• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades

Baker rifle build question

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Thanks,

That helps. I will examine what I have and probably make a new trigger plate that fits the stock.

Regards,
Scot
 
Thanks for all the responses. I am now at the point where I am trying to file down the "tang" section casting to match the barrel contours. Tried gluing the pieces together with a 2 part epoxy. Did not work. Other than wedging, is there a glue that will work for this purpose. Needs to keep the part in place, and yet once done filing, to be reasonably removable.
 
Well the super glue worked well. Inletted the barrel assembly. Couple of dumb questions:

The barrel wedges have a slit through the length of them. What is its purpose? To provide friction and the ability to widen should wedge get loose?

I presume the slit should not be open ended?

Thanks
 
Well the super glue worked well. Inletted the barrel assembly. Couple of dumb questions:

The barrel wedges have a slit through the length of them. What is its purpose? To provide friction and the ability to widen should wedge get loose?

I presume the slit should not be open ended?

Thanks
Well It;s Not a' wedge' its called a key & the slot is to allow as small pin to be nailed into the slot so that it wont come out & be lost .Allow the pin to just miss the end of the key lest it impede the ' loop' it slides through . .Compliments of the Baker makeing Season.
Rudyard
 
Rudyard, I guess I am slow today. Don't understand where the pin is located. Can you clarify please?
 
Hi Frod,
The pin goes vertically in the barrel channel and through that slot such that when the barrel key is pulled out sufficient to release the barrel. the pin prevents the key from coming all the way out and potentially being lost. Keep in mind, the keys are installed always from the left (sideplate) side of the stock so the heads are on that side. Therefore the pin is located on the left side of the barrel channel sufficiently close to the side wall of the channel so the key can be pulled out far enough to clear the barrel lug.

dave
 
Rudyard, I guess I am slow today. Don't understand where the pin is located. Can you clarify please?
There you are Dave's onto it only ide call the lugs' loops' same difference .Do'se take some care to get the slots cut just nice .
Regards to you both Rudyard
 
Dave, Thanks much, that makes perfect sense, and clever too. Now to coordinating the fitting of trigger plate, trigger guard, thumb piece, barrel tang, and ramrod spring. Enjoying the build, and thanks for the help!!
 
Dumb Baker rifle question of the day:

Regarding the catch for the patchbox; is it supposed to catch the front of the square hole in the patchbox, or the rear? Looking on line at originals, it appears it could be either way as some originals did both. Could be done either way.
 
Dumb Baker rifle question of the day:

Regarding the catch for the patchbox; is it supposed to catch the front of the square hole in the patchbox, or the rear? Looking on line at originals, it appears it could be either way as some originals did both. Could be done either way.
Any progress pictures?
 
Hi,
Think about how you would use it. The easiest way is with the rifle in your left hand (assuming you are shooting right handed), you put your index finger under the tab on the lid and with the thumb, pinch the spring toward the butt plate to release it. It would be much more awkward if you had to push it forward.

dave
 
Greetings. Getting closer to final assembly, finishing of TRS Baker. A question: How thick should the wood be on either side of the barrel channel at the top where it meets the barrel? I know British fowlers were quite thin there, but i suspect a military gun would be more stout.I have extra wood there and wondering how thin/thick it should be. Thanks
 
Hi,
Taper or feather the sides of the barrel channel right to the barrel then when everything is done shaping the forestock, take 220 grit sandpaper backed by a 3-4 inch long flat wooden block and sand the top of the barrel channel walls lightly, probably just a couple of long swipes needed to create a tiny flat and that should be about right. The British did not really start bulking up their fore stocks until they adopted barrel bands. Go to the link below and you can see how the stock is "rolled" into the barrel with a hint of a flat on top,
https://collections.royalarmouries.org/object/rac-object-9175.html
Look at originals, ignore internet images of the modern commercial repros.

dave
 
Back
Top