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Barrel finish

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Thanks tengun. I have considered filing a beveled edge on the gaurd and only partially inletting it. I’m pretty sure that I can increase the inlet for the trigger plate which would give me the clearance needed to inlet the gaurd. I’ll post my progress for those interested. Maybe I’ll find some time to get back at it this week.

My buddy picked me up a bottle of Birchwood Casey plum brown barrel finish at a gun show this weekend.
 
The Plum Brown works great on smaller parts you can put in an ordinary oven, but temperature control on a long barrel is something you need to experiment on or have a plan for. Maybe having 3-4 assistants with their own torches while browning would be a plan.
 
The Plum Brown works great on smaller parts you can put in an ordinary oven, but temperature control on a long barrel is something you need to experiment on or have a plan for. Maybe having 3-4 assistants with their own torches while browning would be a plan.

I was thinking about heating it in my bow oven. Get it up to 275-300, pull it out and coat the barrel. I never did it before or even read the instructions yet but will that work?
 
Just browned with LM solution. You put it on every three hours and four or five coats, wash with bicarbonate ( baking soda) then oil. Other cold browns I’ve used took about a week.
This takes a day. First time I’ve ever used it, got mine from track of the wolf.
 
If you have an oven that can accommodate the length of the barrel that probably would work just fine. Because of my concerns for the above, (and lack of equipment to do so) that's why I've never done it, though I DO like the look of plum browning.

I suppose if I hunted around enough I could find someone somewhere that would let me use their oven. Or, send it to someone to do it for me.
 
I've used both plum brown and LM. The LM. is by far a better way to go on barrels . the birch wood casey plum brown is good for smaller parts . I have done a traditions st. louis barrel with plum brown and one torch . LM. does take days in the winter . But like said in summer or high humidity works within 24 hours. both finishes have their places.
 
I've used both plum brown and LM. The LM. is by far a better way to go on barrels . the birch wood casey plum brown is good for smaller parts . I have done a traditions st. louis barrel with plum brown and one torch . LM. does take days in the winter . But like said in summer or high humidity works within 24 hours. both finishes have their places.
Thanks, I’ll check out LM...what does LM stand for?
 
It does depend on humidity. I live in Missouri, just used it and it worked in one day just this last week. If your in a drier area or low humidity in your house you can hang it a bathroom and steam it up a bit.
 
B. Casey Plum Brown is extremely easy to do- don't get some of the comments on that one. Just follow the directions. 1 person with a simple torch can do it easily. Takes maybe 10- 15 minutes after prep. Certainly no oven required- all of B. Casey products were meant for easy application for hobbyists with little experience or equipment.

Some of the rust browns leave slightly pebbled finish whereas the Plumb Brown is smooth to the touch. While not quite as durable, it's durable enough. I have a Pedersoli that I Plum Browned 15 - 20 years ago and it's just fine.
 
B. Casey Plum Brown is extremely easy to do- don't get some of the comments on that one. Just follow the directions. 1 person with a simple torch can do it easily. Takes maybe 10- 15 minutes after prep. Certainly no oven required- all of B. Casey products were meant for easy application for hobbyists with little experience or equipment.

Some of the rust browns leave slightly pebbled finish whereas the Plumb Brown is smooth to the touch. While not quite as durable, it's durable enough. I have a Pedersoli that I Plum Browned 15 - 20 years ago and it's just fine.

Thanks Alan! I appreciate your comments!
 
I've also used Plum Brown with good success. The biggest thing is to make sure there is no grease or other stuff on the barrel. I use a propane torch and do a section at a time in a continuous process and go back and overlap. Several applications seem to work best for me. Just make sure to not touch with greasy gloves, cloth or hands when doing it.
 
I've also used Plum Brown with good success. The biggest thing is to make sure there is no grease or other stuff on the barrel. I use a propane torch and do a section at a time in a continuous process and go back and overlap. Several applications seem to work best for me. Just make sure to not touch with greasy gloves, cloth or hands when doing it.

Thanks, Jake

Well I have both types now so I can go either way.
 
People using Birchwood Casey Plum Brown need to keep in mind, the metal surfaces have to be heated up to 270°F for it to work right.

If the temperature is much cooler than 250°F the solution will deposite a layer of copper on the surface. If that happens, the copper will have to be sanded off before trying to re-brown it.

If the temperature is much hotter than 290°F, the solution will boil off leaving a ugly blob on the metal.

Also, the fumes given off by this stuff shouldn't be breathed so it should be done out doors or under a powerful ventilator.
 
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