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ball size
- Thread starter SPQR70AD
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No, just slightly harder to cut the ring. Once the ring is cut should slide right in just as the 454. Slightly heavier, little more punch, little more recoil. Probably wont notice a difference other than when you cut the ring if at all.
thanks for reply that is what I figured I just like to hear from the guys here and all their experience
If the 457 rams without a heap of force the only thing added would be a longer surface to engage the bore.
Thing to do is measure the bore max and the cylinder bore. Sometimes the cylinder bore is not the bore +.001/002. Have seen it be slight minus. All inquiries to manufactures reply, these firearms are "just reproductions." In other words just for looks and making noise.
This issue is a random problem. Not all come out of factory this way. I only have one that I had to ream the cylinder bores but it did make a difference.
The 44 cylinder bore should be .449.
Thing to do is measure the bore max and the cylinder bore. Sometimes the cylinder bore is not the bore +.001/002. Have seen it be slight minus. All inquiries to manufactures reply, these firearms are "just reproductions." In other words just for looks and making noise.
This issue is a random problem. Not all come out of factory this way. I only have one that I had to ream the cylinder bores but it did make a difference.
The 44 cylinder bore should be .449.
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It seems the .457's are mostly for the Ruger Old Army but if they work in your gun , roll with it.
.457-.460 conicals are very hard to seat in my Dragoon but .454's slide right in while still shaving a lead ring. Also you may encounter variance for each chamber like was said, I have a "tight" chamber.
.457-.460 conicals are very hard to seat in my Dragoon but .454's slide right in while still shaving a lead ring. Also you may encounter variance for each chamber like was said, I have a "tight" chamber.
Eutycus
Cannon
Wouldn't that added "oomph" needed to seat a .457 be just that much more wear + tear on the frame? If a .454 (or even a .451) leaves a ring that's really all thats needed isn't it?
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In my opinion if you're getting a complete ring you're good.
I even bought a cheap .454 sizer for my conicals after having to use the wood rail at the range to push the loading plunger down on a .460 bullet.
I even bought a cheap .454 sizer for my conicals after having to use the wood rail at the range to push the loading plunger down on a .460 bullet.
Cylinder bore being +.001-.002 minimum above barrel bore max is the ball diameter dictator. Some are so under barrel bore max that the ball, for all practical purposes, mostly skips over the lands. My Walker was that way. The bore max is .445 and shot right 6-7 inches. Opened the cylinder bore to tight .451, dressed the crown, bit more angle in the cone and polish and now dead on vertical line. The 1858s seem to be more consistant in manufacture in that the barrel bore run consistant at .440-.442 and cylinder bore at .449.
My colt Pietta 36 rams a .375 very easy so I use .380. Tells me the cylinder bore is good. Plus it's accurate. More accurate than with .375. The .380 adds just the right increase in contact surface to the barrel. The .375 contact surface was minimal and most likely skipping.
