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Buckskin pants start to finish.

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As promised I'll show a pair of pants from beginning to end with descriptions of the steps.
The first part is placing the pattern on the leather to get the most out of what you're working with. The first photo shows one side of the front and there will be right and left pieces cut for this.
The portion above the cut will become the fringe. I use lead ingots to hold the pattern in place for the layout.
The second photo shows the layout, I use Taylors chalk to trace around the pattern.
The next photos show the tracing on the leather and the cut piece.
You absolutely have to remember to reverse the pattern for the next cut because you have to have a right and left side.
I'll continue later today or tomorrow.
 

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Next stage;
The pieces are all cut now, all the other pieces are pretty much the same as the first as layout and cutting are concerned.
The waistband is two pieces 24x4 glued and folded length-wise, cut to length when sewn in place.
Next are the flies. The pattern doesn't call for doubling the leather on the side the buttons are on but I never trusted a single layer on leather to keep the buttons from pulling through so I double it.
The buttonhole side is folded and glued. Again the pattern doesn't call for the saddle stitch the length of the fly but I put one there just for added strength.
 

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Everything is cut at this time and assembly starts.
I use flat sinew split in two and all sewing will be a whip stitch.
The two pieces being sewn need to be basted to prevent overrun at the end of the piece.
It's possible to sew with a round needle but a glover's needle makes it much easier, I keep a small stone on hand to sharpen the needle when necessary.
For lack of a better term, I use a" thumble" to push the needle through the leather. It's made of heavy leather and as it starts to get holes in it I saturate it with super glue to extend its life.
I have tried a sailmaker's palm pad but found it too cumbersome.
 

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Everything is cut at this time and assembly starts.
I use flat sinew split in two and all sewing will be a whip stitch.
The two pieces being sewn need to be basted to prevent overrun at the end of the piece.
It's possible to sew with a round needle but a glover's needle makes it much easier, I keep a small stone on hand to sharpen the needle when necessary.
For lack of a better term, I use a" thumble" to push the needle through the leather. It's made of heavy leather and as it starts to get holes in it I saturate it with super glue to extend its life.
I have tried a sailmaker's palm pad but found it too cumbersome.

That "thumble" of yours is a NEAT little tool!

Gus
 
Everything is cut at this time and assembly starts.
I use flat sinew split in two and all sewing will be a whip stitch.
The two pieces being sewn need to be basted to prevent overrun at the end of the piece.
It's possible to sew with a round needle but a glover's needle makes it much easier, I keep a small stone on hand to sharpen the needle when necessary.
For lack of a better term, I use a" thumble" to push the needle through the leather. It's made of heavy leather and as it starts to get holes in it I saturate it with super glue to extend its life.
I have tried a sailmaker's palm pad but found it too cumbersome.

I made skins in the mid to late 1970's, wished I had thought of something like that back then.

Gus
 
It looks like the thumbstall that muzzleloading artillerymen use to cover the vent when loading the gun. Good idea for secondary use.
I had to look that one up I'd never seen one before. The same sort of idea but the leather used on those wouldn't be heavy enough to keep the needle from pushing through into your thumb.
 
All finished.
The last steps after sewing and cutting the fringe is making the buttons, placing them, and punching the gusset holes
The buttons are cut from antler, I fill the spongy center section with epoxy so the thread doesn't pull through.
When sewing the button in place I go through the.
holes 4 times. on the fourth time come out on the backside of the button and make 5 wraps around the thread to make a shank so the buttons don't bindup. I use a pencil and lightly trace around the outside of the button and place the front fly on them and press to leave an outline so I know basically where the cuts need to be made.
 

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