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Building a Pecatonica Tennessee Classic Longrifle

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thanks I just messaged him. I have a real vise coming this week and the addition of a drilling jig will make quick work of re-drilling the underlug holes. I got them into the lugs just fine but a couple ended up going off at strange angles on the other side of the stock. I love making mistakes. Teaches me so much
 
thanks I just messaged him. I have a real vise coming this week and the addition of a drilling jig will make quick work of re-drilling the underlug holes. I got them into the lugs just fine but a couple ended up going off at strange angles on the other side of the stock. I love making mistakes. Teaches me so much
I agree. And you will really like his jig. He's a great guy to work with, too.
 
Speaking of mistakes. My latest boner was to very very carefully lay out a tapped 8 x 32 hole. I measured and remeasured, drilled the tap hole perfectly on location Then, being a bit hurried and not using my reading glasses to check the tap, I tapped it in perfect position 8 x 36 NF. : ).
 
Today I got more time with the Tennessee Classic rifle. I contoured and fit the stock to fit the nose cap. Of course it didn't fit the octagon muzzle but with some filing it came out well.
I worked down the fore stock so the sides were only about half-way up the side flats, and then filed down the length of the barrel to thin the wood a lot. I then shaped around the forward lock panel. Then I taped the barrel into the channel and drilled the pins which was a breeze with the jig.
I am pretty much on hold now until the new trigger guard arrives soon. Hopefully I will have more success with the new design.
 

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So I have an awesome pinning jug that drills the pin holes (and bolt holes) in the exact place you want them to go. But I needed something to help me know where to put the barrel and Ramrod pipe pins before I can drill the holes. I came up with this simple thing that did the trick. It's a variation of something already out there but I didn't have one so it's now part of my stuff.
To work it, I simply laid the wooden block across the top of the barrel channel. I have a dowel that passes through in a hole, which I push down until it contacts with the bottom of the barrel channel. Then, because one end of the block is longer, I lay it across the stock with the dowel laying against the outside of the stock and locate where the bottom of the barrel is. I give an additional bit of space for the tang and mark the spot. Then I do the same on the other side of the stock. Next, I set-up then drill jig and get a nicely placed pin hole. I will do the same procedure for the barrel lugs.
It takes the guess-work out of drilling these scarry pin holes !
Brilliant! Such a simple tool, but a creative solution. Great idea!

Notchy Bob
 
You may want to take a little more wood off from the bottom along the ramrod channel, and taper the sides down to ramrod channel. So you can see over half of the ramrod from the side. Thinner makes a Tennessee rifle look long and sleek... I like a Tennessee a lot better than a Hawken's for this reason
 
Well, after a couple of frustrating attempts to fit a square peg in a round hole, I got a different designed trigger guard to try on the Tennessee Classic. It took a bit of very careful bending to get it into the shape I needed. But after a few hours, I got it. Next, the rear set trigger was a bit too long to clear the bow of the trigger guard so I ground back the tip of the trigger a little and it now functions perfectly.
I decided to pin the front of the trigger guard in and use a screw for the rear. There wasn't much play room to pin it at the front of the guard but with the Bogg pinning jig it came out great.
Now, with all the hardware on, I can begin doing some shaping and sanding.
*whew*
 

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Done for today: Now in the white, the Pecatonica Tennessee Classic rifle is ready for finishing. Have finished with detailing and sanding, then raised the grain twice and got her all smoothed down.
Next will come the coloring.
I was thinking a nice heavy coat of emerald green paint :oops:.
 

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You've done another beautiful job. I love that there are no inlays or embellishments to distract the beauty of the wood. Can't wait to see it fully finished. I have been cutting and gouging wood for about 4 days now and I don't know how you do it everyday. I guess my age is showing and I do have a new appreciation for you wood workers. Great job..................Labrat
 
You've done another beautiful job. I love that there are no inlays or embellishments to distract the beauty of the wood. ...I guess my age is showing and I do have a new appreciation for you wood workers. Great job..................Labrat

+1 I am coming to the conclusion less inlays is better on truly exceptional wood. Smaller amounts of carving appeal to me as well.
 
Well, after a couple of frustrating attempts to fit a square peg in a round hole, I got a different designed trigger guard to try on the Tennessee Classic. It took a bit of very careful bending to get it into the shape I needed. But after a few hours, I got it. Next, the rear set trigger was a bit too long to clear the bow of the trigger guard so I ground back the tip of the trigger a little and it now functions perfectly.
I decided to pin the front of the trigger guard in and use a screw for the rear. There wasn't much play room to pin it at the front of the guard but with the Bogg pinning jig it came out great.
Now, with all the hardware on, I can begin doing some shaping and sanding.
*whew*
What guard is that, Bob? It looks good.

The iron trigger guards on original Tennessee rifles were hand-forged, so no two of them were exactly alike. Most of the investment cast guards we see now are based on maybe three originals, and many of today's Tennessee rifles have a degree of "cookie cutter" uniformity that just wasn't seen in originals. The guard you ended up with not only looks really good on that rifle, but is just a little different from the Bean guards that broke. Maybe Divine intervention: "Ye shall make this rifle just a little different, Bob. The mundane Bean guard breaketh, and breaketh again, until the correct guard is chosen in its place."

Mr. Kibler selected a unique guard for his mountain rifle kit, which was great. He chose a very nice example for a prototype. The guard you ended up with is a little different still.

The rifle is shaping up very nicely, and I'm looking forward to seeing it with color and finish.

Best regards,

Notchy Bob
 
What guard is that, Bob? It looks good.

The iron trigger guards on original Tennessee rifles were hand-forged, so no two of them were exactly alike. Most of the investment cast guards we see now are based on maybe three originals, and many of today's Tennessee rifles have a degree of "cookie cutter" uniformity that just wasn't seen in originals. The guard you ended up with not only looks really good on that rifle, but is just a little different from the Bean guards that broke. Maybe Divine intervention: "Ye shall make this rifle just a little different, Bob. The mundane Bean guard breaketh, and breaketh again, until the correct guard is chosen in its place."

Mr. Kibler selected a unique guard for his mountain rifle kit, which was great. He chose a very nice example for a prototype. The guard you ended up with is a little different still.

The rifle is shaping up very nicely, and I'm looking forward to seeing it with color and finish.

Best regards,

Notchy Bob
Well, it seems that everything has a reason for it happening! This guard was a cast one that I saw in Track. It looked like a fit and I did a photoshop overlay to a pic of the rifle stock and saw a near fit. Third attempt had me really determined!
Thanks for you insights and support!
 
You've done another beautiful job. I love that there are no inlays or embellishments to distract the beauty of the wood. Can't wait to see it fully finished. I have been cutting and gouging wood for about 4 days now and I don't know how you do it everyday. I guess my age is showing and I do have a new appreciation for you wood workers. Great job..................Labrat
Thanks and yes sometimes ‘less is more’ and it sure seems to apply with this gun. Sometimes when I am doing the tedious fitting or inlays with my exacting knife and rifler files I swear I feel like a dentist! But I love woodworking and getting over my dread of metal, just a little 🤤
 
I got to stain the stock today, using some alkaline dyes. After thoroughly drying I gave it a nice application of Boiled Linseed Oil, which really popped the grain. To add some extra character, I used Kibler's Bone Black (sparingly) to give some more warmth of color around the wrist and a few other places.
I will allow it to cure several days before doing some varnish work.
The first pic is the stock with just the coloring, and the other two are after applying some BLO.
 

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I knew it!! That wood was going to be gorgeous when finished. Good selection on color & finish and the trigger guard it even holds up the rifle. I like it. Nice work shop and man size table to work on. You do phenomenal work and I look forward to your next one........Labrat
 

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