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Cherokee or Senena

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I also have a 45 Barrel for my Seneca, I believe people crack these stocks by using heavy loads. Although I've never Hunter deer with this rifle ,I learned a long time ago that "Magnum" loads aren't necessary to kill a deer.
 
Fyi: they (Cherokee & Senena) take a different nipple size than anything else from T/C.
 

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Yes as shown in your picture they take a 12-28 thread.

Best to my knowledge all other TC sidelocks take 1/4-28.
 
With the faster 1-30" twist of the 32 caliber I have shot both rabbits and squirrels with 10 grains of 3F Goex.
 
With the faster 1-30" twist of the 32 caliber I have shot both rabbits and squirrels with 10 grains of 3F Goex.
10 gr, that's a light load, very frugal on powder.
I was using 20 gr last time I had her out.

Since I have to order a nipple maybe i will order some conicals for it too.
 
10 gr, that's a light load, very frugal on powder.
I was using 20 gr last time I had her out.

Since I have to order a nipple maybe i will order some conicals for it too.
My ‘standard’ load in 32 caliber is 12 grains of fff Swiss. Some may call it frugal, but I call it accurate and easy to shoot.
 
So I have the nipples ordered (ordered a spare too) but the wrench they recommend is not in stock. Will another wrench for a #11 nipple work?
 
So I have the nipples ordered (ordered a spare too) but the wrench they recommend is not in stock. Will another wrench for a #11 nipple work?
Yes, another #11 nipple wrench for a rifle will work. One thing to also consider is that you need to use grease on the threads of the nipple. Heat, impact and fouling can really tighten them up on the nipple seat. Best choice is a high temperature never seize lubricant available in auto stores. I use RIG which is not a never seizing lubricant, but it works for me. The nipple needs to be snug, not tight. You've got a hole in it so sealing at the threads isn't all that important. If the nipple is snug, it won't back out. You want to be able to remove the nipple for cleaning.
 
Yes, another #11 nipple wrench for a rifle will work. One thing to also consider is that you need to use grease on the threads of the nipple. Heat, impact and fouling can really tighten them up on the nipple seat. Best choice is a high temperature never seize lubricant available in auto stores. I use RIG which is not a never seizing lubricant, but it works for me. The nipple needs to be snug, not tight. You've got a hole in it so sealing at the threads isn't all that important. If the nipple is snug, it won't back out. You want to be able to remove the nipple for cleaning.

Thank you! I have never done this before so any tips are appreciated. I do have anti -sieze in my garage from when I was working on vintage motor bikes.
 
My Cherokee has a little brass bushing/washer under the lock screw head shaped like a little teardrop. It has a little nub on the backside that fits into a tiny hole in the stock and indexes it in this position. Decorative? I've never seen one before
20200517_085601.jpg
 
My Cherokee has a little brass bushing/washer under the lock screw head shaped like a little teardrop. It has a little nub on the backside that fits into a tiny hole in the stock and indexes it in this position. Decorative? I've never seen one before View attachment 31576
I noticed that on yours, it does add to the overall good looks.

I don't think I have ever had the lock off of ours, so I don't know if there is a mechanical reason to index the bushing.
 
Flattened nipples can be "sharpened " easily, just chuck the nipple in a drill and hold it against a tool stone as the chuck turns. Nipples should have a sharp edge, flatened nipples often need two hits, one to seat the cap, one to detonate the cap.Over the years I have salvaged dozen of nipples. Once at a rendezvous I "fixed" a competator's rifle by taking the nipple out,"sticknig" it into a small straight branch and sharpening it on a piece of sand stone, turning the branch as you would fire starting bow.
 
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