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I did a semi-scientific study on out-of-round lead projectiles 30 years ago. I had a Lyman mold that was .003 Out of round. Marked the sprue with a sharpie, then proceeded to load them exactly the same, 90 degree orientations, random orientations, etc. even did a blind test with someone loading the ball for me. Not one damn bit of difference in group size, group location, etc. I believe the soft lead projectile deforms easily and as long as the base isn’t mutilated, it doesn’t make a difference. It’s your eyes by the way, try opening or closing the opposite eye. If you aren’t consistent, you’ll get two different sight pictures and two groups. Been there, done that.
 
I did a semi-scientific study on out-of-round lead projectiles 30 years ago. I had a Lyman mold that was .003 Out of round. Marked the sprue with a sharpie, then proceeded to load them exactly the same, 90 degree orientations, random orientations, etc. even did a blind test with someone loading the ball for me. Not one damn bit of difference in group size, group location, etc. I believe the soft lead projectile deforms easily and as long as the base isn’t mutilated, it doesn’t make a difference. It’s your eyes by the way, try opening or closing the opposite eye. If you aren’t consistent, you’ll get two different sight pictures and two groups. Been there, done that.


The Bevel Bros. just did a test in Muzzle Blasts and the results were the same as yours.
 
Careful with chemical solvent suggestions. Some of the curmudgeons will blast you that it’s for modern centerfire stuff and not for traditional muzzleloaders.
I’m one of those grumpy old curmudgeons, but I think that applies to black powder cleaning, not the cleaning of packing grease out of a new barrel
 
I’m one of those grumpy old curmudgeons, but I think that applies to black powder cleaning, not the cleaning of packing grease out of a new barrel
Modern packing grease may require modern ‘stuff’ to remove it, even in a traditional gun. Difficult for manufacturers of traditional arms or shooters of those guns to get traditional rust preventers. They don’t seem to be selling the traditional stuff made from bears or whales at the LGS, nor at WallyWorld, at least around here.
 
I use it and other ‘stuff’ all the time. Just mentioned as some believe it and other modern stuff has no place in muzzleloaders and have called me out on it.
Not a big fan of tossing the baby out with the bathwater just to be traditional, when something works better I will be willing to give it a try, but if the old way still works as well I don't think it's necessary to change to the newest and shinest do-dad .
 
What are you getting by polishing the bore? I mean seriously is it to increase accuracy, or just for the satisfaction of seeing a mirror bright bore? I clean my bores to keep them clean and rust free. I've never felt the need to polish any of them, and they're all bright and shiny inside. The more you fire a muzzleloader, the more the bore gets lapped so I see no reason to do that either.

I clean my black powder guns with hot soapy water, followed by dry patches, followed then by oil or crc soaked patches to coat the bores while in storage. Never once had any buildup of crud. Simply clean the oil out with dry patches before shooting and I'm good to go.
 
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