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Black Powder & Alternative Differences

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Hello again everyone.
My question is the differences between black powder and the alternative like Pyrodex. I would like the pros and cons and any other info that would be useful.

Locally all I have available is Pyrodex 2F and 3F. To get actual black powder I would have to order online and pay the HAZMAT fee or travel 1.5/2 hours to Grand Rapids, MI to Cabela's and probably some other gun shops.
Thanks for any info,
MG
 
You can search that subject here and find hoards of information. If you don't shoot much and Pyrodex is readily available (and you shoot a percussion lock) then it will serve you well. If you are going to shoot 3 pounds or more in a year then go ahead and order some goex, 5 pounds (or more). That will make the hazmat fee worthwhile.
 
Synopsis of previous posts:
Pro: you can find it lots of places because of different storage restrictions, so you may not need to travel too far to get some/some of them burn cleaner leaving less residual ash
Con: Hazmat fees are the same for BP and Substitutes/they don't ignite well as priming charge in flintlock pans/while they may leave less residue in some cases in the barrel, they are just as corrosive/they ARE more expensive.

The actual hazmat fee, alone, is $12.50..., which is just about the cost of one pound of "reenactor" grade powder [powder for blanks] as opposed to shootin' or huntin' powder, and it's a flat fee. Shipping is flat too at about $10.00.

Would a 3-hour round trip cost you $10.00 worth of gas? The difference being that you don't lose 3 hours of driving on the highway. ;)

What does the Cabela's charge for their powder? For me it's like $12.00 more per pound if I buy it at my local Mom-n-Pop store, only 25 minutes from my home.:confused:

Any chance you can check with a local BP club and see if they order in bulk and you can jump onto their order?

Of course as suggested, you might simply consider getting around 6 lbs. of the stuff. Yes, that's a bit of coin to drop, but depending on how much you shoot it's well worth the time and the savings. The stuff isn't going to go bad sitting on your shelf under controlled temps. And it's only going to go up in price. ;)

LD
 
Pyrodex is more corrosive than BP and Pyrodex has a shelf life where BP does not.

True as true can be about corrosion. But I'm starting to wonder about the "limited" shelf life of Pyrodex. I'm not quite sure when Pyrodex was first released, but I still have several cans from a case I bought in 1978. Each year I shoot it from the same rifle over my chronograph for velocity while also looking for ignition problems. The can I'm currently operating from was first opened almost 10 years ago, the slow consumption due to my limited uses for test firing only. We live in a wet climate (90 inches of rain a year) right on the ocean, so humidity is through the roof. So far I've found zero loss in velocity, and there's no sign of ignition problems. Good enough for me especially when it would take an act of congress (literally) to ship in real black powder.
 
Are you shooting flintlock or percussion ?
Pyrodex won't work in a flint lock.
 
But I'm starting to wonder about the "limited" shelf life of Pyrodex. I'm not quite sure when Pyrodex was first released, but I still have several cans from a case I bought in 1978. Each year I shoot it from the same rifle over my chronograph for velocity while also looking for ignition problems. The can I'm currently operating from was first opened almost 10 years ago, the slow consumption due to my limited uses for test firing only. We live in a wet climate (90 inches of rain a year) right on the ocean, so humidity is through the roof. So far I've found zero loss in velocity, and there's no sign of ignition problems. .

I agree, The only "limited shelf life" I have experienced was due to improper storage or handling. I have pyrodex from 25 years ago that shoots just fine. Pyrodex may have had an issue early on when it was packaged in cardboard canisters but that has long since been resolved.
 
One pound fake is about 20% ligher. If you shoot a seventy grain charge you 100 shots from a pound of powder, 120 shots from pyrodex.
To shoot it in a flint lock you have to put a kicker of about ten grains under your charge and the reduce your primary charge by ten grains.
Stored right it will last as long as you need it. It is more corrosive, but any black powder arm should be cleaned the day you shoot and pyrodex is no harder to clean then black.
Some shooters have had good success shooting regularly and keeping the gun in a warm dry enviorment white out problems shooting black. You can’t do that with pyrodex.
I like black, and it’s what was used in the old days. So I can be elitist, and say black goes in traditional arms, pyrodex in non or simi- traditional. But it’s just elitism. Should you have a nipple hugger no one, including you will note any difference in hunting plinking or competition. Should you have a rock in the lock you add an extra step to your shooting. Should you take care of your gun diligently you won’t notice any difference then.
But it ain’t black. Humph.
 
Are you shooting flintlock or percussion ?
Pyrodex won't work in a flint lock.

If you're asking me, I've made Pyrodex work in my flinters by adding a kicker charge of 3f black to the bore before pouring in the Pyrodex, then using 3f black in the pan. Not my first choice, so my limited store of black is mostly reserved for the flinters. But I needed to know how to make it work, against the day when my supply of black gets even lower.

Probably worth adding a bit more info on the black kicker charge. There's a relationship between bore size and how much to use, at least in my experience. For 54 cal and below, 10 grains is fine. Start moving above 54 cal with a 10 grain kicker and you'll get a FTF or slow ignition now and then, probably due to powder distribution in the bore. I now use 15 grains in 58 and 62 caliber and 20 grains in my Bess. No more FTF or slow fire.
 
Psssstttt. Don’t tell any one, but this dyed in the capote traditionalist has pyrodex loaded in his revolvers.

I actually like pyrodex for revolvers. Since revolvers have inline ignition they don't suffer from ignition problems when using substitutes like other guns do.

Pyrodex also has softer more "lubricative" fouling than real black powder. and this keeps it shooting longer without cleaning.

The extra corrosivity of pyrodex isn't an issue for me with a revolver because I can remove the grips and place the whole gun in a parts washer. Note: I wash it in a bucket of warms soapy water first.

Every powder has a niche use and drawbacks. Real black powder just happens to have the widest range of applicability and ease of use. Making it the best all around choice.
 
Last edited:
If you're asking me, .
No, sorry. That was meant for the OP.

Yes pyrodex can be used in a flintlock if you use real black powder. without real black powder it won't work. It's the real black powder that works, that provides ignition.
There is no benefit to using both powders simultaneously and no benefit to using pyrodex in a flintlock.
 
Synopsis of previous posts:
Pro: you can find it lots of places because of different storage restrictions, so you may not need to travel too far to get some/some of them burn cleaner leaving less residual ash
Con: Hazmat fees are the same for BP and Substitutes/they don't ignite well as priming charge in flintlock pans/while they may leave less residue in some cases in the barrel, they are just as corrosive/they ARE more expensive.

The actual hazmat fee, alone, is $12.50..., which is just about the cost of one pound of "reenactor" grade powder [powder for blanks] as opposed to shootin' or huntin' powder, and it's a flat fee. Shipping is flat too at about $10.00.

Would a 3-hour round trip cost you $10.00 worth of gas? The difference being that you don't lose 3 hours of driving on the highway. ;)

What does the Cabela's charge for their powder? For me it's like $12.00 more per pound if I buy it at my local Mom-n-Pop store, only 25 minutes from my home.:confused:

Any chance you can check with a local BP club and see if they order in bulk and you can jump onto their order?

Of course as suggested, you might simply consider getting around 6 lbs. of the stuff. Yes, that's a bit of coin to drop, but depending on how much you shoot it's well worth the time and the savings. The stuff isn't going to go bad sitting on your shelf under controlled temps. And it's only going to go up in price. ;)

LD


Well right now it would not cost me much time or gas as I would reserve those trips for when I go to the VA actually come to think about it. I don't remember the costs of BP or Pyrodex off the top of my head but I did pay around $24.00 for some Pyrodex pistol pellets(100ea) for the revolver we got.

Whats a good way to find a BP club? I don't know of one locally.
 
You can search that subject here and find hoards of information. If you don't shoot much and Pyrodex is readily available (and you shoot a percussion lock) then it will serve you well. If you are going to shoot 3 pounds or more in a year then go ahead and order some goex, 5 pounds (or more). That will make the hazmat fee worthwhile.

Yeah, not for sure how much I am going to shoot right now. Its winter here so its limited. Once spring is here then I would like to think I will be shooting weekly.
 
Are you shooting flintlock or percussion ?
Pyrodex won't work in a flint lock.

Percussion revolver right now(Pietta 1858). I would like to get a rifle and shotgun also and I have not ruled out flint. Having a flint is good for preparedness as you can with practice make BP. So I am told anyways.
 
One pound fake is about 20% higher. If you shoot a seventy grain charge you 100 shots from a pound of powder, 120 shots from pyrodex.

So if I understand you right your saying you get more shots with Pyrodex with the same weight, Pyrodex vs. black powder?
 
I actually like pyrodex for revolvers. Since revolvers have inline ignition they don't suffer from ignition problems when using substitutes like other guns do.

Pyrodex also has softer more "lubricative" fouling than real black powder. and this keeps it shooting longer without cleaning.

The extra corrosivity of pyrodex isn't an issue for me with a revolver because I can remove the grips and place the whole gun in a parts washer. Note: I wash it in a bucket of warms soapy water first.

Every powder has a niche use and drawbacks. Real black powder just happens to have the widest range of applicability and ease of use. Making it the best all around choice.


I am using the Pyrodex pellets and Remington caps for my Pietta 1858 and so far have not had one issue firing it. Granted I have only put 3 cylinders thru it so far. I am not going to fire it anymore until I get my nipple wrench for it. The one I ordered for it was the wrong one so now I am waiting again. Should get it by this weekend.
 
Yes, a pound is 7000 grains. And when you load pyrodex you use the same measure. Say you have a 70 grain black powder measure and you fill it with pyrodex it will weigh about 56 grains. You shoot volume for volume of pyrodex with black so you get about 20% more shots per pound.
 
I shoot BP most of the time, but do occasionally use Pyrodex. I have some that has been around for years and it seems to still work fine. I've used both the RS and Pistol Pyrodex. As Tenngun noted, it seems to work well in cap and ball revolvers. I've also had pretty good luck with it in a TC Hawken. I also use black powder on a regular basis. It does seem that Pyrodex takes more work to clean after shooting.

You mentioned Cabelas for BP. You might want to check before driving to get some black powder there. I don't know if they carry it.
 
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