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bullet casting question

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Use ONLY PURE LEAD it is not worth the trouble to screw up any weapon' :doh:

Please tell us how a lead alloy bullet will "screw up" a steel barrel?
I know many people use straight WW for prb. I use a 50/50 mix of soft lead (a very generic term), and wheel weights.

As a kid I cast what I could scrounge. I scrapped car batteries ( I wouldn't do that being older and wiser). I was given 50lbs of Babbitt from an auto shop, shot all of it thru my CVA 45.
 
I imagine hardness doesn't really matter to a properly-sized patched smoothy?
Lots of talk about bismuth projectiles. It casts easily.
Stainless pots also work well for melting alloys. Cheap at thrift stores too.

wm
 
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Thank you, i bought another pot to throw all those other bullets and such of unknown hardness in to make fishing weights most of the conicals and roundballs i have are from commercial companies like maxiballs and great plains bullets i have enough of them to last a long time but bought REAL molds in 50 54 and 58 ill cast some of the .58 440 grain up to see how they shoot right now a .570 roundball takes care of most of the work
 
Couple years ago I bought a Lyman digital pot… Love it so much I gave away 2 old Lyman pots, an even older phone company propane burner that sounded like an F16 and relegated the newish Turkey fryer to smelting.
 
No.

Best source I've found for "pure" lead aside from Roto is x ray room lead used to shield x ray rooms in medical facilities. It tests right in there with the pure stuff and I get it at spot. Next up is old school shower pans in residential baths. My local scrap yard has both in stock most of the time and I make sure my fellow contractors know I'm always ready to take lead off their hands so they don't have to haul it to the scrap yard.
Got some x-ray room leftover material. Have not used any yet. A strip 8x20 inches
 
Having multiple pots for different alloys must be nice :)

For those of us that experiment with various alloys with one large pot it is perfectly fine to use the same one.

I found that the metal the pot as well as ladles are made of can be cleaned easily by few gentle impacts with a soft mallet while hot.

After I've cast lyman no 2 for example and I want to switch to pure lead I dump all the pot's contents into a muffin tray (The last bit by overturning the pot). Then I take the pot outside while it's hot and I give it few delicate whacks with a wooden handle I use to clean ladles in the same way. Then I melt all my pure lead and without fluxing I skim any dross off the surface. This way I maintain my pure lead as "pure enough". I don't flux pure lead anyway BTW.

With pure lead I always cast at 450c(840f). I use Lyman's ladle and I hold it for few seconds on the sprue hole "pressurising" the mold. I found I'm getting the best fill quality and consistency with this technique. I tried casting "as hot as the pot goes ", but all I achieved trying that was thin wires on my bullet sides where the mold is vented. I never successfully managed to bottom pour bullets(or balls) larger than 350 grains.

I also never whack the sprue cutter with anything. Opening it by hand in a welding glove is much better. Another thing important for mold longevity is to not slam it closed after bullets drop. I managed to mess one of my lyman iron molds by doing that. Since then I always close the mold gently. It is also a good idea to, every few minutes, raise the mold after closing to light and see if there is no light showing between halves. Proper mold will shut with a really nice fit. Even a tiny bit of light suggests there is something wrong. A small burr next to locator pin, a spec of lead in an air vent passage etc. I keep a soft brass wire brush to clean any specks of lead that stick to the (iron) mold. I wouldn't use a brass brush on aluminium. If I have to wipe a hot aluminium mold I use a piece of dry cotton fabric.

I have aluminium, iron and brass molds. Out of all of them I'm getting high quality bullets, but aluminium is the easiest and the fastest for me.

Here are some pictures of bullets I cast a while ago. These are all pure lead(perhaps a tiny amount of tin contamination under 0.1%) and they measure around 6bhn with my Lee hardness tester. They loose this mirror shine in storage and they look like typical pure lead bullet after few weeks.
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Oh. Solder. Got it.

Can ya scratch it with a thumbnail? Doubt it. Too hard.

wm
The thumbnail test is totally moot. Decent lead testers are not all that expensive. (A lot less expensive than any firearm you own)
Who's thumbnail? Mine are like bear claws, I can leave scratches in hardwood.
My wife's thumbnails have a hard time scratching cake icing.....
How hard is your thumbnail? That like asking how long is rope for a well? ----> (Yea, it all depends on the well -)
 
No.

Best source I've found for "pure" lead aside from Roto is x ray room lead used to shield x ray rooms in medical facilities. It tests right in there with the pure stuff and I get it at spot. Next up is old school shower pans in residential baths. My local scrap yard has both in stock most of the time and I make sure my fellow contractors know I'm always ready to take lead off their hands so they don't have to haul it to the scrap yard.
Ace hardware stores carry 99.9 lead if you are in a pinch and need lead ASAP. About 3.00 a pound last time I checked.
 
I imagine hardness doesn't really matter to a properly-sized patched smoothy?
Lots of talk about bismuth projectiles. It casts easily.
Stainless pots also work well for melting alloys. Cheap at thrift stores too.

wm
For patched ammunition it won't matter. The weight is going to be a little lighter than pure lead.
If you use anything less than pure lead for paper patched hunting conical bullets - be aware that they will not expand like they are designed to do - thereby limiting the killing effectiveness of the round.
 
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