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Barrel Channels.

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Lots of ways to do that chore. Here is what I do: If the barrel is parallel, tapered or swamp, I take out the most I can with a router. Parallel you can totally fit with the router. (less tang of course) Taper takes more passes with a totally different set up because the cut is tapered left to right as well as up and down. Swamp, I route the thinnest dimension of the barrel full length and then hog the rest out with chisel and scraper. Never did octagon to round.
Larry
 
Lots of ways to do that chore. Here is what I do: If the barrel is parallel, tapered or swamp, I take out the most I can with a router. Parallel you can totally fit with the router. (less tang of course) Taper takes more passes with a totally different set up because the cut is tapered left to right as well as up and down. Swamp, I route the thinnest dimension of the barrel full length and then hog the rest out with chisel and scraper. Never did octagon to round.
Larry

Swamped barrels would have to be the biggest PIA part of inletting a stock.
I have two guns with swamped barrels, and will only buy long guns with one if possible.
 
I use a cutter that I made in my Bridgeport mill Tapered or swamped), or a molding head in my my cabinet saw (straight channels)
 
I clamp the barrel on the flat planed stock. Then I glue with cheap school glue two “ runners” or rails, down each side of the barrel. Held with clamps to fit the barrel contour closely. Let dry for a few days, then cut a groove inside the rails with my handsaw with no set in the teeth. When that’s done, I chisel off the wooden rails , then carefully use my router to remove the bulk of the wood. Finish up with gouges by hand. I hope this makes sense....
 
I’ve done it on a table saw for a straight barrel. Keep moving the fence and make a few cuts to get rid of most of the wood, then finish with chisels. Carefully - especially near the breech end!
 
I used Peter Alexander's suggested method from his informative book, "The Gunsmith of Grenville County". It was my first barrel inletting, and swamped. But I surprisingly enjoyed the painstaking process, and it turned out well. It is too detailed for my poor typing skills, but his book is very helpful in all aspects.
 
I clamp the barrel on the flat planed stock. Then I glue with cheap school glue two “ runners” or rails, down each side of the barrel. Held with clamps to fit the barrel contour closely. Let dry for a few days, then cut a groove inside the rails with my handsaw with no set in the teeth. When that’s done, I chisel off the wooden rails , then carefully use my router to remove the bulk of the wood. Finish up with gouges by hand. I hope this makes sense....
Are you referring to swamp or taper barrels? Are you referring to parallel barrels?
 
Power tools and barrel channels! A risky combination for the new builder. :ghostly:
I disagree! Not all newbie gun builders are inexperienced power tool people. If a builder has power tool expertise and no gun building experience, the barrel channel is a cakewalk. I am not referring to swamps.
 
I'll add this from experience.

If you are going to rout barrel channels, do your setup carefully and plan to leave some meat all around to be dealt with by hand tools. After doing a few you will have a clear idea of your limitations.

EDIT: Larry, we were typing at the same time. And, I don't disagree with you at all. I am more trying to advise the newbies which I was at first and still am compared to experienced tool guys. 🔧 😀
 
For you folks who do rout your barrel channels, a how to post would be very beneficial to our members. 😀
 
I'm probably the only one to do it the way I do. I made a long wood clamp, vise with rails/template, And a plain old router with a 45 degree bit. The bit goes down far enough to create a straight side and at the bottom, "back and forth" to create that flat. Cut out some fake stocks from a 2x4 and first practice on them until you feel confident.
So...the set up: a clamp as long as the barrel channel with a template on top ALL THAT in turn secured with more clamps, and a router.

The better way- probably a router table and guide and do it up side down.
 
I cut a trough in a 2x4 and place my barrel in the body putty lined trough to make a pattern of the bottom and sides of the barrel. I mount that to my copy machine along with a stock blank and use a stylus and router to make the channel just like the barrel impression. Sometimes I will also inlet with the breech plug formed and in. Just a little squaring up at the back of tang that the router can't do.
 
Where do you get a stylus? I visited Harper's Fery a couple of years ago and they had something like that to make stocks.
 

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