Black on Patch

[ericb]

When cleaning Pedersoli Charleville (plain tepid water - sometimes a few drops Murphy's - followed by dry patches - followed by BreakFree Patches for storage) no mater how clean the patches come out after the H20 cleaning, when I run the Break Free patch down it always comes out with black Jag rings. This also happens with Shooter's Choice, Hoppes, etc. Follow up with more patches reduces the Black, but there's always something. Yesterday, after 45 round session & thorough cleaning, to include Bore Brushing, afterwards I noticed that when I wrapped a BreakFree patch around the Barrel to wipe down before putting it in the stock, there was a black residue on the patch. Likewise, when I wipe down the .50 cal GI rod I use, it too had a blackish smear. This happens no matter how clean the Rod is. Been studying this a while, and am convinced this black is not fouling or leading. Any thoughts? Am not new to this - been doing BP since the Mid 60's...

Eric

 

[luieb45]

I get that a lot, too. It's not powder residue and what I think it is, is rust in it's early state :idunno:.

 

[David W.]

I believe you should try Ballistol. CLP Breakfree is a good rust preventive, but not a good cleaner. I have cleaned with several products in the past and have had dirty patches a couple of days later. After using Ballistol, I get no more dirty patches.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Its most likely Graphite- a fine carbon that is used to coat the granules to prevent static electricity from igniting the powder.

The only way I have been able to remove all the graphite from a barrel is by flushing the barrel with alcohol, and running a few alcohol soaked patches down the barrel. Then, the patches come out as white as when they go in! :v :grin: :hmm: :surrender: :thumbsup:

No matter what kind of soap and water I use, nor how long I soak the barrel with it, or how hot or cold the water is, soap and water simply don't remove the graphite, completely. Alcohol does. I don't know why one works and the other doesn't. I suspect it has to do with electrons, but that is only a guess. :hmm: :idunno: :surrender: :thumbsup:

 

[ericb]

I use the BreakFree as a preservative, after thorough cleaning with water, brush, & patches. I've had good luck with BreakFree as a preservative. When I was working out of state I could BreakFree my guns and come home a year later and they looked like the day I put them away. But I've been paying attention to all the comments on Balistol here, and think I may just make the switch. But the nature of this occurence is confounding me (but then, that's easily done)...

E

 

[ericb]

Thanx, Paul - I was thinking along those lines - was convinced it had nothing to do with fouling. Will give the Alchohol a whirl...will post results when time comes...


E

 

[tg]

Whatever it is it will not result in any problems if left for a long period of time if the gu has been cleaned well and lubed I have left this in the barrel for months in a high humid climate with no rust or any further accelration of the slight discoloration which occurs as described

 

[paulvallandigham]

I agree with Tg, on this. if its only graphite, it usually does no harm, provided the barrel is oiled. The oil keeps water from attaching to the graphite, and introducing rust. I found that out using Ballistol on my rifle barrel after a cleaning where I didn't get all the graphite out, and didn't have time to flush the barrel with alcohol. I ran a new patch down a week later, to remove the Ballistol before flushing the barrel with alcohol, and I did pull oil and some gray stuff out, but NO rust.

When I flushed the remaining oil and graphite with alcohol, they both came out, and the new patches pushed down to dry the barrel came back out WHITE! I then re-oiled the barrel with Ballistol, as I was wanting to test its longevity as a storage oil. :thumbsup:

 

[ericb]

Thanx all - We now have a plan - I shall get to the bottom of this - on the prowl for some 90% Isopropyl...

E

 

[David W.]

Thanx all - We now have a plan - I shall get to the bottom of this - on the prowl for some 90% Isopropyl...

E

I know nothing about how graphite would be involved shooting cap and ball. I guess it can happen though. :hmm:

I The 90% alcohol is a good thing to use and I should have mentioned it, but I still find Ballistol a must have.

I purchase my 90% alcohol at the local kroger, but anyone with a pharmacy should have it on the shelf. You can also use denatured alcohol which is 100% and can be found at paint stores or the big box stores. Even Wally-World has it.

 

[David W.]

I get that a lot, too. It's not powder residue and what I think it is, is rust in it's early state :idunno:.

Luie, rust is reddish brown, not black. :v

 

[jtmattison]

I get the same thing. I can run 5-6 patches through it while doing the warm soapy water flush. The patches are clean. Then when I run dry patches in they come out filthy. It usually takes 5-6 dry patches to come out clean. Then I oil the heck out of it with Re-Oil and blow out the excess with my compressor. I've never had a speck rust, ever.

HD

 

[Joel/Calgary]

I purchase my 90% alcohol at the local kroger, but anyone with a pharmacy should have it on the shelf. You can also use denatured alcohol which is 100% and can be found at paint stores or the big box stores. Even Wally-World has it.

Around here, 100% methyl alcohol is fairly common, and cheap, in sizes up to gallon jugs as thinner, gas-line antifreeze, fondue fuel, and probably some other things I can't recall at the moment. I usually get it in hardware sections or stores, in with the thinners, or in the automotive department or gas stations as gas line antifreeze. It sometimes gets labeled as "methanol", but probably more often as "methyl hydrate" to confuse the idiots that might try to drink anything they think is an alcohol.

Regards,
Joel

 

[William O.]

I'm going to recommend using an alcohol dampened cleaning patch in between shots or every few shots at the range because it really helps clean out a lot of crud. I always swab the barrel before starting another session to make sure there isn't any excess rust prevention oil left to contaminate the powder charge as well.

 

[ericb]

Gonna try the Alchohol after next session. Was gonna go today, but Game Commision Range sometimes gets a little crowded on Weekends (crowded to me means more than 2-3 other Shooters). Mid week promises to be sunny, cooler & drier - Will file a report after I go...

Eric

 

[William O.]

Gonna try the Alchohol after next session. Was gonna go today, but Game Commision Range sometimes gets a little crowded on Weekends (crowded to me means more than 2-3 other Shooters). Mid week promises to be sunny, cooler & drier - Will file a report after I go...
Eric

I hear that, afternoon temps around here have been in the triple digits with more of the same predicted through next week. Get the highest percentage of alcohol you can get, 91% is good.

 

[Diggerfly]

I read through what everyone had to say and no one seems to use bore butter on/ in their barrel before putting it away.

I'm pretty new to BP gun care and I've been under the impression from comments at other sites that Bore Butter was THE stuff to use. (People even have involved methods on how to apply it)

Is using the break free or other oil just as effective for storage?

 

[paulvallandigham]

It really depends on how LONG you will be storing any gun to determine what kind of oil needs to be used. I use Young Country 101, a predecessor to Bore Butter, or Wonderlube, in my gun, but my gun is stored in my closet, in an air conditioned house, where humidity is kept low. I have also used a range of different products over the years when storing the gun. I will use thin oils in the bore when its only going to be "stored" overnight or for a couple of days before shooting.

Sheath,by Birchwood/Casey products is probably the best stuff to use for long-term storage- that means 30 days or more. Only if you routinely dust, clean and re-oil your guns each week or month can you get by with lesser products. :thumbsup:

 

[ericb]

FWIW I've always found BreakFree to be excellent as a preservative and lubricant, but not as a solvent...

Eric

 

[shortbow]

I never use any petroleum products on my BP guns, inside or out. For close to thirty years I've used a lube made of beeswax and olive oil and I use this same stuff as a bore preservative. Using it on Vancouver Island and other wet environments I've stored guns this way for long periods and have never had any problems of any kind, and it's already in there as a pre-lube when I load.

I just recently found Track's Mink Oil and it is superior. For a light oil for lock guts and such, try Jojoba oil.