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Cleaning Traditions Crockett .32...repeatedly stuck jag

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MAP? Mmmm. Alcohol & Peroxide? Mead, applesauce and prune juice?

Milk, alcohol and plums? ... Blue Thunder, "moose milk," insert mixture of murphy's oil soap and whatever here...
 
The acronym, MAP, has been used quite often on the forum. Its almost to the point that many of us feel it is so familiar that we don't specify the ingredients.

So, another time; Murphy's Oil Soap, Rubbing Alcohol and Hydrogen Peroxide in equal quantities. Yes, it is sometimes called "Moose Milk" and sometimes water is substituted for the Hydrogen Peroxide due a concern that the extra oxygen in the peroxide may accelerate flash rust. Oh, yes, it cleans very well.
 
Moose milk ?

I guess the question I should have asked a long time ago is, "do your patches stick in a clean barrel too, or only a fouled one" ?

So, we seem to have ruled out all the equipment issues (yet I'm still suspect of the patch size ) that leaves your technique as the possible problem.
Technique is one of the things I changed. to solve my issue.

Try using M.A.P. instead of moose milk and swab the barrel in sections.
I squirt a little MAP down the barrel first, then swab. The key though is to swab in sections. Those little patches fill up with fouling quickly. As you near the bottom of the barrel, advance and retreat in short increments. This prevents the patch from sticking.
They stick with a clean barrel too, even when putting down some Barricade on a patch. Moose Milk is Dutch’s recipe (Dr5X)...which works just fine for me.
 
What I do is use undersized bronze brush and wrap the patch around it. Don't use the right size for caliber because the bristles will resist "reversing" on withdrawal. The patch can be soaked with whatever you are using to attack the fouling. The patch size can be used adjusted to give as tight of a fit as required. I've been known to use JB bore cleaner when dealing with stubborn fouling, it does a good job of smoothing things out without damaging the rifling.
 
They stick with a clean barrel too, even when putting down some Barricade on a patch. Moose Milk is Dutch’s recipe (Dr5X)...which works just fine for me.

Well, then we are back to the jag or the patches. Not only is size important, but the patch material itself makes a difference in really small calibers. A .32 can be finicky in that regard, one of the reasons I got rid of mine.

I wish you had a close up picture of your jag, and one with a patch on it. It could have saved a lot of typing.
If the patch covers more than the jag head it will likely stick.
I'd start playing around with the patch size, patch material, and jag size.

Also, do you run the patch down in short strokes, or do you just shove it straight to the bottom ?
 
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