barrel pins in blind holes, removal?

[S.Kenton]

Now there's an idea!

I would tape or heavy rubber band wooden blocks to the stock on the off side as close to the probable exit wound as possible. The tape/blocks will stop any major splitting. If you tap the visible end of the pin carefully you should see a wood pimple start to appear where the pin will exit. Mark it, drill it, make new, longer pins.

That's the way I would go ....hands down...

 

[Tom A Hawk]

Is there a manufacturer's name on this musket? The slotted lug concept bears further investigation.

 

[Carbon 6]

I'll admit hooked/slotted lugs didn't cross my mind.

 

[Scota4570]

If you try to drive them through clamp a piece of hardwood to the back side to lessen tear out.

 

[feamir]

I would carefully measure and see if a small bit or even a straight pin would hit the other end of the barrel pin. Once sure of the location you could drill out the blind side enough to get a small punch in the hole to knock out the pin.

I tried your suggestion. Did not locate the pins. Thank you Feamir

 

[feamir]

No idea why they wouldn't drill all the way thru? It's actually harder not to.
Here's an idea..... could the underlugs be slotted, so,they slide into place on a permanent pin? If so, removing a couple of screws, and a light tap with a mallet, just might get that barrel out.
Other than that, you're not damaging a high end firearm. The appropriate size punch, and drive them out.

I have removed all the screws. Tried the tap method no luck. Thank you for the idea Feamir

 

[feamir]

I have a gun that the builder used finishing nails for barrel pins but left the heads on them. I knocked out a couple of them to get the trigger guard off when the triggers stopped working. Needless to say I had some chips to glue back in.

I wanted to pull the barrel but found one pin entrance hole and sometimes two exit holes ar sharp angles to the entrance holes. I decided the barrel was just fine where it was.

Thank you for replying with a similar situation, first one to do so. As I said in my original post I may have to do this. Thank you again Feamir

 

[feamir]

This is

my bet as well. I've seen a lot of antique rifles done this way. I won't assume this is an actual musket, a lot of people on this forum call all muzzleloaders "muskets".

What is your definition of a musket? This is a reproduction flintlock smoothbore long gun.

 

[feamir]

If the pins are tight into the wood, as they should be, and are rusty... super glue will not work. Super glue needs a clean but rough surface to adhere to metal. Drive em through and use the super glue for the splinters.. as the others have stated. Although if it is hooked or slotted as you suspect you wouldnt have to go through the trouble. Let us know.

Pins are tight, they themselves do no show signs of rust, from the outside. I don't think superglue will work, for the reasons I already stated. Thanks for the support, Feamir

 

[feamir]

I would tape or heavy rubber band wooden blocks to the stock on the off side as close to the probable exit wound as possible. The tape/blocks will stop any major splitting. If you tap the visible end of the pin carefully you should see a wood pimple start to appear where the pin will exit. Mark it, drill it, make new, longer pins.

Great idea to minimize possible damage. If I have to drive them out I will try it. Thanks for the idea, Feamir

 

[feamir]

If you try to drive them through clamp a piece of hardwood to the back side to lessen tear out.

Just like Billy boy's idea. Thanks for the idea, Feamir

 

[feamir]

Talked yourself right out of it didn't you?
Magnet wont work, do the math. different glues have different strengths. it's all about choosing the right one. Jb weld?, epoxy? I guarantee 2 part urethane will work.
Sleeve it.
I'll bet your dentist could get those pins out.
Your a machinist? What size are the pins and how deep are they?
Seems like a really easy problem to solve for a machinist, treat it like broken screw.
Just make sure you formulate your repair plan before you choose a method.
Good luck.

If having experience in a similar situation, and it differs from your suggestion, qualifies as "talking myself out of it" then yes I have.

My degree is in Machine tool technology not electrical engineering, math or physics. I have been in the trade 20 years.
I am always ready to learn new things, so why don't you post the formula (math) which you are talking about so I can learn from you.

You are correct, different adhesives have different qualities.

To sleeve the pin I would have to hollow core drill around it to get a sleeve on it. If I did that why not just grab it and pull it out?

I always try to do as little harm to the piece I am working on, kinda like a doctor " do no harm". A dentist doing an extraction does not care about "minor collateral damage" because tissue heals. Wood does not heal.

Hard to measure the diameter of a pin which is sub flush. Estimating its diameter, using a gage pin on the surface hole, shows it to be about .100". The hole in the stock is about .030" deep. I do not know how long the pins are.

If it were a broken screw, I would either drill into it and use an easy out, or mill the minor diameter out then collapse the threads into the hole. Option # 1 is not practical due to the fact the diameter is so small, and I have never seen an easy out with a diameter that small, and what would be left of the pin would have no structural integrity. Option # 2 assumes the pin is straight and that you have a cutter that diameter and long enough to mill it completely out. Cutters this small generally have a shank diameter of .125" and a total length of about 1 inch. Ordering a custom cutter would be very expensive.

I always try to plan any operation before acting. That is why I created this thread, to see if anyone had faced this problem before, and what they did about it. So far only 1 post is from someone who has faced this problem and I have thanked them for their post.

Thank you, I appreciate the time it took you to post. Feamir

 

[feamir]

Is there a manufacturer's name on this musket? The slotted lug concept bears further investigation.

There is no manufactures name on the gun. Just says "JAPAN". It is almost exactly like another I have which is marked " ultra high". I tried Dane's idea, no luck. Thanks Feamir

 

[Pete G]

Clamp a wooden block on offside and drive the pin through.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

Why is it you need to remove the barrel anyway?

 

[Black Hand]

I tried your suggestion. Did not locate the pins. Thank you Feamir

Can you center-drill and use an easy-out (or something similar)? If they went with a blind hole, there is no telling how deep they drilled. I still believe the "measure carefully, drill small hole and drive out the pins" is probably the best approach causing least amount of damage (especially to the exterior of the stock, where the damage is most visible).

 

[S.Kenton]

Why is it you need to remove the barrel anyway?

In the initial post, he states that he has some concern of corrosion Uber the barrel, which he cannot see. The OP wants to tear the rifle down and inspect it.

 

[feamir]

In the initial post, he states that he has some concern of corrosion Uber the barrel, which he cannot see. The OP wants to tear the rifle down and inspect it.

Hi, thanks for reading all the posts. What does OP stand for? Thanks for your support, Feamir

 

[Black Hand]

Hi, thanks for reading all the posts. What does OP stand for? Thanks for your support, Feamir

OP = Original Post(er)

 

[feamir]

OP = Original Post(er)

Thanks, acronyms are great unless you don't know what they are. I appreciate your reply's, they stay on subject and are informative. Feamir