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Completed Woods runner fully dressed.

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I ordered this during Kiblers pre-order back in May. Assembled the kit as most have done in 5-6 hours. Finish and carving took significantly more time. Rifle is 54 caliber. Stock is a standard grade sugar maple stock with some heart wood showing at the wrist and on the fore end. Finished the wood with tanic acid and iron nitrate then rubbed back stain. Finished with tried and true varnish oil 4 coats topped with a good wood wax. Metal finished with JAX Black on both iron and brass then rubbed back. Carving done was add fore stock molding and final, butt stock molding, lock panels, tang carving, comb carving, patch box carving, and cheek piece carving. All was a mix of incised and relief carving.Fore stock final was a relief cared curve transitioning to an incised carved curve with some chip carving extending back. Patch box lid was done with incised border and finals. Cheek piece was done with incised carving at the leading edge, incised lines on the cheek piece extending back to the first curl and a relief carved line transitioning to an incised carved curl at the rear. Remainder of carving is all relief carving for lock panels , tang carving and head of comb carving. Can't wait to sight her in and give here a name!
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That is one beautiful build! And appreciate the detailed description of the wood finishing. I’m a new builder, and that knowledge is invaluable to me.

Carving - And the carving adds some great design elements!

Front Sight - Especially impressed how you have the sight filed flush. That looks amazing! Would you mind sharing the secret of how you did that?

Caliber - I am wrapping up a Kiber Colonial in .54. Debating doing the new one, Woodsrunner, in .50 as there seems to be more loading options available. What is your thought on the two choices?

Thanks!
 
Nice job all around!
I see you put a brass plate on the patch box lid. I am assembling my Woodsrunner and having a hard time with that. WHen I did my colonial it wasn't hard at all but the Woodsrunner has a curve to the patchbox lid that you have to take out to get the plate to lay flat. I would love to see a close up of yours. From what I can see it looks great.
Jim said don't do it in the youtube videos but.....
I also tried brass end plate on box lid . It was very tedious and trying but managed to get it done . You are working with two curves and a bend in the Opposite direction. If doing from scratch the shape of the lid would be differently shaped with less curve going front and slightly straighter in the back so would make it much easier to do . I think Jim after seriously looking at the situation for people wanting to add end plate will change the shape slightly which would make it easier to do and for people who don’t want brass end plate on lid can easily change shape if they would want to.
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JT
You did a wonderful job on the end plate. The trick to the end plate is to first anneal the brass piece then use a 3/4" or 1 inch diameter round stock to curve the brass before fitting it to the box lid. This helps to eliminate the struggle with the compound curves.
 
JT
You did a wonderful job on the end plate. The trick to the end plate is to first anneal the brass piece then use a 3/4" or 1 inch diameter round stock to curve the brass before fitting it to the box lid. This helps to eliminate the struggle with the compound curves.
Thanks . And yes annealing should be done I didn’t and it made it harder to do. Next time😁
 
Good job on the box lid brass piece. Only one suggestion
... File it more to thin the top edge to about 2/3 of the current thickness. Almost everybody leaves this too thick.

Jim
Thanks . Yes I have intentions to do that. It is just roughly done. Thanks again for the comment and ur kits are THE BEST. The precision is sooo impressive. And they really shoot. Can’t ask for anymore
 
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