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Butt plates are tough for me!

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This one took me so long if I stated the time it would sound like a lie. Being my second build had something to do with it.

buttplate inlet complete.jpg
 
On the last rifle I built I used a candle and a half round Iwasaki file. It came out as good as if I scraped it. Airtight. No fillers needed. Sometimes it is better to be lucky than good. ;)
Lucky is always good!
Those Iwasaki's look like refined Ferriers Rasp!

This was a tough one. It has a toe and it is tapered, ARGH! I think I got it pretty good though. The ram rod entry pipe always gives me trouble, no matter how plain or complex the profile, it is a vexing little devil!
View attachment 113923
Robby
That'd probably be a lifetime project. I'd need to have to start with a 17" trigger pull.

This one took me so long if I stated the time it would sound like a lie. Being my second build had something to do with it.

View attachment 113945
Not much room for error there, I can understand the time thing.
 
This was a tough one. It has a toe and it is tapered, ARGH! I think I got it pretty good though. The ram rod entry pipe always gives me trouble, no matter how plain or complex the profile, it is a vexing little devil!
Robby
Nice job, that was a nasty task to install that BP! I vote #2 on the RR entry.:mad: My method/approach must be wrong, as they are always seem to be a struggle.
Larry
 
I have never been able to understand why so many people have so much trouble with butt plates and entry pipes. I have never had any trouble with them. Sure, it can take a long time, but there is nothing difficult about it.
 
I watched your videos and until I saw you inlet an entry thimble I always had a killer time with it. Then your way was easy peasy.
BP still a pia😊
 
They are a pita, and time consuming, had to stop one build I am in the middle of. This thread has inspired me to take another stab at it, since I am so close.
You can work the brass ones some, but these steel one's are a bugger
 
Give up Candles.. Find a small glass jar with a metal lid. Punch a small hold in the centre of lid with a hard nail or something. Find a length of small dia. Lamp Wick.Thread it thru' the hole long enough to coil up on the jar bottom.1/2 fill the jar with a smoky type Oil (paraffin) and cut the wick about 1/8" above the jar top.. Light your nice little lamp and Bingo!! lots of smoke. Trick learned long ago from an Old Birmigham stocker. Easier to get rid of soot than Blue. Useful on metal parts as well..Checkering the steel ones is a bit of a bugger too OLD DOG..
 

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Not only the screw slot but each of the screw holes have been plugged and re-drilled a bunch of times as the buttplate settled in and changed the screw location. The screw hole plug is a hickory ramrod cut off.

My big mistake was thinking I had to inlet the entire under side of the plate perfectly, curvature and all as you can see in this picture. Live and learn....

Buttplate almost two months.jpg
 
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I have never been able to understand why so many people have so much trouble with butt plates and entry pipes. I have never had any trouble with them. Sure, it can take a long time, but there is nothing difficult about it.
Ever try brain surgery? Bet you couldn't do that! Why, cuz you don't know how. That is where some of us struggle. We are using the wrong approach. This is just my opinion.
I can do many tasks in a build as some of my methods work and I am careful.
Happy to hear you have accomplished BP and entry pipe installation satisfaction.
Larry
 
Not only the screw slot but each of the screw holes have been plugged and re-drilled a bunch of times as the buttplate settled in and changed the screw location. The screw hole plug is a hickory ramrod cut off.

My big mistake was thinking I had to inlet the entire under side of the plate perfectly, curvature and all as you can see in this picture. Live and learn....

View attachment 114031
Eric, that concavity on the BP is there to hide money in! 🤣
i hog out relief inside 1/4 inch bearing shelf. still BP's are buggers.
did the layout on the plank i am working on this morning.
find myself working every place else on the stock but the BP. :rolleyes:
 
Not only the screw slot but each of the screw holes have been plugged and re-drilled a bunch of times as the buttplate settled in and changed the screw location. The screw hole plug is a hickory ramrod cut off.

My big mistake was thinking I had to inlet the entire under side of the plate perfectly, curvature and all as you can see in this picture. Live and learn....

View attachment 114031
I been there done that
 
I just resumed building my "squirrel rifle" A 36 Douglas barrel, siler flint kit, davis set trigger kit and a squared off chunk of wood from Pecatonica, I think.
It's been a while as I lost my "hobby" shop usage so it has layed unmolested for a couple of years.

Any how, I had barrel inlayed from original start, ramrod hole routed and drilled and lock inlet.
Got the triggers inlayed Wednesday night after pinning barrel and two forward thimbles.

Yesterday I tackled the butt plate. Them thangs is tough on me. Finally finished fitting it tonight....I think. Gonna go back and look at it tomorrow with fresh eyes.
Burned thru almost a whole candle on it. It's about a 1/16" lower than I planned but it fits me fine.

I've got to see if I can find my butt plate screws, can't seem to lay my hands on them.
Sure hope I don't have to order any.

I think the butt plate is the hardest part to get fit right.
Any pointers, now that I'm pret near satisfied with mine.:doh:

Happy shooting all!
This one took me so long if I stated the time it would sound like a lie. Being my second build had something to do with it.

View attachment 113945

Well sir allow me to express my deep respect for your courage in adopting the early "Newphie" (Newfoundland) School of ML Rifle making. LOL
 
Give up Candles.. Find a small glass jar with a metal lid. Punch a small hold in the centre of lid with a hard nail or something. Find a length of small dia. Lamp Wick.Thread it thru' the hole long enough to coil up on the jar bottom.1/2 fill the jar with a smoky type Oil (paraffin) and cut the wick about 1/8" above the jar top.. Light your nice little lamp and Bingo!! lots of smoke. Trick learned long ago from an Old Birmigham stocker. Easier to get rid of soot than Blue. Useful on metal parts as well..Checkering the steel ones is a bit of a bugger too OLD DOG..
That is a beautiful Rifle.
 
I find an oil lamp is the way to go, they are readily available, mine is an old original but cheap modern made ones are available at Walmart along with the lamp oil.

I keep a butane BBQ lighter next to mine and blow it out after every blackening and relight it for the next go round.
lamp.JPG
 
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