cleaning pinned triggergroup

[Sunkmanitu Tanka]

Hallo all! Some time ago I asked help about preventing rust between a pinned barrel and stock. Now I have another question. My Pedersolis have a trigger group that can be removed by simple removing some screws. I did this about once a year, and it was really necessary because there was A LOT of fouling, one time to the point that triggers were hampered in their use. My TVM Pennsylvania has pinned triggers, and I use it weekly - I put about 1200 shots through it in a year... How do you keep your pinned trigger group clean? A spurt of WD40? Some compressed air? No maintenance at alle or dismantle it from time to time? I won't risk anything with this fine rifle! Your insight much appreciated!

 

[Rifleman1776]

A spurt of WD40?

Asked and self answered.

 

[Zonie]

The fouling you mention in your Pedersoli's confuses me.

If I was a piece of fouling, in order to get to the trigger or any part of it i would have to squeeze down between the lock and the barrel.
Now, that I'm behind the lock plate, I would have to find the 5/16" or 3/8" diameter hole in the stock where the lock sear arm passes to get to the trigger group.

Once there, I could deposit myself on the trigger group.
Although I have made it, most of my buddies who tried ended up plastered on the wooden lock mortise or on the back side of the lock.

Anyway, that doesn't answer your question.

If your talking about a simple, single trigger there is nothing there that can't handle fouling.

A steel trigger and a pin for it to rotate on.

The pin might be in the metal trigger plate or it might be just passing thru the stock wood.

In either case, there isn't much that fouling can harm much.

Because the trigger or trigger group is pinned, I suggest you leave it alone and maybe give a shot of a spray lube or WD40 up along the side of the trigger where it passes thru the trigger plate.

Don't use too much oil. It will be getting on the stock wood as well as the trigger and oil soaked wood isn't a good thing.

 

[Stumpkiller]

I've never had any fouling in the trigger mortise or sear opening of my three pinned trigger flintlocks.

You have an inletting problem on the sideplate if fouling is getting behind the lock and all the way back to the sear. Try bedding the sideplate tighter to the barrel. Or flipping the firearm vent down over an old towel with the lock removed and the muzzle below the breech when you clean it.

WD-40 displaces water. Fouling is another problem. Why soak the stock with thin diesel oil? There were solutions long before 1953 (when WD-40 was introduced).

 

[Rifleman1776]

WD-40 displaces water. Fouling is another problem.

We're off and running again.....

WD-40 is a pure petroleum product that unsticks, cleans most gunk and lightly lubes in addition to it's excellent moisture displacing qualities. Just the thing he needs for his little issue. (if not overused)

 

[Pete G]

I believe that I would first check the screwdriver slot in the vent liner. If it is anywhere close to vertical it will give a path for fouling to get behind the lock.

 

[Sunkmanitu Tanka]

The spray cans of WD 40 are delivered with a fine and long flexible tube. When I removed the lock, I inserted it into a hole that gave out to the double triggers. When I gave a short squirt, I noticed that there really was some fouling that came with it ...(I placed some toilet paper underneath that showed it)...
Now I had several Pedersoli flintlocks that needed a yearly cleaning of the triggergroup. On a Frontier model I once had problems caused by excessive fouling and had to replace a part. I gave up on these Italians and bought myself a fine Iron Pennsylvania from TVM of which I am very proud. This gun is the best I ever had in 40 years! To bad it is so costly and difficult to import one into Belgium... Since it is so important to really take care of this gun because of all this import mumbo jumbo, I want to avoid every possible malfunction ...That 's why I also asked about protection of te barrel underneath the stock and such... But the WD40 trick worked on the triggers, the barrel is protected and i am a happy camper! So once more a big thank you to all who helped me out here! :hatsoff:

 

[Stumpkiller]

WD-40 displaces water. Fouling is another problem.

We're off and running again.....

Just the thing he needs for his little issue. (if not overused)

We'll agree to disagree. "Need" is incorrect (350 years of flintlocks without it demonstrate); but it can be used if slightly soapy water and an alcohol damp patch is too inexpensive for you.

 

[Darkhorse]

Prevention is the key word here. If the fouling doesn't get there in the first place no extra cleaning is neccessary.
As someone else mentioned, you have a gap between the bolster and barrel. Not only will fouling get by but also prime. After awhile you can get enough prime that the lock gets blown off the rifle.
Years ago I had a GPR with this problem and the fix was simple. First the barrel was coated with wax, then vaseline in the lock area as a release agent. Then the bolster was cleaned with alcohol. I had on hand a tube of marine sealant and using a toothpick with sealant on the tip I ran a bead of sealant right along the top of the bolster and around the pan and back up to the bolster, until I had a bead with no gaps running the full topside of the bolster and lock plate. Then the lock was put back in the rifle and bolted tight against the sealant.
After 24 hours I removed the lock to check the bead and trim excess with a razor blade.
No more gap and the fix was virtually invisible.
This is a pretty common problem on factory rifles but it's easily corrected.

 

[Eric Krewson]

Yikes! Just inlet the lock slightly deeper for a proper fix and fit.

 

[Darkhorse]

Sometimes on factory rifles there is not room to inlet the lock deeper. Barrel interference etc.
Many owners are not rifle builders Eric, inletting a lock deeper is out of their comfort zone and experience.
If one has to ask a simple question then the simplest solution should be offered in return.

 

[Dane]

A lock MUST be inlet flush to the side of the barrel. If it is, there is no reason to get fouling inside the trigger/ lock area.

 

[Eric Krewson]

Sounds like this rifle wasn't assembled properly from the factory. If most every other similar rifles have a properly installed locks this one has room to be properly inletted as well.

I completely agree with your assessment of skill levels in some folk. I teach bow making and find the simplest tasks I direct for some folk sends them into panic mode.

Back before I built my first flintlock I bought a TC Hawken flinter to change from a percussion shooter to flint. I had never shot a flintlock before.

For some reason I pulled the lock to look inside and found that TC had set the lock in hot melt glue to fill an oversized inlet. When I pulled the lock the hot melt chunks fell out and the lock didn't fit right. I never considered fixing the inlet properly by glueing in shims because I didn't even know someone could do such a thing, I had no gun building skills or knowledge at all. I just shot the rifle like it was, bad lock fit an all.

I vowed never to own a TC gun again after seeing how poorly this one was put together but somehow ended up with two more. One I built from random parts and one I put together from an old kit that was gift to my dad 30+ years ago that he never put together. I still have the kit gun, an unshot gun safe queen that I keep because it was my dad's.

 

[mark/wi]

I had 2 new T/C with the hot glue. Returned and got a GPR. Very happy with it. I called T/C they told me if you do not like it do not buy them , so I did not.

 

[azmntman]

Excellent marketing :shake: :td: