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user 43911

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Happy to say I just purchased the gun in the link below, I hope it arrives safe.

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/lancaster-smoothbore-barn-gun.148435/
In the pictures the gun looks great to me, I had been all over the map of late wanting a flint gun and leaning to smoothbore, now worry about twist rate, I like the ammo flexibility (birdshot, buckshot, single ball) , easier cleaning.
I had a new Pedersoli Indian Trade Gun a few years ago that I never shot, I believe this one should be as good and will be used.
After checking my powder I'll need to order some as I only have 1/2lb of 3f, 1lb of 4f and 1lb of 1 1/2f.
 
Sounds just lovely, and look forward to your posts when you have her in hand. For what it is worth, I had a Miroku Bess a while back that went off every time using FFg priming from the paper cartridges that I made. I'm not sure I will ever bother with FFFFg for priming again.
Darn right, 4f is way to good to be wasted in a pan 👍🏻
 
I had been keeping an eye on that gun for a while. If another smoothbore 20 gauge didn't fall in my lap I may have purchased it. Good used smoothbore flintlocks can be hard to find. I think you got a good one there. Kinda surprised it didn't sell sooner, I think the lack of a but plate scared a lot of folks away. Personally I really like the simplicity and utilitarian design of barn guns and I'm not saying that they can't be nice to look at because I think they are beautiful. Looking forward to hearing about it once it arrives. Congrats!
 
I had been keeping an eye on that gun for a while. If another smoothbore 20 gauge didn't fall in my lap I may have purchased it. Good used smoothbore flintlocks can be hard to find. I think you got a good one there. Kinda surprised it didn't sell sooner, I think the lack of a but plate scared a lot of folks away. Personally I really like the simplicity and utilitarian design of barn guns and I'm not saying that they can't be nice to look at because I think they are beautiful. Looking forward to hearing about it once it arrives. Congrats!
After your post I went back and looked at the date the thread started, I had no idea it was first listed last June, I only noticed it last night because it was at the top of the list as somebody had asked if it was still available, thanks to that person. This would indicate that it's worth going through 5 or 6 pages on the guns for sale page.
With regard to no butt plate, I'm good with it, it's correct. I had a high end 28 gauge side by side that had a well fitted dark hardwood plate (no metal or plastic) and it was still perfect when I sold it. I think you are right as to people being scared off and I'm thankful for that, a metal plate could always be added if needed but I hope never needed as I like what it is.
 
I assume Rick built this rifle and, if it is anything like the Fowler he built for me, I think you’ll be very pleased with it! Out of all my flintlocks, and some were twice as expensive, his is my favorite.

Congrats Amigo!

The real celebration tho starts when there is a long box on the front porch :)
 
I'll start with .600 ball loads and then get onto #8 shot loads of 7/8 and 1 oz , I have an old Ideal-Lyman powder and shot scoop/measure with powder in drams and shot in Oz.
 
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Picture of Ideal/Lyman measure, inside of cup twists and pulls out for more powder or shot, 70 grain powder measure (horn tip), brush (horse hair) and iron pick.
I'm sure everyone has this stuff but I had forgotten about them until a couple of weeks ago, in a box.
 

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My new to me gun came in the mail yesterday (intact) , if I get a chance I will start load work up this weekend, I hope for range use the measure I have (picture above) works out, with inner cup full down it measures 7/8 oz of number 8 or 7 1/2's shot and measures 2 1/2 Drams of 3f powder. The same 2 1/2 Dram measure of powder for patched .600 RB, I like to use 3/8" thick fiber wad over powder then patched ball. Shot load to start with will be powder, 1/2" fiber wad, shot and toped with 1/16" card but it's a start point as this gun may not like the load at all.
 
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Happy to say I just purchased the gun in the link below, I hope it arrives safe.

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/lancaster-smoothbore-barn-gun.148435/
In the pictures the gun looks great to me, I had been all over the map of late wanting a flint gun and leaning to smoothbore, now worry about twist rate, I like the ammo flexibility (birdshot, buckshot, single ball) , easier cleaning.
I had a new Pedersoli Indian Trade Gun a few years ago that I never shot, I believe this one should be as good and will be used.
After checking my powder I'll need to order some as I only have 1/2lb of 3f, 1lb of 4f and 1lb of 1 1/2f.
The musket looks great to me. He did a nice job on it. We have a saying in the Marine Corps, "It's not the dope on the gun, it's the dope behind it". Meaning the gun's only as good as the guy shooting it. Good Luck, looks like you got a good deal. Semper Fi.
 
The musket looks great to me. He did a nice job on it. We have a saying in the Marine Corps, "It's not the dope on the gun, it's the dope behind it". Meaning the gun's only as good as the guy shooting it. Good Luck, looks like you got a good deal. Semper Fi.
And each gun is different, the load I'm starting with may not be the guns best load.
 
Sounds just lovely, and look forward to your posts when you have her in hand. For what it is worth, I had a Miroku Bess a while back that went off every time using FFg priming from the paper cartridges that I made. I'm not sure I will ever bother with FFFFg for priming again.
I agree, I always use the same powder in the pan as is in the barrel. Never used 4F. Never had an issue touching off. Semper Fi.
 
I know many are against it, but I put a rear sight on my octagon to rounds. Vastly improves accuracy. Semper Fi.
I'm good without the rear sight, shoot like a shotgun, eyes on the target let your peripheral view pick up the guns location relevant to the target but a hard focus remains on the target .
Cheek weld is key and some shooters may have a problem with a given gun because it does not fit them, cheek weld determines the location of your rear sight THE EYE. If your face is floating around above the stock no two sight pictures will be the same, poor accuracy is the result.
 
Not sure what to do with the gun, looks like a welded seam running the full length of the barrel,
two lines very straight about 30 thou apart only visible on the inside.
 
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