lead. Not as heavy as waterfowl loads but not light either.

As previously mentioned, determine a loading routine that doesn't leave you with two charges of powder in one barrel and two charges of shot in the other. I 'index' with the ramrod by 'storing' it in one barrel while charging its mate.

I found mine roughly twenty years ago when Cabela's still had the bargain cave. Unfired for $300.
 
Newer Pedersoli shotguns have the recommended max load right on the bottom of the barrel. The 12g with screw in choke will days 1 1/4 ounce. I have an chrome lined 12 gauge without screw in chokes that is just slightly older marked 1 1/8 ounce. My 1970’s 12g marked Navy Arms is not marked with a load. Neither is my 20g from 2014. When buying a 10g, look for the load on the barrels to make sure it’ll do what you want.
 
I did huge amount of pheasant hunting and trap shooting with a Ped 12 using shot cups and milk carton overshots. Bores not chromed. Both require rapid reloading sometimes under less than perfect conditions. Never had a load creep even with a rare bit of moose milk. I think after the first shots the fouling helps keep everything in place even when bouncing around the rice checks in hot pursuit of runners.
 
I did huge amount of pheasant hunting and trap shooting with a Ped 12 using shot cups and milk carton overshots. Bores not chromed. Both require rapid reloading sometimes under less than perfect conditions. Never had a load creep even with a rare bit of moose milk. I think after the first shots the fouling helps keep everything in place even when bouncing around the rice checks in hot pursuit of runners.
I love a post that has so much in it..
 
I love a post that has so much in it..
When trained as engineer you tend to do that. Running full bore up and down rough rice checks is now just a fond and distant memory. I will say reloading on the run using cups, brass flask, shot snake with English shot charger was amazing. Capping was the hard part. Yes I got most of the birds and even an occasional double.
 
I will soon (tomorrow) take possession of a Pedersoli 20 ga. double FLINTLOCK. I will post impressions after it arrives.

ADK Bigfoot
Wow!! Would love to see it. Flint doubles always make me think of actually being allowed to handle this:

https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/23950

Speaking of ancient memories I had just got a sucessful "double" with the Ped 12 percussion. Another hunter actually ran over to see if i was alright due to all the smoke. I cannot imagine a double with a flint.
 
Short response is: "What Hawkeye Owl said."
Longer: I own a number of the Pedersoli SxS's. The only one that has shown load creep was the 20 gauge, which mic'ed out as 19 gauge. The immediate fix was 2 overshot cards. More finally, I ordered 19 gauge overshot cards from TOW, and no issues since.

I ahve an old Pedersoli 10 gauge, which weighs about 6 pounds 10 ounces unloaded--not really a waterfowler. The newer guns are about a pound more, and virtually all that weight is in the barrels in the chamber area.
 
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