• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Clean-out Port on T/C Hawken

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Trumpetman

32 Cal.
Joined
Jul 24, 2005
Messages
43
Reaction score
0
On the few occasions when I've dry-balled my Hawken .50 Cal., I was unable to use the clean-out port to pour in some 4f to blow out the ball. That's because the previous owners evidently never removed the plug for cleaning, and it got stuck, possible since it was manufactured (in about 1973). I finally got around to fixing that problem with a 31-cent set screw.
Here's the whole ball of wax for those who might want to change out their stuck clean-out plug.
I had tried to loosen the plug several times over the years, but it semed to be rusted in. Even the best-fitting gunsmith's screw driver was starting to booger-up the slot in the end.
Well, last month I got serious. I used a dab of liquid wrench every day for a week. I tapped the plug lightly several times a day until I finally got up enough nerve to "do-or-die" break the thing loose. At first the slot started to open up, and I was sure it would break, so I took a chance by lightly clamping vice grips to each side of the slot while holding the screw driver in place. With a little leverage from the vice grips and a twist of the screw driver handle, the plug started to turn, slowly at first -- then OUT!
I cleaned the threads of the clean-out port and the nipple, and I cleaned out the ignition chamber as never before. I oiled the threads and let the rifle set a day or so, and then dried out the oil.
The replacement plug I chose came in a two-pack for 62 cents at the local hardware store. It is set screw with an Allen head. For this particular gun, the size is 5/16" with 8-32 threads. I'm sure any 8-32, 5/16" plug will work, but this one was manufactured or distributed by "The Hillman Group, Inc. Cincinnati, OH 45231."
I keep a 5/16" allen wrench in the brass patch holder with some dry patches to keep it from rattling.
 
Thanks for this info, I have had the same problem with mine. Were the threads all corroded when you finally got the screw out? What did you do/use to clean all of it out when you did?
 
Those are not "clean out" screws. They are tiny bolts the manufacturer use as plugs after drilling the flash channel in the braach plug. They are not meant to be removed for cleaning. This is a very common misunderstanding. If you dry ball and need to pour in a small amount of powder or for cleaning, just remove the nipple. Cleaning your rifle with a bucket of warm soapy water, this will not only clean the bore, but will also flush any crud out of the flash channel. If you look at original rifles, there is no "clean out" screws.
 
cowpoke1955 said:
. If you dry ball and need to pour in a small amount of powder or for cleaning, just remove the nipple. Cleaning your rifle with a bucket of warm soapy water, this will not only clean the bore, but will also flush any crud out of the flash channel.
Gotta agree with all that.
I've had a few with that screw stuck, I just leave'm stuck.
Ones that come out are lubbed with anti-seize, put back in and pretty much just left in there.
 
Not all that bad, really. I just used Hoppes 9, then Rem Oil. Let it sit. Then Dry. I used Militec lube and anti-sieze afterwards.
 
I don't really care why they cut that hole in there. I'm using mine as a clean-out, and a place to drop in a little primer, when needed. Thank you for the information though. I also intend to keep my plug clean. I don't want it to be stuck like that. I'm just that way, I guess.
 
The allen head screw is the only one to use as a clean out screw on a TC rifle. The screw slotted ones will just cause you trouble. I remove them on all of my rifles that have them every time I clean them. Lube them with some breech plug grease and put them back in. Do not tighten them too much either.
 
They are not meant to be removed for cleaning. This is a very common misunderstanding.
Agree. But there seems to be some kind of fixation with many TC owners that they must use that screw.
At our club shoot this past Saturday, one fellow dry balled. He showed me his rifle. The little screw had been replaced with a wrong size, big headed, different screw by the guns previous owner. We struggled mightly to remove it to prime. He wanted that screw used despite being told by six people to jus remove the nipple. Then he did it a second time. I think that screw has the wrong threads and doesn't fit properly.
I don't stand next to him when he is shooting. There is just no convincing some people.
 
"By God, I paid for that screw to work, and by God I'm gonna use it!" :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: Bill
 
Well it's just plain easier to put powder down a 16/64 hole than it is a 5/64 hole.
Oh well, you can lead'm to the trough,,,
 
TC must have gotten sick of replacing these screws because I have a couple of barrels where they plugged on the left side with a stud and ground them flush to the flat with no access.
 
When I was looking at mine I figured it shouldn't be messed with and I left it in place.
Seems I made the right choice for once.

You did the right thing.

When I was trained by a factory certified instructor, I was told that this not a clean out screw, but a factory installed plug of a hole drilled in finishing the inside of the breech. The screw is locked with a strong thread sealer to discourage removal.

Here is a link to their manual. At the end, you will see their contact information. Write to them if clarification is needed. They are very pleasant to deal with.

T/C Hawken Manual

CS
 
You're 100% correct. That was some REAL thread sealer. I had a tough time breaking it loose :redface: .

I have an old T/C manual, and I got a new one too -- free for the asking. I called their contact number, and they were happy to look up my serial number so I would know the approximate year of manufacture of my gun. I was surprised to hear that Smith and Wesson had acquired them, but -- then again -- I don't keep up with stuff like that.

Thanks again for the tech. info.
 
Back
Top