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Breech Plug

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:eek:ff

Not all man made items can be worked on by others! My poor departed brother was an equal to Bill Gates in PC wizardry (other than right time right place etc.) He made a fortune developing software for many companies. Came with 1-2 years free trouble shooting. Howver after that his hourly rate in trouble shooting made him very wealthy. His codes (or whatever, I am computer illiterate) were not breakable, or it would have cost more to break them than redevelop a whole new system. He was THE ONLY one that could work on it. :eek:ff

So as some plugs were machined by mavhines owned only by the deveolper, I assume another guy could work on it BUT...would that guys time be worth the cost of a new CVA barrel :hmm:
 
I am of the opinion that if something can be done that it should be done. The CVA breech plug is one of those instances. Unless something is very wrong with the barrel at the breech, the CVA breech should be left alone.

If the breech is that bad, then the bad part of the barrel and breech should be cut off and a new breech plug and drum should be installed.
 
I have been told they use inter locking threads. once on cannot be removed. safe as putting a 2nd generation colt barrel on a 1 st gen. once on not coming off. at least being useable again.
 
As per my above post I'm sure it CAN be done but cost would be prohibitive. LOTTA CVA barrels on evilbay :idunno:

I bet that all the barrels returned to CVA for work requiring a breech plug removal resulted in a new barrel being shipped? Anyone have an experience that is similar or not?
 
Never returned one so I can't speak to your replacement theory. CVA breech can be taken apart and put back together, proper alignment is vital on re-assembly. Not the easiest job in the world but not impossible. No evidence of "crush threading" (which a previous poster seemed concerned about), nice, clean threading and once the plug was aligned correctly the drum screwed right back in.

Only did a few, mainly trade ins or auction buys with unknown loads or objects in barrel that wouldn't pull. All were test fired afterwards with no issues and I still have one of them myself which I shoot. One of the unknown loads turned out to be smokeless (stick type powder) a good argument for never firing an unknown load!
 
I was speaking from experience I took one out for a rebore one to fresh out the old way one to make a smooth bore. all went back together with no problems. I made witness marks to make it easier to get the back together.
 
I was looking in the book that came with my T C Hawkens it shows a breech plug wrench that you could purchase to remove the breech plug. They are still available. The breech plug has 11/16-20 threads. The book states if a ball becomes lodged then the rifle must be disassembled and the charge removed.
 
Do not, repeat DO NOT attempt to remove the breech plug. Whoever wrote that instruction book is an ignoramus. The breech rarely, if ever, has to be removed to get a dry ball out. I have had one of those wrench fittings since 1971 and have never used it. If you do dry ball, there are many threads and posts here with advice on how to get it out.
 
:surrender: I suppose removing the nipple and then using water to "remove the charge" could be what is/was meant here? However with a true dryball there is no "charge" to remove :hmm:

Breech plug removal....just DONT!
 
azmntman said:
:surrender: I suppose removing the nipple and then using water to "remove the charge" could be what is/was meant here? However with a true dryball there is no "charge" to remove :hmm:

Breech plug removal....just DONT!
Click to expand...
But with a dryball, a small charge can be inserted through the nipple seat or touchhole and the ball shot out. I just pull the ball with a screw...
 
The book was published in December 1978: Titled Shooting Black Powder Guns Thompson/Center Arms Company Instructions on breech removal are on page 23.
 
I concur with desi23. I've been building and repairing ML for 50 years. CVAs are no different than any other. they screw in, they screw out. Proper alignment is necessary. there are times when a plug must be removed, but not very often, and only by someone qualified. the only plugs I've seen that can't be removed are some of the imports from India, they're welded and completely unsafe.
 
I have no problem with removing a breech plug if necessary but it almost never is.
Actually when all else fails a stuck dry-ball can be melted out with a propane torch, without harming anything including the finish,if it's any good to begin with.
 
Here is a forum link to the revised T/C Handbook; http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/Shooting_TC_Guns.pdf

On page 57 after discussing a misfire situation the handbook states;
If for any reason you are unable to remove the charge in the manner rec-
ommended, soak the barrel in very hot water for one-half hour. Once the pow-
der has been rendered inert, take the barrel to a qualified gunsmith. Explain
the condition and ask that he remove the breech plug, clear the barrel and re-
place the breech plug.
Since the removal of a breech plug involves the risk of bending or
marring of the barrel, the amateur should not attempt to remove the
breech plug itself.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
necchi said:
Here is a forum link to the revised T/C Handbook; http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/Shooting_TC_Guns.pdf

On page 57 after discussing a misfire situation the handbook states;
If for any reason you are unable to remove the charge in the manner rec-
ommended, soak the barrel in very hot water for one-half hour. Once the pow-
der has been rendered inert, take the barrel to a qualified gunsmith. Explain
the condition and ask that he remove the breech plug, clear the barrel and re-
place the breech plug.
Since the removal of a breech plug involves the risk of bending or
marring of the barrel, the amateur should not attempt to remove the
breech plug itself.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
AMEN!.....
 
Last edited by a moderator:
M.D. said:
I have no problem with removing a breech plug if necessary but it almost never is.
Actually when all else fails a stuck dry-ball can be melted out with a propane torch, without harming anything including the finish,if it's any good to begin with.
Click to expand...

Waiting for the next Farmers Insurance Commercial :rotf:
 

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