Best way to take up the slack?

[wiscoaster]

In my Kentucky pistol build I've discovered that with the tang screw screwed all the way into the trigger plate (ie that's as far as it goes) there's still some play. I'm thinking I could shim the tang, I could shim the trigger plate, or both, or I could shorten the screw. For you guys that have done these pistol kit builds, do you have an opinion on the best way to handle this? Thanks ...

 

[2 shots]

seems the screw is not threaded high enough? donr think shortening it would help. maybe thread it up higher.

 

[necchi]

with the tang screw screwed all the way into the trigger plate (ie that's as far as it goes) there's still some play.

"Play" in what? Where is it loose?
FWIW, those kit's are notorious for having the trigger inlet too deep.
The finished tang install should be flush with the stock.
You have not shown us the relation of the trigger cam position to the lock sear access of the stock in any of your photos, nor of the tang screw itself installed that could demonstrate where it could be loose,,
Show us how to help,,?
My money is on shimming or re-bedding the front section of the trigger inlet.

 

[hawkeye2]

Extend the threads further up the screw, screw it in till it's tight, mark the screw and cut off the excess.

 

[necchi]

Extend the threads further up the screw, screw it in till it's tight, mark the screw and cut off the excess.

When did they put a shoulder on that bolt? It was always just a freaking screw??
Part of the problem is folks think ya need a gorilla to the tighten screws.(!)
It's a GUN! They gotta be TIGHT!!
p.s. ,,it's wood,,

 

[hawkeye2]

When did they put a shoulder on that bolt? It was always just a freaking screw??
Part of the problem is folks think it takes a gorilla to tighten screws.(!)

I've never seen one with a shoulder.

 

[necchi]

I've never seen one with a shoulder.

OK, I take that back,, when did they stop supplying fully threaded bolts?
Like every shade tree kit builder is going to have an 4x1mm thread die in their pocket??

 

[wiscoaster]

seems the screw is not threaded high enough? donr think shortening it would help. maybe thread it up higher.

No, there's plenty of thread. The screw stops when it gets flush with the trigger plate and can't be screwed in further. Can't think of the technical name, but this is the usual case with action screws, in my experience with milsurps.

 

[wiscoaster]

"Play" in what? Where is it loose?

Both trigger plate and tang.

FWIW, those kit's are notorious for having the trigger inlet too deep.
....
My money is on shimming or re-bedding the front section of the trigger inlet.

I think that's the answer here.

You have not shown us the relation of the trigger cam position to the lock sear access of the stock in any of your photos,

That's still pending where the trigger plate ends up, no? But I'll see what I can do. Taking a pic of the tang screw wouldn't show anything. The play isn't visible, it's "felt".

 

[wiscoaster]

With a shim under the front of the trigger plate, it's now tight. Unfortunately, I can't align the screw slot fore and aft. It's at a right angle with the screw in as far as it goes. So, maybe I'll still shorten it anyway.

 

[necchi]

No, there's plenty of thread. The screw stops when it gets flush with the trigger plate and can't be screwed in further. Can't think of the technical name, but this is the usual case with action screws, in my experience with milsurps.

That shouldn't happen with this kit. There must be a burr left in the tapped hole of the trigger plate.
I'd take the trigger plate and tang screw to the hardware store and get another screw for it,,
,, then I'd use that screw to force all the way through the trigger plate.
(or find someone with metric taps)
Once that hole is clear you should be able to use the factory screw to get the proper hold you need

 

[wiscoaster]

That shouldn't happen with this kit.

OK, thanks for that advice. I'll go with it.