-
This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.
Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades -
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
Cap & Ball Tracks -What causes them and why?
- Thread starter Aldarith
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
The bolt (part that pops up through the frame to lock the cylinder in place) is dragging on the cylinder. Timing or maintenance issue.
The function is much the same as the later Colt Single Action Army so any book on that revolver will work well for the percussion guns. I got my Navy so the bolt pops up in the leade (the scalloped area before the notch) but it was a lot of work and all the parts are inter-related. Work on one and that might impact another. The scoring really doesn't hurt anything if the bolt pops up too early.
On a lot of percussions the gun can go into full cock BEFORE the cylinder locks up. This is usually never noticed because the shooter draws the hammer as far back as possible, beyond what is necessary for reaching full cock and that rotates the cylinder enough to lock the bolt into the notch.
You cannot see where the bolt pops up on the percussion because the frame is cupped but you can slide a sheet of paper into the area, etc.-or listen carefully.
On a lot of percussions the gun can go into full cock BEFORE the cylinder locks up. This is usually never noticed because the shooter draws the hammer as far back as possible, beyond what is necessary for reaching full cock and that rotates the cylinder enough to lock the bolt into the notch.
You cannot see where the bolt pops up on the percussion because the frame is cupped but you can slide a sheet of paper into the area, etc.-or listen carefully.
Phil Coffins
69 Cal.
Also operator error. Lowering the hammer from half cock then turning the cylinder by hand.
The fix, after you figure out how it happened, polish and reblue.
The fix, after you figure out how it happened, polish and reblue.
jdesro
40 Cal
- Joined
- Nov 8, 2020
- Messages
- 179
- Reaction score
- 263
This is the cause on probably 98.7% of the revolvers you see like this - operator error. The first photo especially has the hallmark of someone who didn't know what they were dong, and repeatedly rotated the cylinder when the pistol was not at half-cock.
Playing "cowboy " (fanning, slip thumbing), late timing. All the mentioned things and these combined with a much over sprung bolt will dig a trench around you cyl.
As far as knowing where the bolt is dropping when you're adjusting/ correcting timing, you have a timing mark! (6 shot open tops)
The left side of the hammer slot on the recoil shield. Using that corner as a sight, you should hear the bolt drop as a locking notch (on the cyl) reaches that mark ( go slow and drag a finger on the cyl). At full cock the notch will be just on the other side of the mark.
Mike
As far as knowing where the bolt is dropping when you're adjusting/ correcting timing, you have a timing mark! (6 shot open tops)
The left side of the hammer slot on the recoil shield. Using that corner as a sight, you should hear the bolt drop as a locking notch (on the cyl) reaches that mark ( go slow and drag a finger on the cyl). At full cock the notch will be just on the other side of the mark.
Mike
If the bolt/trigger spring is over tightened it will peen the cylinder lead or bolt recess. Also, many ( many) have bolts that are wider than the recess. A drag line on the cylinder doesn't always mean a problem exists. I time mine to drop the bolt a bit early so when they are cocked with vigor, they still lock up and don’t over rotate. Polishing the bolt head can also help. Fixing what you have; polish and reblue the cylinder - after any bolt or bolt spring issues are solved. Also, I’m ugly and scared up but I still shoot fine.Every once in a while I see one of these used revolvers with an egregious track.
What causes this? Poor timing?
Is it a symptom of worse underlying issues?
What can be done to fix it?
View attachment 142843
I'll just say with a Colt type action,, there should be no drag lines on the cylinder. It does in fact denote a problem or mishandling. Either you have weak or broken springs, worn parts or turning the cylinder with the bolt on the cyl. Piettas are notorious for bolts that don't fit.
Rugers are famous for their "beauty rings" but it's not by design, it's because of design. The weak hand (pawl) spring and plunger allow one to illustrate throw-by "at will". As discussed in another thread, the hand (pawl) has not only the job of carry-up but also of braking the cyl for lockup. The loading gate feature that lowers the bolt (cyl latch) to unlock the cyl for loading/unloading allows the bolt to contact the cyl wherever the gate is closed. The user usually turns the cyl by hand to lock the cyl. This (beauty rings) has been accepted as "expected " on New Model Rugers. The older 3 screw Rugers (which the ROA was a continuation of) should have clean cylinders just like Colts.
Mike
Rugers are famous for their "beauty rings" but it's not by design, it's because of design. The weak hand (pawl) spring and plunger allow one to illustrate throw-by "at will". As discussed in another thread, the hand (pawl) has not only the job of carry-up but also of braking the cyl for lockup. The loading gate feature that lowers the bolt (cyl latch) to unlock the cyl for loading/unloading allows the bolt to contact the cyl wherever the gate is closed. The user usually turns the cyl by hand to lock the cyl. This (beauty rings) has been accepted as "expected " on New Model Rugers. The older 3 screw Rugers (which the ROA was a continuation of) should have clean cylinders just like Colts.
Mike
On the Colt style there is a slanted button or cam near the hammer's pin. As the hammer is pulled back this cam bears against the tail of the bolt which lowers the bolt out of the cylinder nock and allows the cylinder to rotate. The cylinder will actually move a little before the bolt clears the notch but if the tail of the bolt is wrong and the cylinder moves excessively before the bolt clears- that can build up a burr between the notch and leade area- as others have stated. Now as the hammer continues being pulled back the tail of the bolt eventually slides off this cam and the bolt spring causes it to pop up. Again, if the tail on the bolt is wrong it will slide off too early and then you get the worn line around the cylinder. The gouge in a worn line is often just a rough top to the bolt- it ought to be polished smooth and the edge smoothed NOT ROUNDED just smoothed.
Cocking the gun causes it. On later models 1-2 times cocking will reduce value by 50% or more. Collectors revere un-cocked at the prime.
Why shows have zip ties on them.
Why shows have zip ties on them.
