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Cleaning

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Joined
Sep 15, 2022
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Being a complete Newbie to muzzle-loading I am trying to be totally prepared prior to going out and firing the gun. I believe I now have everything to be able to shoot the gun so my concerns have now turned to what to do after shooting. I have and Navy Arms SxS 12 ga that is in great condition from 1982 or thereabout. What I'm concerned about is after shooting it a bit what do I need to do about cleaning the bore,etc? I will be using Pyrodex RS powder, as it is all I can get at this time in my area, along with lead shot for now and later Bismuth. Going to try different load combinations including the SkyChief load as well as a load using the Ox-Yoke wads.

So with all of that said what do I need to do to clean the gun after shooting or can one of you awesome and most helpful folks direct me to the appropriate information if it already exists somewhere? I'm almost certain someone has written detailed instructions but I have yet to find them.

Thanks in advance.
 
Fortunately, @bsoccer, you have a hooked breech shotgun. It is simple to remove the wedge and ramrod the lift the barrels from the stock. I recommend removing the nipples so that when you put the breech of your shotgun into the cleaning solution which is almost any grease cutting dish washing soap and warm water. You will benefit by using a sturdy cleaning rod with a jag that fits the bore and grips the cleaning patch. You should have a nipple wrench to remove the nipples. Pyrodex fouling can be removed with soap and water and there is little danger of the dreaded Pyrodex rusting if the gun is cleaned, lubricated and protected.

My method is one of the many variations that are being used by members on the Forum.

So, for cleaning you need these materials, a bucket of warm water, a few squirts of dish washing soap, a cleaning rod, a jag and some cleaning patches to clean the bore. Remove the nipples and flush the breeches by pumping water through the breech with the rod and cleaning jag. Get both barrels clean. Dispose of the water. I use the water on the plants at home. Fill the bucket with clean water and flush the barrels again to remove residual salts and fouling. The water should be pretty clear by now. I like to use a couple of patches soaked with rubbing alcohol to displace residual water in the breech. Sure, WD40 works too, but rubbing alcohol is every bit as effective and cheaper. Dry the barrel with dry patches. An optional step would be to use a patch soaked with Ballistol. This seems to find fouling that somehow other may have been missed. Most often all the fouling has been removed, but I use the Ballistol patch anyway. The final step for the barrels is to protect the bore with a rust inhibiting lubricant such as Barricade or Boeshield. These dry with a thin layer of rust inhibitor to protect the bore.

You don't need to remove the locks to get them clean. With an old toothbrush and small rag, clean the locks with the soap and water. You have to be very thorough to get all the Pyrodex fouling removed. Wipe with an alcohol or WD40 wet patch to displace the water. At this time, I like to put a little bit of grease on the rubbing parts and the threads of the nipples before reinstalling them.

Assemble the shotgun and store the gun with muzzles down. Any moisture will drain from the breeches. In a day or two, run a cleaning patch with the rust inhibiting lubricant to catch any fouling that may be left and pulled out by your first pass with the lubricants.

A lot of good information can be found in this topic:
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/tables-useful-information-thread-links.125795/
One topic missing however, is the topic on detailed cleaning of a muzzleloading firearm.
 
Last edited:
Fortunately, @bsoccer, you have hooked breech shotgun. It is simple to remove the wedge and ramrod the lift the barrels from the stock. I recommend removing the nipples so that when you put the breech of your shotgun into the cleaning solution which is almost any grease cutting dish washing soap and warm water. You will benefit by using a sturdy cleaning rod with a jag that fits the bore and grips the cleaning patch. You should have a nipple wrench to remove the nipples. Pyrodex fouling can be removed with soap and water and there is little danger of the dreaded Pyrodex rusting if the gun is cleaned, lubricated and protected.

My method is one of the many variations that are being used by members on the Forum.

So, for cleaning you need these materials, a bucket of warm water, a few squirts of dish washing soap, a cleaning rod, a jag and some cleaning patches to clean the bore. Remove the nipples and flush the breeches by pumping water through the breech with the rod and cleaning jag. Get both barrels clean. Dispose of the water. I use the water on the plants at home. Fill the bucket with clean water and flush the barrels again to remove residual salts and fouling. The water should be pretty clear by now. I like to use a couple of patches soaked with rubbing alcohol to displace residual water in the breech. Sure, WD40 works too, but rubbing alcohol is every bit as effective and cheaper. Dry the barrel with dry patches. An optional step would be to use a patch soaked with Ballistol. This seems to find fouling that somehow other may have been missed. Most often all the fouling has been removed, but I use the Ballistol patch anyway. The final step for the barrels is to protect the bore with a rust inhibiting lubricant such as Barricade or Boeshield. These dry with a thin layer of rust inhibitor to protect the bore.

You don't need to remove the locks to get them clean. With an old toothbrush and small rag, clean the locks with the soap and water. You have to be very thorough to get all the Pyrodex fouling removed. Wipe with an alcohol or WD40 wet patch to displace the water. At this time, I like to put a little bit of grease on the rubbing parts and the threads of the nipples before reinstalling them.

Assemble the shotgun and store the gun with muzzles down. Any moisture will drain from the breeches. In a day or two, run a cleaning patch with the rust inhibiting lubricant to catch any fouling that may be left and pulled out by your first pass with the lubricants.

A lot of good information can be found in this topic:
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/tables-useful-information-thread-links.125795/
One topic missing however, is the topic on detailed cleaning of a muzzleloading firearm.
So this process should be followed after each outing? I am sure that I will get the hang of it soon. Thank you for your response.
 
Being a complete Newbie to muzzle-loading I am trying to be totally prepared prior to going out and firing the gun. I believe I now have everything to be able to shoot the gun so my concerns have now turned to what to do after shooting. I have and Navy Arms SxS 12 ga that is in great condition from 1982 or thereabout. What I'm concerned about is after shooting it a bit what do I need to do about cleaning the bore,etc? I will be using Pyrodex RS powder, as it is all I can get at this time in my area, along with lead shot for now and later Bismuth. Going to try different load combinations including the SkyChief load as well as a load using the Ox-Yoke wads.

So with all of that said what do I need to do to clean the gun after shooting or can one of you awesome and most helpful folks direct me to the appropriate information if it already exists somewhere? I'm almost certain someone has written detailed instructions but I have yet to find them.

Thanks in advance.
Good info on cleaning here already. I will note that retailers cannot put Black powder out where buyers can see it (go figure). It has to be kept separately in a locked safe. You have to ask for it. Cabelas and Bass Pro Shops do carry it. It can also be ordered on-line from Powder Inc, Graff and Son, Maine Powderhouse, etc. It way more reasonable if you buy 10 or 25 pounds (as us addicted types do). I bring this up, because black powder is so much more consistent in lock time than substitutes for wing shooting and clay shooting.

I think that your 1982 is an early production light gun, probably under 6 pounds--a very nice gun to carry and shoot (and not that many around).

Best of luck and enjoyment with it.
 
Fortunately, @bsoccer, you have a hooked breech shotgun. It is simple to remove the wedge and ramrod the lift the barrels from the stock. I recommend removing the nipples so that when you put the breech of your shotgun into the cleaning solution which is almost any grease cutting dish washing soap and warm water. You will benefit by using a sturdy cleaning rod with a jag that fits the bore and grips the cleaning patch. You should have a nipple wrench to remove the nipples. Pyrodex fouling can be removed with soap and water and there is little danger of the dreaded Pyrodex rusting if the gun is cleaned, lubricated and protected.

My method is one of the many variations that are being used by members on the Forum.

So, for cleaning you need these materials, a bucket of warm water, a few squirts of dish washing soap, a cleaning rod, a jag and some cleaning patches to clean the bore. Remove the nipples and flush the breeches by pumping water through the breech with the rod and cleaning jag. Get both barrels clean. Dispose of the water. I use the water on the plants at home. Fill the bucket with clean water and flush the barrels again to remove residual salts and fouling. The water should be pretty clear by now. I like to use a couple of patches soaked with rubbing alcohol to displace residual water in the breech. Sure, WD40 works too, but rubbing alcohol is every bit as effective and cheaper. Dry the barrel with dry patches. An optional step would be to use a patch soaked with Ballistol. This seems to find fouling that somehow other may have been missed. Most often all the fouling has been removed, but I use the Ballistol patch anyway. The final step for the barrels is to protect the bore with a rust inhibiting lubricant such as Barricade or Boeshield. These dry with a thin layer of rust inhibitor to protect the bore.

You don't need to remove the locks to get them clean. With an old toothbrush and small rag, clean the locks with the soap and water. You have to be very thorough to get all the Pyrodex fouling removed. Wipe with an alcohol or WD40 wet patch to displace the water. At this time, I like to put a little bit of grease on the rubbing parts and the threads of the nipples before reinstalling them.

Assemble the shotgun and store the gun with muzzles down. Any moisture will drain from the breeches. In a day or two, run a cleaning patch with the rust inhibiting lubricant to catch any fouling that may be left and pulled out by your first pass with the lubricants.

A lot of good information can be found in this topic:
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/tables-useful-information-thread-links.125795/
One topic missing however, is the topic on detailed cleaning of a muzzleloading firearm.
I do pretty much the same but just use appropriately sized mop for the bore instead of a jag.
 
I used pyrodex for years.
Don't panic.
But do use plenty of water. The hotter the better.
You need water to dissolve and wash away the salts that promote corrosion.
Don't worry about so called flash rusting. It is a mere tarnishing and can be removed easily. A small bucket to put the breech in so you can pump water in and out via rod is good.

Now, if you can obtain beeswax and olive oil you can protect your bores easily and if used during shooting it will also help after shooting should cleaning be delayed.
What ever you do, enjoy it and don't get all anxious about cleaning. If you use hot water all will be well.
 
Great info from all , but there’s always more than one way too skin a cat….

I use a brew of blue windshield washer fluid mixed 50/50 With Mr.Clean…

Works great & no heating required.

Just plug the nipple/touch hole and fill the bore let it sit while you clean and lube the lock…
Dump the barrel & repeat with 1/2 the amount of the brew , Place your thumb over the barrels bore and slosh the mixture back and forth 4 or 5 times .
Dump the barrel again and patch until clean..
I alternate between the brew & 91% alcohol patches until I get clean patches, then I apply Barricade inside & out before storage..

Welcome too the Forum 👍

Looking forward too your first bp range report!
Powder, patch , ball…🥴👍
 
As a tap water user for cleaning the bore (sometimes with a drop of Dawn) I have no complaints of this method but have on occasion strayed a bit and tried a few things others prefer. In short most everything works although some are too complicated for my taste.
 
I started muzzleloading in the early 70's and was told for years to never use liquid soap and always use slivered hand soap in hot water. Why, I don't know, but have followed along and have been obedient for 50 years. Is it a wives-tale or not?
 
Old wives tale.

Most everything works for cleaning from simply tap water. Read all the accolades for Dawn dish detergent (any grease cutting soap will do) to all manner of exotic cleaners. As long as the fouling is removed and rust is inhibited then the cleaning regimen is good.
 
I'm sure you're right, but I worked for a large industrial manufacturing company who used thousands of gallons of dish soap in their product. They would purchase semi's full three or four times a year in 55 gallon metal containers before they started using plastic totes. Those metal barrels would be eaten away by that liquid soap. Of course I am sure it was a concentrate, but never the less I never used the liquid because of what I had seen there and what the old buck skinners of old (the late 60s and early 70s vintage) had said. 😊 :):)
 
I suspect a product like Dawn which is very effective at cutting grease leaves very little oil residue behind so if you don’t do a good job of reapplying oil you can get rust. Old fashion soap also cuts grease but may not be quite as effective. Having said that, I’ve used Dawn and other detergents with water for many years without a problem. Rinse, dry and something to protect the metal is the key whether it is oil, grease or Barricade or some other product.
 
I'm a rebel when it comes to cleaning my flintlocks and never use water. I use a gun cleaning solvent and protectant and clean it like any other gun, although I do use a scraper for breech plug. The reason they used water is because they didn't have the wonderful gun cleaning solvents we do today... Oh and I only use real black powder in them as well, that is not so rebellious....
 
Being a complete Newbie to muzzle-loading I am trying to be totally prepared prior to going out and firing the gun. I believe I now have everything to be able to shoot the gun so my concerns have now turned to what to do after shooting. I have and Navy Arms SxS 12 ga that is in great condition from 1982 or thereabout. What I'm concerned about is after shooting it a bit what do I need to do about cleaning the bore,etc? I will be using Pyrodex RS powder, as it is all I can get at this time in my area, along with lead shot for now and later Bismuth. Going to try different load combinations including the SkyChief load as well as a load using the Ox-Yoke wads.

So with all of that said what do I need to do to clean the gun after shooting or can one of you awesome and most helpful folks direct me to the appropriate information if it already exists somewhere? I'm almost certain someone has written detailed instructions but I have yet to find them.

Thanks in advance.
Percussion guns need to have the little passage-way from the nipple to the bore cleaned well, as over time it will corrode up. Rinse, rinse, rinse!
 
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