BarreL cleaning

[Captndan]

I have read that a little Murphy’s Oil soap in the scrub water will prevent rust on parts. What about using Murphy’s as a final mop of the barrel?

 

[HiDesertHunter]

What about using Murphy’s as a final mop of the barrel?

I would not as MOS contains propylene glycol which absorbs water.

Now, MOS and Windex mixed 50/50 makes a great temporary barrel swab for a quick cleaning between X amounts of shots but I wouldn't leave MOS inside a barrel.

 

[Carbon 6]

I have read that a little Murphy’s Oil soap in the scrub water will prevent rust on parts. What about using Murphy’s as a final mop of the barrel?

Where on earth did you read that ?

I would not as MOS contains propylene glycol which absorbs water .

On the whole, You are both incorrect. However, there is partial truth in some of what is said.

 

[Captndan]

Read it on one of the re-enactors U tubes. What then do you recommend? Thanks

 

[HiDesertHunter]

I spray my shotgun barrel mops with Rem Oil and swab my barrel as my 'final', storage mop of the barrel after cleaning, rinsing and drying.

 

[Carbon 6]

Read it on one of the re-enactors U tubes. What then do you recommend? Thanks

Murphy's oil soap in many different concoctions works great for cleaning. Use the Original concentrated formula. Murphy's oil soap does not contain any Propylene glycol or propane-1,2-diol, this is according to the manufacture not some Yahoo on YouTube.


Use a rust preventative after cleaning no matter what..

 

[Carbon 6]

I have read that a little Murphy’s Oil soap in the scrub water will prevent rust on parts.

I think what is confused here is the soaps ability to neutralize the PH. Neutralizing the PH does help inhibit corrosion, but does not offer long term protection.

 

[user 48679]

I would use moose milk (T/C Bore Cleaner) followed by a lube, and have done with it - just like what I've been doing successfully since the mid-1980's.

 

[Carbon 6]

Everyone has an opinion on what to use when it comes to cleaning.
Use the search function and you can look up thousands of variations.
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/search/

 

[Grenadier1758]

Read it on one of the re-enactors U tubes. What then do you recommend? Thanks

I recommend the Birchwood Casey product, Barricade.

I associate with a lot of reenactors. Worst maintainers of their firearms I ever ran across other than those who shoot Pyrodex and never clean up.

 

[wb78963]

My general purpose cleaner/lubricant is Ballistol and water mixed 1:10 using distilled water. That is all I clean my guns with and I have not had a speck of rust on anything even guns that were in storage for a year. Water dissolves and washes away the fouling BP or sub and the Ballistol leaves the surface lightly oiled.
Since I shoot some almost daily ( retired with a range in my back yard) it is imperative to have a fast, easy and efficient system.
Works for me should work for you. The best easily obtained solvent for BP/Sub residue is plain room temperature water.
Mix in it what you like, but my money is on Ballistol.
Respectfully
Bunk

 

[Carbon 6]

Water dissolves and washes away the fouling BP or sub and the Ballistol leaves the surface lightly oiled.

It also does one more thing that is often overlooked, something that you will find true in any successful cleaner.

 

[wb78963]

OK Carbon 6
What else does it do? Since that is my number one black powder cleaner I really want to know.
Bunk

 

[Carbon 6]

Same as this.

I think what is confused here is the soaps ability to neutralize the PH. Neutralizing the PH does help inhibit corrosion, but does not offer long term protection.

The ammonium oleate in Ballistol helps neutralize the PH.

 

[Carbon 6]

Unless there is one I have forgotten, every successful cleaning regime must contain 3 things.

1. solvent

2. PH adjustment

3. protectant.

 

[firestick]

Everyone has an opinion on what to use when it comes to cleaning.
Use the search function and you can look up thousands of variations.
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/search/

Best advice I've seen today in print or internet. I may add "then use what you find that works for you".

 

[sussexmuzllodr]

Brass brush, hot water, Dawn Dish Liquid, followed by drying, and motor oil. I prefer to shoot more than worry about simple things like clean up

 

[Bledfor Days]

G-96 for storage. Lots of it.

 

[Daryl Crawford]

I use water to scrub the barrel, dry patches, ballistol patches, dry patches and then olive oil/bee's wax to finish. Works for me.

 

[Bad Karma]

I use water and Eezox mostly. Well, Eezox always, but the solvent varies.
I've used Hoppes BP solvent, CVA stuff, homemade “moose milk“ (tapping fluid and water) soap and water, t/c number 13, (smells nice) windex, olive oil, olive oil and beeswa mix, jojoba oil, plain hot water, cold water, and I’m sure I’ve forgotten others. They all worked to one degree or another, most anything water based is fine.
Protecting the metal after the black powder fouling is removed is the most important part of the process IMO.. I’ve not found anything better than Eezox to date, it works and dries to a non oily film.