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Cast pewter nose cap

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Does anyone have a link to a video showing how to cast a nose cap? I would like to try one, but am not sure how to do it without destroying the stock.
 
I dont know of a video, however I dont think you have to worry about ruining the stock.

I had one rife that I was trying to get the pewter as thin as I could and had to recast it several times. It was a good learning experience.

Even though I cast that nose piece several times, there was no harm to the stock or rifle.

Fleener
 
I had to recast mine once, and the only thing I did was scorch the stock a little melting the pewter off, but it is a walnut stock so no worrries there
 
I've never harmed the wood with the pewter (but I keep the temps down), but I could see where removing it might cause problems. Don't recall where I heard about this (probably here), but old file folder is terrific for forming your mold. Held with blue masking tape. I've never scorched the paper when casting, so no threat to the wood.
 
To avoid scorching the stock, test the pewter with a toothpick before you pour it.
If you can hold a toothpick in the melted pewter for a couple seconds without burning it, you are good to go. The toothpick will turn a little bit brown, that's okay. Dark, scorched/burned toothpick is not good.

Also, plug your ramrod entry hole with a dowel wrapped in tin foil. You do not want any spillage to go down the ramrod channel.

You need to make a dam around the area to be poured. Like mentioned before, use Manila folder cardstock wrapped around about twice. Blue painter's tape works well. Make sure you don't have any gaps for the pewter to run out.
Some guys heat the barrel to help keep the pewter from solidifying too fast, which causes voids or missed spots.
Pour it with the barrel in. If it is a full stock, be sure to plug the barrel!!!!

the pewter cap doesn't need to be super thick. Thinner is easier, but too thin and the pewter won't run all the way down because it will cool too quickly.
Probably about as thick as a brass nose cap is good. Maybe .050 or so.

Also, drill two holes through the wood into the barrel channel, maybe 1/4 inch holes or so, and then countersink the hole inside the barrel channel. This will fill with pewter and act as a rivet to hold the nosecap on.

Here is a link to a post I did showing my first pewter nose cap, mistakes and all:
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297544/post/1526149/hl//fromsearch/1/



Cheers,
Chowmi.
 
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Another good tip.

With a half stock, be absolutely certain the RR hole is really really plugged. If the pewter runs in there and solidifies, you'll have a devil of a time getting it out of there.

If you wind up with a small void or two you can plug it up with solder and a soldering iron or gun. Just make sure you make your pour bigger than you want. You can always file it all away. If you spread out a big piece of paper underneath, you can recover the filings and re-cast them in to your ingot.

Pewter nose caps are actually quite a bit easier to do than fitting a custom shaped brass nose cap.
 
Chowmif16 said:
To avoid scorching the stock, test the pewter with a toothpick before you pour it.
If you can hold a toothpick in the melted pewter for a couple seconds without burning it, you are good to go. The toothpick will turn a little bit brown, that's okay. Dark, scorched/burned toothpick is not good.

Great tip!
 

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