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Caliber Opinions. First Build

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Caliber for Swamped Barrel Kit

  • .54

    Votes: 16 53.3%
  • .50

    Votes: 7 23.3%
  • Other

    Votes: 7 23.3%

  • Total voters
    30
  • Poll closed .
Big fan of .50 as all-around calibre here....uses less powder than .54, .50 has flatter trajectory due to bullet weight (which can you throw further, a baseball or hardball?)....and .50 is just a deadly....on targets or deer size game...and as mentioned above..rifle weight is wholly dependent upon wood architecture and choice of B or C barrel weight...period. You can own a .40 that weighs more than a .60 or visa versa. Folks that say one weights more than another are missing all the variables. Good luck and good hunting !
 
I'm getting close to ordering a kit. Flintlock for sure. Lancaster or Colonial style. I haven't decided which kit or from whom, but that's not the point of this thread.

My question is, .50 or .54.

I'm not too concerned with historically correct calibers, but if I can get close, which one would it be? I'm leaning more toward the .54 because balls/patches are pretty easy to find, and I've never owned a .54, I read that the swamped .54's are lighter and are balanced better than the .50's.

Hit me with the facts.

-RM
.58 would be my choice, but not really the best if most of your shooting is paper
 
I'll be punching way more paper than hunting. If I do take any game it'll be whitetail or hog. I like having options, you see.
If paper punching is the main interest, I would go with a .50 caliber.
I'm a bit of a tight wad when it comes to spending money and I notice you can buy .490 or .495 diameter roundballs for about $14 per hundred at Track of the Wolf.
If you go with the .54, the cost of roundballs rises to about $18 per hundred.
Maybe if price is no object either caliber will do but $4 per hundred difference might be something to think about.

Now that I've said that I must add, my .54's seem to be more accurate than my .50's. Maybe it is just the guns but there is no denying the .54 is less wind sensitive.
 
Where I live anything larger than deer is a major investment in time and money. So, a 45 or 50 should do it for an all around rifle.

Back when I first started shooting muzzleloaders in the 1970s it was either 45 or 50 for most guns. That was probably because off the shelf were available in those two calibers unless you went to military calibers which were mostly 58. I still remember getting my TC Hawken in 50 because I might just get the chance to hunt elk in Colorado some day. Now 50 is almost viewed as a small game caliber.
 
If you look at all the good info in this thread, the common denominator seems to be .54. If you are standing on the offhand line blazing away at the 10 ring with thoughts of glory, watch out for a girl with a .40.
 
If paper punching is the main interest, I would go with a .50 caliber.
I'm a bit of a tight wad when it comes to spending money and I notice you can buy .490 or .495 diameter roundballs for about $14 per hundred at Track of the Wolf.
If you go with the .54, the cost of roundballs rises to about $18 per hundred.
Maybe if price is no object either caliber will do but $4 per hundred difference might be something to think about.

Now that I've said that I must add, my .54's seem to be more accurate than my .50's. Maybe it is just the guns but there is no denying the .54 is less wind sensitive.
This has been my experience as well; my .54's just seem a bit more accurate than my .50's. Also, my 1:48 .54 is much more forgiving than my other one which has a slower 1:60 twist. I've owned several Lyman trade rifles and GPR's in both 50 and 54 calibers and the .54's were much less nose heavy then the .50's. However, they were not swamped barrels. Food for thought.
 
I have a 62 flintlock and I will tell you, any deer I have hit Has gone no where. It’s an awesome sight, the ball hits and you see a shutter fly through the animal and they know it’s all over!
 
Flintlock62, does that ball shoot all the way through? Or, do you find it under the skin on the other side?
 
All the way through except once, and that was because I hit the deer straight on and found the ball in the rear ham. It was quartering to me when I Squeezed the trigger, I And I was aiming at the shoulder/neck area, and when the smoke cleared he moved about 6 inches or maybe a little more.
 
Well that depends, for deer it’s 110 grains and for Elk and larger I can go all the way up to 180 grains, I had it built to be able to put the hurtin on both ends.
 
Here’s a picture of my beautiful girl!
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My .62 Rifle (TVM Rifled Fowler) with a 38" barrel; 70 grains 3F and patched round ball has shot through all but one deer. She was running by me at 35 yards and I broke both of her front shoulders with the shot. We found no exit wound nor did we find the ball in her. I assume it was in the far shoulder joint (I did not butcher the deer). She dropped like all the rest, like her feet had somehow lost contact with terrafirma.

ADK Bigfoot
 
I am a big bore type of guy, guess it is a male chauvinist thing, even most of the unmentionables run on the larger size, big holes, massive blood loss, broken bones equals short drags. 62 cal. for me. Getting to old and fat to be dragging deer long ways usually up hill both ways.
 
There are several characteristics beyond beyond caliber that determine balance in a rifle, including the physical make-up of the shooter. I have a 7 pond 50cal that balances as well as my 9 pound 58 cal, but the added weight of the 58cal brings them closer in terms of felt recoil....for me. I think either 50 or 54 caliber could suit your purposes, and will really come down to personal preference.
 
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