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Best projectile diameters

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Maybe 777 pellets don't have the kicker ?

It should be plainly visible so you'll know either way

It's been since about 2001 since I've used Pyrodex and 777 pellets
 
So I’ve heard a great deal of various numbers for .36 and .44 bullet/ball diameters, and am curious if there is some chart or organized collection of data that helps unravel what is the “best” projectile diameters that seal the chambers and effectively engage the barrel rifling without experimenting with order after order (and delay after delay) of increasing sizes to find the best size. Thanks for any recommendations. Tom KC3QAC
If you are talking about C&B revolvers, only surefire way is to measure the barrel rifling diameter relative to the diameter of the chambers. I have found a cylinder chamber diameter a couple of thousands larger than the rifling diameter with a properly fitting ball or bullet to give the best accuracy. There is a significant difference, at least in my opinion, if ‘accuracy’ is a concern, between Pietta and Uberti pistol rifling diameter for example.

You can measure the cylinder chambers (and ream if necessary) and bore rifling diameters for the correct ball size, or use trial and error experimentation process and hope for the best.
 
Thanks for illustrating my point guys.

Thanks guys
Tell us what you’re shooting, uberti or Pietta, and we’ll tell you what it needs. If it’s a stock pistol there’s no mystery to it. You can make it as easy or difficult as possible. Some people chase accuracy and performance from these old guns. Others just content to bang away at tin cans.

If you are talking about C&B revolvers, only surefire way is to measure the barrel rifling diameter relative to the diameter of the chambers. I have found a cylinder chamber diameter a couple of thousands larger than the rifling diameter with a properly fitting ball or bullet to give the best accuracy. There is a significant difference, at least in my opinion, if ‘accuracy’ is a concern, between Pietta and Uberti pistol rifling diameter for example.

You can measure the cylinder chambers (and ream if necessary) and bore rifling diameters for the correct ball size, or use trial and error experimentation process and hope for the best.
 
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So Stan, what is the pellet consistency? Is it like baked ceramic, soft cork, or somewhere in between?
It’s just pressed but if you try to cut or trim them they’ll crumble. The good news is that then you’ll be left with loose powder which is just what you needed. The triple 7 pellets are made only and specifically for rifles to the best of my knowledge. I believe there’s a warning on the package against their use in pistols. They are nearly twice as much propellant as the guns are designed for.
 
It’s just pressed but if you try to cut or trim them they’ll crumble. The good news is that then you’ll be left with loose powder which is just what you needed. The triple 7 pellets are made only and specifically for rifles to the best of my knowledge. I believe there’s a warning on the package against their use in pistols. They are nearly twice as much propellant as the guns are designed for.
They may be hard to ignite even with CCI #11 Magnums in a revolver but I have used loose 777 in revolvers with no problems

But , unless you have a Dragoon or Walker they won't fit

The pellets I used were made for revolvers ,those had the "kicker" ring
 
They may be hard to ignite even with CCI #11 Magnums in a revolver but I have used loose 777 in revolvers with no problems

But , unless you have a Dragoon or Walker they won't fit

The pellets I used were made for revolvers ,those had the "kicker" ring
50 grains of T7 is a load alright…

I don't mean to suggest the T7 isn't a good powder for revolvers. I liked it just fine. It doesn't contain Sulphur which makes it smell weird to me. Real black powder has the right smell and works great, but I could happily shoot T7 the rest of my days if that's what I had to do.
 
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.451 RBs didn't cut a ring in my Pietta 1860 Army so I ordered some .454 RBs - if the .454s don't cut a decent ring, I'll order some .457s. I get a nice ring on my Uberti .36 Navy using .395 RBs so I'm happy with them. I don't know if the .451 RBs can be sized down to .395 or not - I hate to waste them by never using them.
 
I have some T7 pellets made for .44 percussion revolvers. I think they are 30gr equivalent. I have never used them, somebody must have given them to me because I don't remember buying them.
 
.451 RBs didn't cut a ring in my Pietta 1860 Army so I ordered some .454 RBs - if the .454s don't cut a decent ring, I'll order some .457s. I get a nice ring on my Uberti .36 Navy using .395 RBs so I'm happy with them. I don't know if the .451 RBs can be sized down to .395 or not - I hate to waste them by never using them.
I don't think I have any .451's. but then I don't have but one Pietta 1860 and it's now been bored to .453 so .457 work in it. In ball ammo I find the .457 ball works in everything, even undersized .446-.449 chambers. Some folks complain about the seating pressure required but I've never had a problem, even with the short levers on 5.5" guns. Soft lead balls are, well... soft...
 
I shot my paper cartridges in both the 1860 Army and the 1861 Navy today. The paper cartridges worked pretty well except for one came loose and got BP all over the other cartridges in one box. Naturally, the loose BP stuck to the lead round balls and I tore a few up trying to get the grains of powder off. I did have some rather large remnants of paper in the cylinders, so I may need to nitrate the coffee filters I used in the future (the 1860 actually locked up with visible paper between the face of the cylinder and barrel forcing cone).
 
I have been casting the Lee REAL bullet in a .45 200 gr. I am getting an itch to throw 25 gr in the 1860's chambers n load a cyl. full n try them out. I did not shoot a tick toter with my 1860 this hunting season. I have 2 Bucks with in 15 yds but i did not want to shoot either as their racks were on the small side. I had just shot a big Doe they were chasing. I just did some sight picture aiming at them.
 
50 grains of T7 is a load alright…

I don't mean to suggest the T7 isn't a good powder for revolvers. I liked it just fine. It doesn't contain Sulphur which makes it smell weird to me. Real black powder has the right smell and works great, but I could happily shoot T7 the rest of my days if that's what I had to do.
I know exactly what you're saying....the other day I was shooting 777 and it just didn't have the sound , or the smell.....it smells kinda like dirty smokeless and has more of a "crack " on firing

Yesterday, shooting Old Eynsford , blowing big clouds out of the Walkers , I'd cap off 6 rounds then walk through the cloud to look at my target all like 🤠

I even went to Walmart afterward and I could still smell the Black in my sweatshirt

777 has it's utility and it does run a lot cleaner, I shoot a lot of it because it just works better in some of my guns , and if it ain't broke I don't fix it. My Euroarms Zouave does well with 777 and musket caps light it off, so I just roll with it.
 
I have been casting the Lee REAL bullet in a .45 200 gr. I am getting an itch to throw 25 gr in the 1860's chambers n load a cyl. full n try them out. I did not shoot a tick toter with my 1860 this hunting season. I have 2 Bucks with in 15 yds but i did not want to shoot either as their racks were on the small side. I had just shot a big Doe they were chasing. I just did some sight picture aiming at them.
Somebody sent me a couple dozen of those 200 grain bullets. I’m not sure if I ever shot them. I should dig them out…
 
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