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Complete Cleaning?

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LME

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I just took the lock out of one of my caplock rifles for the first time since I bought it new over 5 years ago. It had absolutely no fouling or powder residue on it & looked like it had just been installed at the factory. Even had some of the original oil visible. Is this unusual? I see where some here clean the lock every time they shoot. Why do their's get dirty & mine doesn't? It is a Lyman GPR. Are they different some how?
you have had the same results that I have experienced. I have a Ithaca hawkin I bought in 1985 and I don't think the lock on it has ever been removed. It shoots so well that I dare not touch it unless I abolutely have to.
 

renegadehunter

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I rarely remove mine, maybe once every two years. It always looks pretty clean inside, I probably shoot it 6-8 times a year around 15-20 shots each time.
I think the most common neglected spot having to do with the lock is the inside of the hammer cup.
I was a bit intimidated the first time I pulled mine apart, but I had to because it had broken the end of the sear off. Just make sure to match the flat head slot with a properly sized driver. It shouldn't be tightened down very much anyway, I take mine to barely snug and then back it off a half turn.
When I clean it I just use warm water and a toothbrush. I get it good and dry and then apply a drop of Hoppes gun oil to a q-tip and hit the wear points. Don't get too much on it, it will just collect crud if there's too much.
 

Okie Hog

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About yearly i remove the locks from my percussion guns, spray the internals with brake cleaner then lube with WD-40. Rock locks need more attention.
 

Spikebuck

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I take my lock off every time and clean it with a toothbrush. I then soak it in WD40 as in "Water Displacement 40". That's not my lube on the lock. While I clean my barrel, I Iet the lock sit there well soaked in WD40. I then wipe all the WD40 off and use a small amount of synthetic gun grease in key spots for the internals.

IMACFROG: to ensure I do not cross thread the lock bolts when re-installing...I ALWAYS screw them in by hand (finger tips actually). That ensures I can instantly feel if they aren't starting right. I only use the screwdriver to finally snug them down (not wrench on them).
 

Carbon 6

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I just took the lock out of one of my caplock rifles for the first time since I bought it new over 5 years ago. It had absolutely no fouling or powder residue on it & looked like it had just been installed at the factory. Even had some of the original oil visible. Is this unusual?
Been the norm for me.
 

bigted

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When I remove my locks ... I also do the old toothbrush under as hot water as I can stand. Then blow dry with compressed air followed by spraying WD 40 till it drips.

Hang the lock by the hammer or cock and let drip dry. Folloed by lubing with Rem Oil ... green spray can ... never had any rust problems nor the need to disassemble unless there is a mechanical problem.

Install the lock carefully and straight. Tighten the mounting screws only till semi tight. Never reef on any gun part or screw.
 
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