Best glue for ball starter?

[Omahkapi'si]

Wood to antler...what are you guys using to stick ‘em? Thanks ahead of time.

 

[flinter1977]

i use any type of epoxy i have on hand .both surfaces ruffed up and clean . should be fine.

 

[Omahkapi'si]

ok thks, working on one....

 

[Larry Akers]

What Flinter said plus a cross pin.

 

[FishDFly]

Longer drying epoxy is stronger than 5 minute epoxy by along shot!

 

[Eutycus]

I agree stick with the original stuff and shy away from the cheaper stuff. I bought a few tubes of Harbor Freight's version of JB Weld last year and what a waste. Next to worthless could describe it. And I wholeheartedly agree on the crosspin.

 

[Ames]

If you can do it I like threaded and epoxied. Never going to come out.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Wood to antler...what are you guys using to stick ‘em? Thanks ahead of time.

In my opinion (for what ever it is worth) there is no exit exertion on a ball starter rod anyway. Why be concerned like we are with a RR that would be used to pull a bullet? I rough up the antler and use good old Elmers wood glue. Using a good fit of course!

 

[Rifleman1776]

I use whatever is at hand. However, I most often choose Titebond II or TB III. My last choice is epoxy because it becomes brittle and can fail. I have made many of these and never a problem. I do not cross pin.

 

[Omahkapi'si]

Well we'll see how she goes....thanks all

 

[Des52]

I use whatever is at hand. However, I most often choose Titebond II or TB III. My last choice is epoxy because it becomes brittle and can fail. I have made many of these and never a problem. I do not cross pin.

I have to agree with Rifleman 1776, when working with antler Titebond is my go to glue. They even have a hide glue for traditionals.

 

[Two Feathers]

For what it's worth. Check this. Titebond Liquid Hide Glue | stewmac.com
I used t be a Luthier (guitar maker) This is what I used. GREAT stuff!
God bless:
Two Feathers

 

[appalichian hunter]

Gorilla super glue, and a cross pin. Regular gorilla glue also works just remember to dampen the parts before putting them together.

 

[ohio ramrod]

For antler I use a thin super glue, just because I always have some handy and it penetrates into the antler

 

[Omahkapi'si]

Going to work on it tomorrow evening, we'll see how it goes. I am using a dowel rod, hope that works ok. It won't be real long so should be sturdy enough. Still not sure what to put on the end, maybe an old brass cartridge case. I have a few extra brass jags and such too.

 

[appalichian hunter]

I use old brass pistol casings, use a Dremel or belt sander to remove the stampings on the head of the casing then take the Dremel with a proper sized ball cutter to enlarge the primer pocket, smooth it all out where you cut with a bit of fine emery cloth, then mate it to the shaft of the starter once proper fit is established glue the casing in place, drill a small hole through the casing with a small counter sink on the holes use a small finishing nail through the casing and shaft, snip off the extra nail sticking out both sides of the case peen in place and sand the peened nail smooth to the casing. A proper sized piece of dowel will work just fine.

 

[firestick]

Slow cure epoxy and then pinned. My preference is regular JB Weld.

 

[Colterkid]

I like the slow curing epoxy. I also drilled a small hole in the end of the ball starter to help the ramrod with a tight fitting ball.

 

[andy52]

Here's one I made last week out of elk antler I just used 24 hr epoxy, there's really no pulling pressure so I didn't pin it. The brass is cupped using a rotary files rather then drilled and tapped for a jag.

 

[pooch156]

I agree stick with the original stuff and shy away from the cheaper stuff. I bought a few tubes of Harbor Freight's version of JB Weld last year and what a waste. Next to worthless could describe it. And I wholeheartedly agree on the crosspin.

I had the same issues with the HF version of JB Weld. Yes, cross pins are a must!