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Cherry Stocks: Traditional Long Rifle Finishes

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Trapper Scott

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Cherry stock finish experiments.
Diluted Lye mix had the most dramatic effect (one teaspoon to 15 ounces of tap water). Tru-oil darkened the wood, but it lack the red tint I was hoping for. Ammonia vapors after about 24 hours darkened the wood slightly when compared to the untreated raw wood example. Note; the lye mixture was only after one treatment and was quickly neutralized with vinegar.
Thoughts or advice?
 

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I'm not sure what it is you're going for. A much darker color, perhaps? Keep experimenting. I'll be interested in what you finally come up with
 
I'm not sure what it is you're going for. A much darker color, perhaps? Keep experimenting. I'll be interested in what you finally come up with
I'm thinking about a shade or two darker than what the lye pictures show. It brings out the red tint much better than the others and I wanted to use something that the original gun makers may have used. I know there isn't much documented for finishes for the 17th and 18th centuries except leaving them in the white. I'll keep experimenting and posting my progress.
 
Prepare to get excited!
I increased the lye concentration a bit, then did as you suggested with the heat gun and I can't believe the difference. Much darker and richer in color. The picture in the center is untreated cherry from the same piece and the one on the right was treated with beeswax. Thanks again
 

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More testing on cherry wood today. I tried Permalyn, a lighter application of lye wash, and beeswax on the lye wash from yesterday. I did blush the lye wash with a heat gun. I also used a mixture of shellac and alcohol on another piece per some random YT video I ran across in a feeble attempt to mask blotchy spots for staining, but couldn't seem to get it to work out. The shellac prevented lye and an oil-based stain from penetrating the wood. So far, it appears the lye wash provides the best color change with red tint.
 

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Thanks! What is the lye-to-water ratio that you use?
The first test piece I used was one teaspoon of lye to 15 ounces of water which did color but not as much as I had hoped. I upped the ante by an extra teaspoon to the previous mixture and started getting darker results. The key to getting a deeper red color is to blush the wood with a heat gun like Rich Pierce suggested.
 
The first test piece I used was one teaspoon of lye to 15 ounces of water which did color but not as much as I had hoped. I upped the ante by an extra teaspoon to the previous mixture and started getting darker results. The key to getting a deeper red color is to blush the wood with a heat gun like Rich Pierce suggested.
Thanks again. Definetly something to try. I appreciate this a lot :thumb:
 
Thanks again. Definetly something to try. I appreciate this a lot :thumb:
You are welcome. There is a lot of information on the subject with most having their own special twist to what works for them. I'm just playing around with it to hopefully find a shade I like good enough for my Kibler SMR build. Good luck.
 
You are welcome. There is a lot of information on the subject with most having their own special twist to what works for them. I'm just playing around with it to hopefully find a shade I like good enough for my Kibler SMR build. Good luck.
I’ve been getting nice results with dyes but always looking to learn new things. Thanks
 
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