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Bowie Knife

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lonehunter

58 Cal.
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My version of a primitive Bowie style knife.
10 1/8" X 2" Blade of 0-1 steel
4 5/8" Antler handle
Iron S-guard
Through tang, peened over iron cap.
All very lightly aged
Sheath of 6/7oz veg tan leather, rawhide wrap with brass deer hair cones.
Thanks for looking...James
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Nice job. I like the steel guard since the brass guards always turn green if you leave the knife in a leather sheath for a long period of time. The lack of a Choil- that is good as a rebate in that area could cause the knife to get snagged on ribs and be tough to pull out. I like the file work on the back of the blade.
QUESTION. It looks like you have a rat tail type tang, the end of which has been peen hammered over to hold the handle in place. How do you support the blade as you are hammerring the end of the tang??? Do you anneal the end of the tang? Wrap the blade in wet rags while annealing?
Other q's.. do you use any filler inside the hole in the handle through which the tang fits? I use an epoxy putty but historically there was a substance called cutler's Rosin which was pine resin and powdered charcoal. I collected some pine resin and made up some of this- it is jet black and dries like a rock but to date I haven't used it. Do you solder on the guard? I do on my knives to keep out moisture but I am not sure that soldering on a guard is PC. I suspect the original knives had guards that were fitted tightly to the tang and just held in place by the handle. I think the back of the guard (the part that will be covered by the handle) could be peened with a center punch next to the tang to expand the guard and make a tight fit between guard and tang.
Finally, for a few years now I have wanted to make a sheath common to Bowies where there is a metal tip and a metal collar at the top with a frog. I have tried several times but failed to make anything I like.
 
Thanks all for the kind words.

Crocket,
"QUESTION. It looks like you have a rat tail type tang, the end of which has been peen hammered over to hold the handle in place. How do you support the blade as you are hammerring the end of the tang??? Do you anneal the end of the tang? Wrap the blade in wet rags while annealing?"

The tang of the blade only goes 3/4 of the way through the handle, there is a extention of mild steel silver soldered and pinned with two peened pins (it aint going nowhere) which does away with annealing the tang for peening. The blade is supported by putting it in a vise with padded jaws. As for the peening of the tang, use many light taps of the hammer rather than hard strikes.


"Other q's.. do you use any filler inside the hole in the handle through which the tang fits?"

Ha, Your going to get the PC police on me. :wink:
Devcon two part epoxy, Great stuff. Its not PC like the cutlers resin but its stronger, try to take a handle off that Devcon has been used and you will see why its the only thing I trust.

" Do you solder on the guard?"

A proper fitted guard should need no solder, (Something that I struggle with from time to time)
The guard "should" be tight enough that you need to lightly tap it into place, Solder can be used to hide any gaps or secure the guard in place.(IF NEEDED)
As far as a moisture barrier, The "gulp" Epoxy should flow all the way to the guard through the handle sealing it from moisture intrusion.

"Finally, for a few years now I have wanted to make a sheath common to Bowies where there is a metal tip and a metal collar at the top with a frog. I have tried several times but failed to make anything I like."

Not real hard to do but takes a great deal of skill, LRB has it down pat. I have only made a couple of collars and none worked out on the first try.
 
Dave, go here and use the basic method for the metal tips. http://beknivessite2.homestead.com/nssheath.html The collar/throats are wrapped around the sheath with the sheath having a hard wood or metal insert in the throat area to keep the leather from collapsing while you wrap. I will have the starting edge just past center in the rear then my wrapped edge will be just a little oversized so I can fit it tight to the leather and dead square to the starting edge, which will usually shift to center when the bending gets started. I will then work things to a level butt joint and silver braze the joint. The frog studs are sawed from flat stock in a L or T shape, then ground and filed to what I want. I drill a hole in the base of the stud, and another in the throat, insert a reinforcement pin, and silver braze it on. Trim the pin sticking through the throat and you have it. For the top plate I solder on an oversized plate with 600° cadmium solder, then trim the plate to have a lip over the throat body, and finally drill and file out the blade entry slot.
 
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Thanks Wick- so the deal is you have a lot of hard work to do- that's okay if that's what's needed. As I said I've tried making a few metal tips and throats and never liked the results- something to work on. To me, that type sheath really looks good with a Bowie Knife.
 
Thanks Lone hunter. What I have done on my rat tails is have a half length rat tail that is threaded and then tap a tube that is used as a coupling and soft metal "rat tail" extension -like a coat hanger. When you are done it looks okay but the silver solder creates something more akin to an original. I'm not certain but I think tangs or partial tangs were forge welded on so the silver solder is pretty much the same thing.
 
Nice work on the knife and the case, That guard look real nice. Clean work
 

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