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Black Powder fouling in 54

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The prelubed patches are probably lubed with Bore Butter. It will cause hard fouling. Ditch the prelubed patches. Try a wetter patch. Not dripping but good and wet. I have had better luck with a smaller ball and thicker patch.
 
What gun/barrel do you have? I too have experienced a ball loading issue about 5” down but can’t remember which of my guns I had that issue with. When I encountered the added resistance I pushed harder on the ball forcing it on down and fired it out. Is this a brand new gun/barrel? Maybe a rough spot in the rifling?
This is a Colonial kit in 54 cal from Jim Kibler. I believe the barrel is from Green Mountain. The very first time I loaded the patch and ball everything went smooth and easy. I noticed a lot of fouling. It took several cleaning patches with (ballistol & water on them) to remove the fouling. I ran a 50 cal jag with the scotch brite in and out of the barrel and do not feel any rough or tight spots.
 
This is my very first flintlock. I purchased store bought lubed patches in 0.018 and 0.020. It feels like the ball loads pretty easy. I can try the thicker patch. If the ball and patch combo it not tight enough then there is more fouling ? Does this mean all the powder is not burning off. Should I test with 60 grains of 2F ? I can make moose milk if you guys think I should add a small amount to my store bought patches.
A tighter patch combination gives better and more complete combustion. My real thought is to go to 3f powder. Finer granulations burn more efficiently.
 
Goex is a good powder but it's kinda dirty. I've been using Old Ensyford 3f and Swiss 3f powder in my guns lately. Of the 2 brands, I think that the Swiss is the cleanest burning. I'd say to cut your charge to 60 grains just to see if it improves your having to swab between shots. It don't hurt nothing to swab after each shot while target shooting. For hunting, I think that you'd like to reload a second shot without having to swab. In time, you will find what you're rifle likes.
 
I’ve had a couple guns with bad fouling problems.

My little .32 calibre squirrel rifle, just seems yo foul up after every couple shots.

My .50 calibre Pedersoli Alamo Rifle used to foul real bad...2shots and could not the 3rd ball down the barrel unless you used a mallet.

I took a tight fitting cleaning patch, put some gun oil on it and some valve grinding compound and lapped the barrel.

Fouling issue went away and the gun suddenly decided to shoot 1” groups from the bench at 100 yards.
 
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One of the guys at the range yesterday told me that Swiss 2F does not foul the barrel at all ?
All powders will foul the barrel. The difference is the quantity of the fouling. Swiss will foul less than GOEX, but it will leave fouling. So does Pyrodex and 777 as well as any of the synthetic powders. There may be less apparent fouling, but the fouling is still there.

Now, how does one deal with the fouling? Wiping between shots is one way. You do have to be careful not to push fouling into the flash channel.

Not wiping but using a wet patch for the ball is another. But you need to be shooting soon after loading or the very wet lube can reduce the effectiveness of the powder.
 
I lov the video even though I’m just learning and just bought the very same Great Plains 54cal!! Thanks for teaching me with all the ideas too !
 
another believer in a wet spit patch, they work. another good lube is murphy's oil soap and denatured alcohol mixed 50/50, and swiss powder is hot. after about 5 shots in my SMR it builds up a crud ring about 5 in. from the bottom, goex won't,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
A month ago I had a marathon range session at least in my terms. I shot around 75 shots or so through my 54 renegade. I used 2f goex and prelubed patches lubed with wonder lube. I swabbed the bore with a wet patch dampened with ballistol and water every 7-10 shots.

Sometimes loading would get tough after 6-7 shots other times I could get 10 shots without loading getting hard.
 
Now, how does one deal with the fouling? Wiping between shots is one way. You do have to be careful not to push fouling into the flash channel.
One interesting way of avoiding that, I learned on here, is to pour your powder in, then the ball. THEN WIPE. I f you bust out any fouling and push it down the bore its on top of the load, not blocking anything, and gets shot out! :thumb:
 
I have noticed a MARKED difference in fouling when I use some kind of grease lube vs. a spit patch! I can shoot 6-8 rounds with spit patch without swabbing, but when I switch to a "lubed" patch the bore gets pretty jammed up after 2-3 shots. This is with Goex 3F.
 
Thanks to everyone for all the replies. I think I will try 3F at about 60 grains to see what happens.
yes stop wasting powder. I have a 50 cal. use 50 to 60 gr. of powder with a 350gr. max hunter bullet. at 50 to 75 yards goes through a 3 to 4 in. phonebook and the 1/4 in. plywood be hind it. more than enough to kill anything. many bison were killed from a long distance with a 45/70 blackpowerd gun.
 
yes stop wasting powder. I have a 50 cal. use 50 to 60 gr. of powder with a 350gr. max hunter bullet. at 50 to 75 yards goes through a 3 to 4 in. phonebook and the 1/4 in. plywood be hind it. more than enough to kill anything. many bison were killed from a long distance with a 45/70 blackpowerd gun.
I am very knew to this and had read that 60 to 80 grains was typical. Not sure how your 350gr bullet compares to a patched round ball . I assume this is a conical bullet. I am hoping my biggest problem is that my store bought lubed patches are too dry. I ordered unlubed patches to try again.
 
I have shot a flint .54 for years. It's a Getz barrel with round bottom rifling. I did have the barrel coned. I shoot a .526 ball with a .012 spit patch. At 25 yards I use 55 grains of Goex 3F for any distance beyond 25 yards I shoot 75 grains. At 25 yards both charges hit in the same spot. With this load I can expect to get up to 20 shots off without having to clean depending on the humidity. IMHO your load is too tight and you are working too hard.
 
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