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Butcher Knife

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lonehunter

58 Cal.
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This one has been waiting on grips for quite a while, Got off my lazy butt and did something about it. :haha:
6 1/2" Blade of 0-1 Steel
4 1/4" Full tang handle with Walnut slabs and iron pins. Hope you enjoy a look.
All comments welcome
James
 
Great job on the grips! Who made your blade? 6 1/2" is about perfect for a working knife. We who shoot artillery in reenactment needed a good fixed blade knife for various chores, and quickly realized that a knuckle bow Bowie, etc., while good for chopping brush and impressing the public, didn't get a lot of the small jobs done well, and was heavy and in the way more often than not. The gun commander could carry a sword or large knife OK, because his work was mostly mental. The crew would fall in love with your blade. :thumbsup: Tree.
 
MSW said:
lovely scales... what's the finish?
Minwax antique oil finish is all I put on them.
That was the scrap from a piece that LRB gave me for another project a few weeks ago. Gonna have to start being nice to him, He may have more of it. :haha:
 
lonehunter said:
MSW said:
lovely scales... what's the finish?
Minwax antique oil finish is all I put on them.
That was the scrap from a piece that LRB gave me for another project a few weeks ago. Gonna have to start being nice to him, He may have more of it. :haha:

thanks!
 
If you go center seam is there any chance you could post a tutorial or at least pics at different points in the process? I can understand how to make it work on knives that have a glad the same depth spine to belly at the base as the handle is thick, such as some fillet knives and Mora knives. By I can't wrap my head around making it fit up the handle well enough to retain the knife if he blade is deeper than the handle. Not sure I explained that well.
 
The sheath has to widened a little as it approaches the grip area. When it gets wet formed, a wide enough slim wedge is forced into the grip area on the under side of the grip until the blade heel stops it, or it is the to the grip depth. When dried this leaves space for the blade to slip in without contacting the leather. If that is your question. http://paleoplanet69529.yuku.com/topic/24616/MAKING-A-CENTER-SEAM-SHEATH#.U5wpZmcU-Lg
The seam can be on the front or back. If on the back you of course want a squared off top. Back seam is more correct. Front seam is more "frontiersy/primitive" looking.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Wick covered it pretty well, I would add to take into consideration the thickness of leather when you make your template. I always seem to err on the small side when I make my first centerseam for any givin blade. A small adjustment in size with your template goes a long way when fitting a blade to it!
I just finished one for a fillet knife yesterday, I will try to remember to take pics on the next one.
 
Lonehunter, can you explain the pinning process. Is it a straight pin thru strait drilled holes? Df
 
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