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Bolt/ trigger spring tuning question

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I've read about placing a washer underneath the bolt/trigger spring to lighten the pressure on the bolt and trigger. Obviously, the thickness of the washer selected could create unwanted problems, but has anyone tried this and had acceptable results? I've also read that just backing off the screw that secures the bolt spring can achieve reduced pressure. Thoughts?
 
Gun screws should always be tight. I can't think of a single exception.

A wire bolt/trigger spring will have less tension, and will likely never break. The leaf spring is prone to breakage.
 
I've read about placing a washer underneath the bolt/trigger spring to lighten the pressure on the bolt and trigger. Obviously, the thickness of the washer selected could create unwanted problems, but has anyone tried this and had acceptable results? I've also read that just backing off the screw that secures the bolt spring can achieve reduced pressure. Thoughts?
I just cold bend the ones I make from the fLatt coil spring I took out of a Luftkin tape measure. It already has a curve to it to begin with, It is a high chrome spring steel and is very tough to drill and cut but I've never had one fail either. It's the one on the bottom. They are about half the thickness of the standard spring and give a very light bolt and trigger action.
 

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With the spring installed check the bolt for how much it takes to move it. Adjust as nessasary then check the trigger’s action and bend or file it with out altering the bolt side.
 
Cololab, in my 1860s, (1 Pietta and 1 Uberti) i made a tombstone shaped leather washer. The flat goes toward the hammer. The leather is about .080" thick that compresses to about 1/16". Screw is tight. No loose screws IN my guns, but maybe one BEHIND it! That softens up both trigger and bolt to where theyre smooth as a baby's behind. I also use the same leather to make a rectangular shim under the mainspring. Slick guns when all moving surfaces are polished and lubed with moly wheel bearing grease.
 
If you want to decrease tension further, grind the SIDE of the spring leg you want to ease up. Taper it towards the tip. Dont get crazy, subtle changes. And make your last pass or two with the LENGTH of the spring, even when testing. And lightly bevel the sharp corner you create by grinding, by making an angled pass, WITH THE LENGTH of the spring. You could use a dremel with a sanding drum to bevel the inside of the curve. Grind marks across a flat spring are breaks waiting to happen.
 
Ive had leather washers in my London Navy for quite a while. Seems like theres one in my Remington too. They get harder over time, no big deal, they still maintain their thickness when hard. Theyre more of a shim, really. I always have some leather around, i can make new ones if i feel the need
 
For what it's worth, I was taught to use steel washers. Jim said as the leather, rubber, cork . . . whatever folks will try dries out/ rots, the tension will change. Using steel will maintain the intended setting. Just changing the attitude of combination spring ( bolt / trig ) by raising it with a thin washer lessens the amount of "tuning" you may have to do. Same with the main spring. I use to use them all the time before I switched to coil/ torsion springs.

Mike
 
I really appreciate the comments and suggestions. I'm just going slow with the Pietta 1860 I recently acquired, and attempting to educate myself before I start altering anything. The action and timing are really not that bad, and I don't wish to create problems by changing things.
 
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