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Chamber's York build

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LawrenceA

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Hi,
Every kit gun I've worked with over the last 5 years required the barrel to be moved back. Lawrence, you are using too much inletting black. Dip a tooth brush in the stuff to get a little bit on it then use that brush without recharging the blacking for a long time. Your thick blacking along the edges of mortices makes it very difficult to see gaps forming. About gaps, don't fuss with them right away. First, finish the inletting task and then clean up the wood so you can see the edges of the mortices. Then wet it with water with the inlay in place and see if the gaps close up. If they do, you can expect them to disappear when you stain and finish the gun. If the gaps remain, then consider gluing in a sliver of wood but don't rush into doing that. Be patient and stop using so much black.

dave
I had moved the barrel back already but did not have the lock to see how they lined up so only took it back far enough to fit it to the stock.
Yes I have realised the overuse of the black and amended my ways. Was using an earbud on the lid. Will reduce further.
Thank you greatly for the pointers.

For what it is worth I greatly admire your work. It is inspirational. Shame I am so far away.
Have you ever sent one of your fowlers over seas? I would dearly love one but not sure how to progress.
 
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LawrenceA

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Regarding the 'armory bright' on your barrel: consider knocking off the sharp edges on the flats and softening the edges. Then cold-brown the barrel (or however you prefer to brown it). When you have a nice brown surface and the 'rust' comes off onto your fingers, rub it off with a grey Scotch Bright scrubber (not the green one, it's too course). It will give the metal an aged look and also will help control rust.
Yeah done a bit of browning but I was under the impression it was not right for these early guns. I like a new gun to look new.
 

Buckskinn

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I wouldn't worry about the surface rust until you are done with the gun and ready for finishing. Cold blue the barrel instead of browning, imo.
 

LawrenceA

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I wouldn't worry about the surface rust until you are done with the gun and ready for finishing. Cold blue the barrel instead of browning, imo.
If by Cold blue you mean rust blue then again I don't think it fits the period. If you mean like Oxpho blue then not me sorry.
Yes I will have to finish the draw filing which will clean it all up and I guess I wont be sweating on it as much when it is in final assembly.
Just a nuisance I have not had on other guns. I recently finished a Matchlock and no dramas with surface rust with that one. Also refinished the barrels on 2 last year with no issues but I did brown them soo who knows what went unseen.
 

smoothshooter

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I have never seen a pre-carved stock that did not require moving the barrel back. Get the lock positioned first then adjust the barrel accordingly. Groove the plug if you have to; there are thousands of guns with plugs that are cut for the vent and/or the liner.
Why don’t the people running the stock duplicators change the masters slightly and eliminate the barrel set-back problem? Should be easy enough to do.
 

LawrenceA

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Well been doing a fair bit.
Pretty much in the white now as I have shaped the forend.
I have been practising my carving and just do not feel comfortable to give it a go yet.
I spent the last hour trying to draw in the line above the ramrod groove but cannot get it straight so gave up for now.
It sure is purtty!
20210228_114545 (2).jpg20210302_174956.jpg
 
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